Backyard find 1970 Charger DIY Build
- Thread starter lochenjons
- Start date
69roadr
Well-Known Member
I call it peg leg, must have been born a small block. Sweet car nonetheless.
Love the work in progress.
Derwud
Well-Known Member
Awesome work..
lochenjons
Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone ! Got the trunk key made and opened the trunk. Nothing but rat turds everywhere. Got rid of the rat turds. Put the car up on jack stands and now the real fun starts! Going to do everything section by section, bit by bit, and piece by piece so I don't get too overwhelmed and over ambitious. I let the brake lines drain over night so they should be nice and empty today. Starting with the front brakes and lines and working my way back. Rear diff is going to be last because of the leaky pinion seal I don't want to put that in the car and have it leak everywhere.
Derwud
Well-Known Member
Looks Familiar: but you have a great plan, maybe you can make the Spring Fling down south.
lochenjons
Well-Known Member
That would be cool, not sure it's going to happen this spring but who knows !
Made some progress today. Ripped out the nasty trunk carpet that was infested with petrified rat turds... I almost puked a couple times.
Trunk looks to be semi-ok... I'll have to clean it up to find out.
8.25 out! 8.75 waiting for her day to come! Leaf springs, shocks, shackles, and perches out. Wire wheeled all of them (minus the shocks) and painted them.
Progress. I'm off to tahoe tomorrow so this is how she's going to be for a little bit.
lochenjons
Well-Known Member
Got the fuel tank out today... and I underestimated the amount of fuel still in the tank. Oh well, I'll just use it for dirtbike fuel. Holes in the trunk pan ! I'm dreading replacing it because I don't know how to weld. Guess it's time to learn.
Liking your progress. Welding's not that hard, you'll be fine.
68Moparmaniac
Well-Known Member
Another GM guy turning away from the dark side... Welcome to the Mopar family
Picked a good one to start with, did you wear a mask when you stole that? lol
lochenjons
Well-Known Member
Haha no I just slicked my hair back and put on my best used car salesman grin 
Had to spend the week in So cal. So I stopped by classic industries warehouse on the way home picked up an OEM thikness steel trunk pan, new fuel tank, and new sending unit.
Going to start cutting the trunk pan out today. Hopefully next week I'll have the new one in.
Had to spend the week in So cal. So I stopped by classic industries warehouse on the way home picked up an OEM thikness steel trunk pan, new fuel tank, and new sending unit.
Going to start cutting the trunk pan out today. Hopefully next week I'll have the new one in.
70B5Cuda
Well-Known Member
What a great find! you did well.
lochenjons
Well-Known Member
Bought a MIG welder and all the goodies yesterday. Nothing fancy but a decent 110 welder (not harbor freight) and a small bottle of gas. Now if it'll only stop raining ....
lochenjons
Well-Known Member
Update:
Bought myself a decent (non harbor freight) MIG welder, decent auto-shade helmet, wire, and a cylinder full of gas. Looks like I'll be welding in no time... as soon as I practice welding and cut out the old trunk pan. Couple of questions:
1. Should I support the rear of the car with jack stands or something while I replace the floor pan? I know the structural integrity of these unibody cars is dependent on all the sheetmetal, is it going to droop while I have the trunk pan out? Right now the jack stands are on the "frame" right where the front leaf spring perches are.
2. What's the best way to drill out these spot welds? A special removal drill bit or just a plain old drill bit or a chisel and a hammer? I don't want to drill all the way through the frame and supporting members correct? Also what size have you guys found is the best for drilling these out?
3. The tail panel and lower piece that holds the reverse lights is in relatively good shape but it looks like it's welded to the quarters? Do I have to cut this piece out if I want to slide the new trunk pan in? I really don't want to cut anything on the rear sheet metal I'd almost rather split my trunk pan and weld it together.
Thanks for everyone's help... I'm a total noob when it comes to welding and mopars but I'm going to do as much on this car that I can by myself. If all goes well tomorrow I should have the trunk pan (hopefully) out.
Bought myself a decent (non harbor freight) MIG welder, decent auto-shade helmet, wire, and a cylinder full of gas. Looks like I'll be welding in no time... as soon as I practice welding and cut out the old trunk pan. Couple of questions:
1. Should I support the rear of the car with jack stands or something while I replace the floor pan? I know the structural integrity of these unibody cars is dependent on all the sheetmetal, is it going to droop while I have the trunk pan out? Right now the jack stands are on the "frame" right where the front leaf spring perches are.
