AWB mod / alignment / wall thickness.

[shopguy]

65 Coronet; doing the "mopar" factory 65 front AWB conversion.

1) What is the best way to maintain the front inner shock mount alignment when moving them forward 10" on the new 2x3?

2) What is the wall thickness of the new 2x3 stock?

3) What is the best route to get the "longer" T-bars (source? size? mods?)

- - Still trying to figure out if we can get this done in our school shop - -
IF not....ithe front may be subb'ed out

 

[CUDACOLLINS]

Very good questions. Hope you get some responses. I'm going to do a '65 Belvedere in the near future. So I'll be watching this thread. If I remember right, someone is selling the torsion bars..but can't remember who. What I've been wondering about is the steering arm..But I do believe someone is manufacturing these items. If I find out for sure I'll post it here...I know there is a couple shops building these cars completely done.

 

[Southernman]

AWB Modifications...

Hey Shopguy, I see you're looking for info on the AWB mods. I've done a few over the years and have some pics I can upload so you can see just how extensive this process is. All I can say is, "be absolutely certain this is the route you want to go" as it's no small feat. And it is irreversible. I think the old Mopars just look right after this modification.

On your question about shock towers, Do not remove the original towers (completely) until you've used them as a reference for the newly installed towers. This permits you to measure from the original shock towers to position your new towers. Also, I recommend you source all of the parts you need from a donor car: The shock towers, the K-member nut plates and bolts, the upper (inner) fender panel brace, bump stops, torsion bars, and (I used) a later model K-member.

The frame segment where you attach the new shock tower does not have the same slope as the original, so don't forget to remove 1/2" from your measurement to ensure you have enough caster adjustment. Failure to do so will mean you get to do it over again. Ask me how I know...

You will also require an aftermarket oil pan (one of your other questions), since no Mopar or aftermarket will clear the tie rod. Of course, I later went with an O'Rielly front suspension and that opened a whole new set of issues - and expense...

While I had the car apart, I also removed the excessive "bump" in the firewall, and slicked it.

Here's a few shots from an old 65 Dodge Coronet Wagon I did the mods on.

Enjoy, and like I said above, it's an intense project even for the most seasoned rodder.

Dave

 

[Southernman]

Firm Feel makes the 10 over torsion bars. $500 a pop and they only make them when they receive enough orders to justify running them.

 

[Howie]

you will need a rear sump oil pan. I will get you all the pics and dimensions by the 1st of july and have a package sent to you of my altercation
Howard

 

[moparstuart]

you will need a rear sump oil pan. I will get you all the pics and dimensions by the 1st of july and have a package sent to you of my altercation
Howard

awesome

 

[Southernman]

Altered Wheelbase Modifications...

Here's a few pics of my 'approach' to altering the front wheelbase on these cars. Please note, I did not use the 2X3 stub-ins, because they produce a nose up rake; do not look like a factory job when completed; they require much more sheetmetal and frame work to complete; and driving a car with the nose up gets old real quick.

Using the stock frame for the mods provides the cleanest results; saves a ton of sheetmetal and frame work; looks like it could have came from the factory that way, and the slight nose down rake makes it comfortable to drive.

If you want additional photos I can send you a few, but you should consider getting all of your donor parts together before you start.

Dave in Raleigh, NC

 

[CUDACOLLINS]

Nice work Southerman !!! Wow!! Looks great. Did you fabricate the steering shaft ?