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Are you ready for a real weird one? Random NO spark from a MP electronic ignition system despite numerous parts swapped around...

Brussel Sprouts were never intended as food... They are supposed to be used as biodegradable ammo in a wrist rocket sling shot... They are not food, but they can help you hunt for food...

BTW how is your skin doing? :rofl:
But they (Brussel sprouts) are excellent "gas" generators.....add them to the list of beans, eggs, beer, cabbage....great weapons if one is contemplating war......they add an orange-yellow tone to the purplish green cloud that follows you all day.......eat at your own risk......
BOB RENTON
 
BTW how is your skin doing? :rofl:
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Well, I hope that it is. I found no smoking gun, just some slight corrosion/crud on the spades and sockets in the bulkhead connector. Time will tell.
55 year old wiring, what could go wrong :lol:

I bought new harnesses for the Coronet Convertible. The corrosion in the bulkhead connect for the headlight circuit caused the crimp to heat up and become loose. Headlights would work for a few minutes, the contact crimp would heat up and loose connection.

Inspect the bulkhead connector and plugs for signs of melting too.

When we put the Ron Francis wiring in Mikes '69 Coronet, I re-used and re-pinned the bulkhead connector. Had to replace one or two of the plugs going to the bulkhead connectors because of melted cavities. I think alternator connection (Engine harness / middle connector) and Blower motor or wipers on the top connector were melted.

I haven't touched or inspected the '71 Charger bulkhead. It might be on borrowed time?
 
I rarely get simple problems to post about. I get the weird ones that test my skills and patience.
This car:

View attachment 1633388

Has a 440 based 493 with mostly aftermarket stuff on it. It was a 318 model so when I did my first 440 swap to it in 2001, I converted it to the then popular Mopar Performance electronic conversion kit. The distributors they used for this were physically similar to the stock electronic distributors from the outside but had Mallory internals scaled down to fit a Chrysler housing. Smaller advance weights, lighter springs and generally not that great. They get spark scatter, unstable timing and can cause erratic idle issues. I worked though most of that so this one performs okay.
Here is the ongoing issue that I've encountered several times since around 2012, giver or take:
It could be a cold start or a warm restart....I get no spark. None. I touched nothing, I moved nothing, it just started and ran normally moments or days earlier and now it spins and won't fire. Sometimes I've changed the ECM and it starts fine immediately afterwards so I blamed the ECM since we all know the spotty reliability of the Orange box...

View attachment 1633389

Once I was at the Sacramento Autorama on display and it was the day to take our cars and leave. No spark, no tools, no spare parts. I twisted connections, wiggled wires and cussed a lot. Nothing helped. About an hour of screwing around, then I sat inside and tried again and BOOM, it fired up like normal.

Weeks afterward, a car club member offered to help me rewire the engine side to avoid future NO start issues. It started fine before he worked his magic. Afterwards I had the NO spark again along with some funky headlight door reactions. (That I figured out some 10 years later when I installed the CrackedBack headlight relays!) I gave up and ordered a new harness from Evans.

Randomly over the years, it has happened, almost every time here at home, thank the Lord for that at least. I've tried bypassing the ignition switch with a spare one attached from under the dash. No change, still NO spark.
I've tried Ether/Starting fluid with mixed results. Sometimes it fires up immediately but I wonder if that was just how the damned thing is....maybe the ether spray made no difference and it was going to start when it was ready no matter what.

In 2017 I wanted to weigh the car and I had to get home (In my work truck) in time to get the Charger to the scales. One time it stalled without reason at an intersection and after trying a new coil then ECM, it fired up. The next day, It stalled in my driveway and putting the previous coil back in allowed it to start.
Yeah...It has been musical chairs with parts.
A couple of weeks ago I was tinkering with the A/C and pulled the low pressure switch. The car stalled and shut off. NO spark again. Why? What the heck does the low pressure switch have to do with the ignition wiring? I swapped in another ECM and it started up.

It feels as if I'm on the receiving end of some voodoo curse, like some "force" is watching me and selecting specific parts to conk out and stall the car, then just allowing it to start up again. Yeah, I know that is impossible, it just seems really strange.

I've adjusted the distributor air gap as per the FSM and other publications. .008 set with a brass feeler gage.
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EDIT:
Sometimes it will feel like it wants to start as I turn the key back to LOCK.
Poor grounds will always keep you chasing your tail. Ask me how I know.
30% of all troubleshooting my equipment in the Navy led to spotty grounds.
 
I just thought I'd post an update to this.
I swapped in a distributor sold by Rick Ehrenberg. It is known as the Hi Rev 7500. It looks like a stock Mopar electronic unit. I put an FBO plate in it to limit the timing advance to 14 degrees but it ended up with 15. I have the initial set to 20 and it stops advancing at 35. This is actually just fine. It starts advancing right off of idle.
It starts faster. It runs smoother. It has started every time I have turned the key. I went on a 900+ mile road trip and it was flawless.
Score!
 
