Thanks for your posts Mike! I spoke to both Griffin, Wizard and a few others who all said the same thing, the BeCool will not be able to cool my motor. I went with Wizard because I liked all the positive feedback on their radiators, plus I really liked their integrated shroud and I also went with the 1 1/4 tubes. The serpentine belt I have in my most recent pick is an 8 rib belt. The old photo you were looking at was upside down that is when I was trying to get the car to stop throwing belts at 7k rmp. No longer a problem with the serpentine system. The Wizzard is really a nice piece but it has been 110+ degrees here and the new radiator is much better just still not enough! The only thing I can think of is to place the twin 13 spal fans I have from the BeCool on the front of the radiator for extra airflow, just not sure it will help.
Plum....I had the exact same cooling problem when I drove my car on the street....
210 to 220 degrees and climbing up. I have a BeCool 1000HP radiator with twin fans. I thought they were 13" but when I was talking with Griffin Radiator tech he told me to measure them. Come to find out they were only 11" fans when I measured them. He said I needed their 1 1/4 tube radiator with their widest core and their 13" fans and he guaranteed me that would cool my motor.
I have not yet bought the Griffin Radiator but I will do that later.
Since I now do not really drive my car on the street anymore, I have gone with a Meziere ELECTRIC HD pump that inserts into my aluminum housing. I have the electric water pump plus my twin fans routed to and wired up on toggle swithes so I can turn them off and on at any time. I installed a second Marine Dual Purpose Starter/Deep Cycle Battery in the trunk. I have the twin fans and the the electric water pump hooked up to that battery. My starter, MSD Box, electric fuel pump and gauges are wire up to my other battery in the truck which is a Red Top Optima 34/78 series.
I completely removed my alternator(mainly to save weight and free up some horsepower.)
Now when I drive up to the staging lanes for the 1st run of the day, the water is at about 125 degrees. I let it heat up to 150 degrees and go into the water box and then motor is at about 170 when I launch the car. End of the run it is at about 190.
I come back to the staging lanes, shut off the motor and run the electric water pump and fans (off of the extra deep cycle battery) until the motor cools down to about 125 degrees.
That takes about 5 minutes even on a 110 degree day....then I do the same process all over again.
Point of interest.
The water doesn't "overheat" like it does with street driving because the motor isn't really running long enuf making a drag strip run...the motor is running for around 5 minutes absolute total including pulling up in the staging lane awaiting your turn, going into and out of the water box, making the run and coming back down the return road. (and when the motor is running down the track it is going fast down the track blowing a lot of air thru the radiator)
I have 2 optima batteries and change them out during the noon break, putting the fully charged one in and taking out the one that may have 3 or 4 runs on it. I charge the deep cycle for about 1/2 hour every time I get a change.
The motor probably really likes the cooler water
(not anymore 220-230 degree temps coming down the return road and in the staging lanes trying to get cooled down between rounds when I had my belt driven water pump and had to have the motor running to circulate the water) and I have the peace of mind about the water temp also.
Hope this info is helpful...Mike
And...a side note. My best ET is 10.582 (with 50/50 110 race and 91 pump and 34 degrees timing) but that was in 75 degree weather with about 1100 or 1200 feet adjusted altitude.
The last race I attended it was 105 degrees and 3500-3700 feet adjusted altitude. I thought that was the time to go to straight 110 race gas and 38 degrees timing (which I did).
If I had done nothing the car probably would had gone about 10.70 in that weather but having gone with straight 110 gas and 38 timing it ran consistent 10.59's to low 10.60's all day.
So...now I think it will probably go into the high 10.40's this fall when we get some good racing weather again....