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Axle seal issues

Green bearings require no seal.
Doug
With just an o-ring on the OD of the bearing, I like to use the stock type axle seals.

A bent or warped rear end tube will also eat seals and bearings.
I would think if the housing was bent bad enough to take out the seals, it would also take out other parts.
 
Yeah I doubt the tubes are bent. I just think I need to set the end play. What exactly is the tolerance?
 
Green bearings need no seals!
Don't have any on mine and they don't leak.
 
I'm not using green bearings.
Do I need the button spacer to adjust end play? I did change from an open diff to a sure grip. I actually just thought of this...
 
I replaced the inner seals twice, still leaking, now after I went through many threads and gathered info, I will replace it for the third time.
What I noticed the most about installing the seals are:
1- The ID of the seal must be close to the OD of the axle where the seal rides or position.
2- The end play adjustment.
3- The way of installing the seal (use the proper drive tool) which is not avail with most of us but try to be close like using a close Dia socket.
Good luck
 
Or buy a seal driver. Also dont rest the axle on the seal during installation. It distorts the seal.
 
I'm not using green bearings.
Do I need the button spacer to adjust end play? I did change from an open diff to a sure grip. I actually just thought of this...

Yes, you do need the spacer in the differential to set end play.
 
I have knocked the seals in too far in the past. It seems that on some units there is no definite step machined into the housing ends, just a taper, so watch it there. Also I've had better luck on getting the bearings set when I've made several laps going side to side on rapping the axles with a mallet and checking/setting endplay on them. I found that if I only did it once without re-checks, they loosened up quite a bit because you were not working all the taper slack out.
 
The thin metal and foam gaskets arrived, took the axles out, removed the inner seal, found some nicks and scratches at the bottom of the axle housing where the leak come from. Here are 2 pics of the RH axle, the other side is the same.
I used the PC11 mix, smear it on the bottom, put the seal in, tapped it with a rubber hummer head gently til it bottomed.
This is the RH side where the adjuster located. I fond the axle end play way out(all the way open) not like when I adjust it last time I put the seal in (.013"-.023").
I also found there is no adjuster lock, may be that's why the end play is off.
So I believe I have to buy the lock before I can drive the car.

2.jpg 5.jpg
 
I used it last time I replaced the seals, was hard to remove.:fool:
 
I do have one, I could not remove the seal with, it removes the rubber seals easily. The rear seals are of 2 types, metal (the OEM) and the hardened plastic (after market).
One of the seals was easy to remove, I knocked it on the upper side and it flipped over.
 
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I bought the lock from eBay, I have to wait another week or so, then I will install it and post an update.

s-l500.jpg
 
I have always put a very thin coat of red rtv on the outside diameter of the inner seals before install. I also always use inside seals when using the green bearings for the extra insurance against leaks.
 
You still have to use the same axle seals if you use green bearings.
A lot of people do not use the stock seal with the Green bearings but it doesn't hurt to go ahead and use them anyways.
 
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