And going through your bulkhead connectors

Which might have been your no start intermittent issue all along

Time shall tell


Peace
 
I just thought I'd post an update to this.
I swapped in a distributor sold by Rick Ehrenberg. It is known as the Hi Rev 7500. It looks like a stock Mopar electronic unit. I put an FBO plate in it to limit the timing advance to 14 degrees but it ended up with 15. I have the initial set to 20 and it stops advancing at 35. This is actually just fine. It starts advancing right off of idle.
It starts faster. It runs smoother. It has started every time I have turned the key. I went on a 900+ mile road trip and it was flawless.
Score!
Mega great news and great product info.
 
I just thought I'd post an update to this.
I swapped in a distributor sold by Rick Ehrenberg. It is known as the Hi Rev 7500. It looks like a stock Mopar electronic unit. I put an FBO plate in it to limit the timing advance to 14 degrees but it ended up with 15. I have the initial set to 20 and it stops advancing at 35. This is actually just fine. It starts advancing right off of idle.
It starts faster. It runs smoother. It has started every time I have turned the key. I went on a 900+ mile road trip and it was flawless.
Score!
But what was the tire pressure during the tests. The pressure must be within 0.05 lbs front to back differrnce. One degree (1° +/-) will make no difference.....must be a perceived difference rather than a physical difference possibly due to air density or temperature or fuel distribution.....??....or the "seat of the pants" measurement......just curious.....
BOB RENTON
 
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Just when you think that you have a situation solved….

5C6C533F-15E7-4546-8E9F-B1BE7861A3C4.jpeg


I have to state that at least when you have a shiny car on a trailer, people think you’re going to a car show.

2B30DF5F-C008-4DD0-B58C-2085DC1DCA1D.jpeg


Months have gone by with not one instance of no-spark.
Today I had her out and after rapping it up to 6000 in 1st gear, it started to stumble then shut down. I thought I was out of gas but the accelerator pump shot was strong.
It cranked fast but almost in an instant, slowed way down.
The wife came out, I went back for tools and parts.
Nothing helped. At times it acted like it wanted to start as I released the key. This symptom occurs with other cars I’ve had and I’ve yet to determine what causes it. No, it isn’t the ignition switch. I’ve tried a spare numerous times. The battery was down to 12.1 volts so I used the Hulkman charge box. It still cranked slow as if the extra reserve power meant nothing.
I’ll report more as I get deeper into it.
 
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Just when you think that you have a situation solved….

View attachment 1701117

I have to state that at least when you have a shiny car on a trailer, people think you’re going to a car show.

View attachment 1701119

Months have gone by with not one instance of no-spark.
Today I had her out and after rapping it up to 6000 in 1st gear, it started to stumble then shut down. I thought I was out of gas but the accelerator pump shot was strong.
It cranked fast but almost in an instant, slowed way down.
The wife came out, I went back for tools and parts.
Nothing helped. At times it acted like it wanted to start as I released the key. This symptom occurs with other cars I’ve had and I’ve yet to determine what causes it. No, it isn’t the ignition switch. I’ve tried a spare numerous times. The battery was down to 12.1 bolts so I used the Hulkman charge box. It still cranked slow as if the extra reserve power meant nothing.
I’ll report more as I get deeper into it.
No reason to hit the like button. Sucks chasing electric demon.
 
Did you blow it up at 6000 RPMs

First thing your going to do is have someone crank it over in the start position while you put a volt meter on the positive side of coil , you should have full battery voltage

If you do not have full battery voltage , then the volt meter goes back to the ballast resistor looking for full battery voltage , then back to your bulkhead connection , then to ignition switch

If it is trying to start as you release the key back to the run position , you are getting voltage only in the run position

But I am sure you have been told that a million times
 
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Man, that sucks. At least you have your own trailer so the car isnt on the Flatbed Ride of Shame.
With all the new parts you've added the problem seems to circle back to wiring or connectors.
 
Did you blow it up at 6000 RPMs

First thing your going to do is have someone crank it over in the start position while you put a volt meter on the positive side of coil , you should have full battery voltage

If it is trying to start as you release the key back to the run position , you are getting voltage only in the run position

But I am sure you have been told that a million times

I readily admit, I am not great with electrical issues.
No, I didn’t blow it up. All the oil is inside and clean. No holes in the side of the block or pan. This is the first time I’ve had the no spark Happen while driving. It usually happens when trying to start the car.
 
I readily admit, I am not great with electrical issues.
No, I didn’t blow it up. All the oil is inside and clean. No holes in the side of the block or pan. This is the first time I’ve had the no spark Happen while driving. It usually happens when trying to start the car.
Is the the distributor turning?
Voltage at coil when cranking?

Check for voltage at the coil with a incandescent test lamp when cranking.
 
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