I covered this topic in my B-body book complete with pictures. The trick is to use the correct calipers when rear mounted. The best calipers to use are the ones that the factory engineers designed to be rear mounted. The FMJ cars in the mid-80's went to rear mounted calipers so the engineers designed the castings with a bleeder at the top and the hose entry at the bottom. You'll also need custom hoses to do the job correctly.
By the way, if you don't have an anti-sway bar then just do it the easy way and hang the calipers to the front. Front hung calipers will accept factory brake hoses and everything will work better. When in doubt, do it like the factory engineers designed it work!
Have you read Eberg's Disc-o-tech article? I'm guessing that maybe you didn't read it originally since it says not to use the late B-body calipers. But maybe you've found the article since then and read it? After you've read his article then you might want to pick up a copy of my B-body book. I tried to provide an update to Eberg's article in my book by showing how to properly rear hang the calipers.
This topic comes up all the time which is why I took the time to take pictures and detail out a solution in the book. There is a set of factory parts which will bolt on and work as rear hung calipers. There is a wider set of parts that works when front hung.
There are also other solutions such as changing the style of anti-sway bar used so that clearance isn't an issue, or rerouting the hard line on the frame so the hose goes to the front rather than the rear for a rear hung caliper. Both of these solutions require extra fab work though.
I'll say tis one more time in this thread, then I'll move on...
The conversion in the refernced "disk-o-tech" article assumes you can cherry pick the best possible parts from several different pretty hard to find parts cars.
I don't know what's in the junk yards where you guys live, but there are NO 71/72 B bodies within 100 miles of me, and if there are the parts are either already gone, or very expensive.
What we do have plenty of is...5th Avenues.
I see at least two every time I go junkyarding.
Have any of the thread contributors ever tried that conversion?
The spindle, rotor and caliper all BOLT ON. Everything fits, nothing rubs or bumps, and the calipers can be either front or rear hung with no issues (yes I have a factory 1966 sway bar).
The prop valve can even be used.
Hoses from a 73-79 B body work (hose info I got from this forum, thanks).
The LBJ bolts even worked and I was able to return the somewhat expensive and hard to find fine thread bolts and lock nuts I was advised I would need.
Brake pads are readily and economically available for the slider calipers, and even can be had in ceramic material. They are roughly 1/2 the cost of pads for pin type calipers.
If this system can stop a 4000+ pound 5th Ave, it certainly can stop a 3400-3800 lb 60's B body, and is absolutely and unquestionably better than front drums.
As a bonus, this conversion also works with 14" wheels (I've had 14x5 Rallyes and 14x7 Magnum 500s on).
I'll admit, I was skeptical until I read the well written "BigBlockDart.com" article that mathematically debunks the "bump steer" issue.
Please take this info for what it's worth.
It was worth several hundred dollars and lots of wasted parts chasing, fitment, and fabrication time for me.
IMO, this is the best kept secret in the Mopar hobby, and I'm trying my best to get it out
Just don't get me started on using a 66/67 8 3/4 axle housing (with no modification) in a Duster!
That's the second best kept "secret", and I'm assuming all those that argue against it are the ones that have been hoarding all the $500 "A body" 8 3/4 housings![]()
I did get some pics of the factory 72 setup today.
I hope they come out. It was very bright, and they were in the shade and possibly backlit.
As soon as I have a chance to take the card out of my phone I'll post them.
Unlike most, my phone takes a pretty dang good pic. I've gotten complements from folks that own $1000 cameras!!
One thing I did notice was that the calipers are mounted in the FRONT, and the car has a FACTORY sway bar. The mounting is different on the 72, as the LCA tabs are further inboard.
The sway bar on my 66 is anchored further out on the LCA.
What sway bar do you have?
I'll say tis one more time in this thread, then I'll move on...
The conversion in the refernced "disk-o-tech" article assumes you can cherry pick the best possible parts from several different pretty hard to find parts cars.
I don't know what's in the junk yards where you guys live, but there are NO 71/72 B bodies within 100 miles of me, and if there are the parts are either already gone, or very expensive.
What we do have plenty of is...5th Avenues.
I see at least two every time I go junkyarding.
Have any of the thread contributors ever tried that conversion?
The spindle, rotor and caliper all BOLT ON. Everything fits, nothing rubs or bumps, and the calipers can be either front or rear hung with no issues (yes I have a factory 1966 sway bar).
The prop valve can even be used.
Hoses from a 73-79 B body work (hose info I got from this forum, thanks).
The LBJ bolts even worked and I was able to return the somewhat expensive and hard to find fine thread bolts and lock nuts I was advised I would need.
Brake pads are readily and economically available for the slider calipers, and even can be had in ceramic material. They are roughly 1/2 the cost of pads for pin type calipers.
If this system can stop a 4000+ pound 5th Ave, it certainly can stop a 3400-3800 lb 60's B body, and is absolutely and unquestionably better than front drums.
As a bonus, this conversion also works with 14" wheels (I've had 14x5 Rallyes and 14x7 Magnum 500s on).
I'll admit, I was skeptical until I read the well written "BigBlockDart.com" article that mathematically debunks the "bump steer" issue.
Please take this info for what it's worth.
It was worth several hundred dollars and lots of wasted parts chasing, fitment, and fabrication time for me.
IMO, this is the best kept secret in the Mopar hobby, and I'm trying my best to get it out
Just don't get me started on using a 66/67 8 3/4 axle housing (with no modification) in a Duster!
That's the second best kept "secret", and I'm assuming all those that argue against it are the ones that have been hoarding all the $500 "A body" 8 3/4 housings![]()