2. What's the best way to drill out these spot welds? A special removal drill bit or just a plain old drill bit or a chisel and a hammer? I don't want to drill all the way through the frame and supporting members correct? Also what size have you guys found is the best for drilling these out?
3. The tail panel and lower piece that holds the reverse lights is in relatively good shape but it looks like it's welded to the quarters? Do I have to cut this piece out if I want to slide the new trunk pan in? I really don't want to cut anything on the rear sheet metal I'd almost rather split my trunk pan and weld it together.
Thanks for everyone's help... I'm a total noob when it comes to welding and mopars but I'm going to do as much on this car that I can by myself. If all goes well tomorrow I should have the trunk pan (hopefully) out.
70VCode
Well-Known Member
As long as the frame rails and quarters are in good shape you should be okay if the rear end is out.
as for drilling out spot welds, they have a special drill bits for that. I want to say they are anywhere from 1/4-3/8s but try to measure the spot welds to see what diameter would be able to cut them out. Also make sure you have a hole center punch. That way you can mark the center of the weld and when you begin to drill the bit wont be walking all over on ya.
Now what all did you get for the trunk floor? From the factory these cars had a three piece floor pan: the big center section, and the two trunk extensions. The extensions attach to the outer sides of the floor pan and then bend down to where they attach to the quarters. But to get a clean cut of the floor pan that trunk latch support in the center bottom of your last photo graph will have to come out since that is attached to the floor, and I believe the two bumper bracket supports under the tail lights that look like wedges have to come out... I am not to sure what else would have to come out without looking. A friend and his son had to replace the floor in their 70 charger, but that was 15 years ago and they also had to replace the quarters, rear frame extensions, trunk extensions, rear cross member and lower rear valance. So I am a little foggy on how the trunk panel attaches to the rear of the car.
as for drilling out spot welds, they have a special drill bits for that. I want to say they are anywhere from 1/4-3/8s but try to measure the spot welds to see what diameter would be able to cut them out. Also make sure you have a hole center punch. That way you can mark the center of the weld and when you begin to drill the bit wont be walking all over on ya.
Now what all did you get for the trunk floor? From the factory these cars had a three piece floor pan: the big center section, and the two trunk extensions. The extensions attach to the outer sides of the floor pan and then bend down to where they attach to the quarters. But to get a clean cut of the floor pan that trunk latch support in the center bottom of your last photo graph will have to come out since that is attached to the floor, and I believe the two bumper bracket supports under the tail lights that look like wedges have to come out... I am not to sure what else would have to come out without looking. A friend and his son had to replace the floor in their 70 charger, but that was 15 years ago and they also had to replace the quarters, rear frame extensions, trunk extensions, rear cross member and lower rear valance. So I am a little foggy on how the trunk panel attaches to the rear of the car.
lochenjons
Well-Known Member
Copy, thanks. I'll see how far I get on this today.
lochenjons
Well-Known Member
Big day of progress! Got as far as I could before the sun went down.
My buddy (the guy responsible for me finding this car) with his General Lee stopped by yesterday.
Bought a couple harbor freight spot weld removal drill bits. So far I've only used one! Great !
Before removal:
My progress as of today:
Got frustrated and went on a little moto on the mini bike up to a beer drinkin' spot.
So here's my question in reference to the picture above. Do they make replacement brackets(?) like the one in the picture? Cutting it out and reusing it seems like a pain in the butt. I'd rather just cut the whole thing out and buy a new one. It's welded in there and it's hard to get a cutoff wheel in that tight space... I guess I could buy some more cutoff wheels for my dremel if there's no other choice.
My buddy (the guy responsible for me finding this car) with his General Lee stopped by yesterday.
Bought a couple harbor freight spot weld removal drill bits. So far I've only used one! Great !
Before removal:
My progress as of today:
Got frustrated and went on a little moto on the mini bike up to a beer drinkin' spot.
So here's my question in reference to the picture above. Do they make replacement brackets(?) like the one in the picture? Cutting it out and reusing it seems like a pain in the butt. I'd rather just cut the whole thing out and buy a new one. It's welded in there and it's hard to get a cutoff wheel in that tight space... I guess I could buy some more cutoff wheels for my dremel if there's no other choice.
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
Derwud
Well-Known Member
Love the Moto option!!
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