• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Ballast Resistor 254186

True but based on his application a stock resistor is adequate....

btw I know you do not know Bill O. 62max but when it comes to Carbs and distributors, either his restoration services from him or just core knowledge there is no one around better......
HE DID NOT ASK ABOUT A STOCK OE RESISTOR!!!
 
Hey guys. Come on it's just a resistor. No need to argue as I appreciate all of your points.
 
HE DID NOT ASK ABOUT A STOCK OE RESISTOR!!!
Jason

I am not arguing with you on this matter...I was just telling you whom Bill O. is........He is the go to guy on carbs and distributors and their components...
 
WOW! $37 for a ballast resistor? They are $5 at O'Reilly's.
It depends on Correct versus incorrect....The number font is a little off on the repop but most will never run into anyone whom can tell...The key cost is due to the bracket...

If you take a nice original bracket with the correct font. Send to get CAD plated and factor that cost and shipping cost and then throw in the $5 you referred to just to use the resistor part....Then $37 plus shipping is about the same price...

If correctness is not an issue then by all means I would also run to oreilly's...

The style he has now does not use the bracket so he would need both.....Yes, prices are crazy these days....
 
Got home from work & took some pic's but now need to see if I can find any info on my coil. Accel Racing Coil #140305. Also noticed I have 3 wires connected to 1 side.

IMAG1462.jpg
IMAG1464.jpg
 
IMG_2866.PNG
I'm not sure why there are thee wires.
The second wire on the negative side is the tach wire.
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/100/110/110-2030.pdf
This article mentions the use of your coil. Near the top where it says exceptions 1)... it states that with that ECU and coil combo a ballast resistor is not needed.
You may be able to tie both sides of the ballast resistor together and clean up your firewall.
 
Thanks! I know one of the wires is for the electronic choke. As far as the tach that's great info as it's not working (has power) but I discovered a purple wire under the dash that's connected to it but is not plugged in. Its an Auto Meter Sport-Comp (not a Comp II).
Any ideas where it plugs in?

View attachment 505050 I'm not sure why there are thee wires.
The second wire on the negative side is the tach wire.
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/100/110/110-2030.pdf
This article mentions the use of your coil. Near the top where it says exceptions 1)... it states that with that ECU and coil combo a ballast resistor is not needed.
You may be able to tie both sides of the ballast resistor together and clean up your firewall.
 
IMG_2855.JPG
The electric choke should not be connected to the coil. It should be connected to the 12v side of the ballast resistor or voltage regulator. I'm not familiar with that type of tach. Here is a pic of the back side of a tic toc tach
 
It depends on Correct versus incorrect....The number font is a little off on the repop but most will never run into anyone whom can tell...The key cost is due to the bracket...

If you take a nice original bracket with the correct font. Send to get CAD plated and factor that cost and shipping cost and then throw in the $5 you referred to just to use the resistor part....Then $37 plus shipping is about the same price...

If correctness is not an issue then by all means I would also run to oreilly's...

The style he has now does not use the bracket so he would need both.....Yes, prices are crazy these days....
Ahh, I didn't realize we where talking 100 point show quality correctness. If that's the case, then I can understand the price. Fortunately, I am not in that category.
 
Ahh, I didn't realize we where talking 100 point show quality correctness. If that's the case, then I can understand the price. Fortunately, I am not in that category.
I referenced both options......BTW in a 100 point OE the reproduction will lose points...The number font is incorrect and the CAD finish is incorrect as well...Also, the bolt included with the new one is wrong as well...So with that being said the oreilly's one would lose the same points, lol...

The OP asked and you had a choice and I had a choice and both choices are good for what he is looking for...it just boils down to want and cost...
 
Got home from work & took some pic's but now need to see if I can find any info on my coil. Accel Racing Coil #140305. Also noticed I have 3 wires connected to 1 side.

View attachment 505019 View attachment 505020
Looks like you have the ole mopar electronic ignition kit.....That is something I personally would change....Of course as a future product to something much more reliable...
 
Thanks Justin! I searched for a few hrs last night & only found a reference from Accel's 1973 & 2011 catalog but never found the exact same one. What kind of issues does this have and what would you recommend, not looking for top of the line.

Looks like you have the ole mopar electronic ignition kit.....That is something I personally would change....Of course as a future product to something much more reliable...
 
Thanks Justin! I searched for a few hrs last night & only found a reference from Accel's 1973 & 2011 catalog but never found the exact same one. What kind of issues does this have and what would you recommend, not looking for top of the line.
Control unit failures, especially the orange box. Which is probably why yours has the gold box.

Firecore rtr all the way and their wire set...
 
Get a MSD 6Al and get rid of the crummy ballast resistor altogether if its not a correct "show car."
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top