Best 440 N2O combo

[69 GTX]

Still thinking ahead (body still in progress) to motor combo for my GTX. Going to be full stock apperance with AC & most likely on the heavy side 3800-4000. 3.73 auto car. Rethinking a bit now and wondering if a mild 440 with say 200HP of gas would get me in the 10's and still be able to get 10-12 MPG ? I want something I can drive in a parade for a hour or two but still haul the mail. Any thoughts???:glasses13:

 

[Moparmatt72]

To be on the safe side if your wanting to run nos forged internals. Nos is a big shock factor on the rotating assembly but for full stock apperance will be kinda hard to him the nos solinoids but can be done.

 

[Budnicks]

a hotter ignition, coil, better wires, better fuel supply system, capable of 7psi free flowing & 50-70gpm minimum & always use relays to wire everything thru, to avoid spiking... then only quality forged internals & good properly gapped rings {N20 requires more gap} & good quality head gaskets, if you want it to live... you could hide the N20 solenoids &/or N20 nozzles under the intake {make tuning changes kind of difficult thou} a fuel & N20 line & some solenoid wires will be all that can be seen out the bottom & rear, it can be hidden thou... or have a spray bar plumbed directly into the back side of the manifold plenum... you really should have a dedicated fuel system & regulator, for the N20 by itself too, with any system, if you want your engine to live... But hiding your arming switch & activation switch in an easily accessed place may be difficult too... especially to remain "stock appearing"... But have fun & good luck, it can be done, it just takes some ingenuity or forethought... do your research 1st

 

[67 coronet]

how far you build the eng is gonna depend on how much you plan on running the nos.to go to 200 hp shot you will need a stand alone fuel system just for the nos and forged pistons for sure.hiding it is not a big deal,factory air cleaners are huge and tons of stuff can hide behind the carb.arming switch is easy to hide inside(secret place only you know of is good)activation switch can be tps(wot) switch on carb,hidden by air cleaner.

 

[Jeremiah]

For what you are doing I would build a 500ish cube stroker with a hydraulic roller cam and hit it with a top shop system. Easy to hide, idles like a stocker and will make 650 ft-lbs easy on nitrous. Regardless of what you do your big hurdle on this project will be lack of intake manifold plenum volume and exhaust restriction from the manifolds to the tail pipes. Not saying it can't be done just thinking out loud. There is a reason why a stock blueprinted 440 pics up 100 hp with a carb, cam, manifold and header swap.

 

[Seax440Dodge]

As a general rule, the first 5 times you use the giggle gas you have to yell "NAAAAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWSSSS"

 

[69 GTX]

I had a Nos set up on my first RR I think it was a 125-150HP kit, spray bar. It picked up .4 in the 1/8 when I used it.
I had already planned on building the bottom end for the total HP out put. Flat top forged pistons ect. The air grabber air cleaner should hide most everything. I planned on the WOT switch with a progressive controler.
I was going to run headers with ceramic coating. I was looking more for specific Engine combo's that people might be running so I can get a feel for cam & induction system. Going to be using 3.73's with a gear vendor auto. Want to be able to run in the mid 10's. I have MT 325/50 drag DOTs on back. I know there's lots of variables but for the sake of space lets assume the chassis will handle it. BTW I want it through the mufflers.
Thanks again guys.

 

[Moparmatt72]

As a general rule, the first 5 times you use the giggle gas you have to yell "NAAAAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWSSSS"

Nice I read this and laughed my butt off

 

[Budnicks]

I had a Nos set up on my first RR I think it was a 125-150HP kit, spray bar. It picked up .4 in the 1/8 when I used it.
I had already planned on building the bottom end for the total HP out put. Flat top forged pistons ect. The air grabber air cleaner should hide most everything. I planned on the WOT switch with a progressive controler.
I was going to run headers with ceramic coating. I was looking more for specific Engine combo's that people might be running so I can get a feel for cam & induction system. Going to be using 3.73's with a gear vendor auto. Want to be able to run in the mid 10's. I have MT 325/50 drag DOTs on back. I know there's lots of variables but for the sake of space lets assume the chassis will handle it. BTW I want it through the mufflers.
Thanks again guys.

Basically you will need to make basically something like in the neighborhood of 650-700HP or more total HP @ the crank {possibly more thru mufflers & tailpipes} & it will need to 60ft pretty damn well, to get a car that heavy, especially in street trim, into the mid 10's ET's... It can be done thou, probably easier with more gear, lightweight suspension & shock upgrades, really good & properly tuned & sized induction/carb & good free flowing ported cyl. heads, good hot ignition, than more stall speed/or good biting clutch, light reciprocating pieces in the Engine, rims, tires, driveshaft, trans etc., then good slicks/drag radials that can actually hook, also sub-frame connectors, roll bar, good hardened axles & studs {especially if your running any kind of slick} all that with the proper weight transfer, etc.... Good luck, I'm pretty sure you already know, it's allot more than a motor with a little juice/smack/N20 & drag radials, to get into the mid 10's... but Have fun...

 

[69 GTX]

Thanks Budnicks, already got a Dana 60 with Strange axles & studs!

 

[99ss]

To be on the safe side if your wanting to run nos forged internals. Nos is a big shock factor on the rotating assembly but for full stock apperance will be kinda hard to him the nos solinoids but can be done.

yep what he said... n2o hits the hardest and shocks the entire system.... you want proper clearances as well for the amount of HP you plan to make... They make sneaky systems as well but if you are running n2o most guys will figure it out anyway... a dry shot would be easier to hide as you would only have the one line but a wet system is most likely what you would run and that's not as easy to hide

 

[RacerRick]

For 200hp, a wet shot is needed on a carbed car, and I am assuming a plate setup.

If you mount the nitrous solinoid farther away it will hit softer, but you want the fuel solinoid as close as possible to the plate. Cold Fusion, Zex, and Nitrous Express make real nice plates. I would look at two stages in a NEX Gemini Twin or Shark plate. Might be easier to hook up and run harder. I use to run a single stage cheater plate on a 440 all the time at 250hp. The 440 had cap bounce due to the heavy rotating assembly and loads - lightweight rotating assembly, and studs really help reliability.

 

[69 GTX]

Thanks RRick, was planning on bottom end girdle also. Was planning on a progressive controler to help soften the initial hit. If you don't mind would you share your set up/ET?

 

[67 B-body]

I built my 440 with intentions of N2O in the future "maybe"....
Factory steel Crankshaft "standard rod / main journal", Scatt H-Beam rods "4340", Forged .120" Domed pistons, (Rotating assy. balanced), Main stud girdle, Victor 440 Heads, ARP fasteners, Victor intake, Solid MP .590 camshaft, 1.6:1 Roller rockers "offset for Victor head design" EDM Hughes cool faced lifters.
Fuel system is your basic design: Electric fuel pump, 10 gal. RCI aluminum fuel cell, All braided lines with -AN fittings @ fuel cell and under the hood, 1/2" aluminum fuel line in between the rear and front, fuel regulator, braided dual feed line.
Suspension upgrades: S/S leaf springs from Mopar Performance, 8.75 diff with 4.10 ratio "sure grip", 318 torsion bars, 3 way adjustable front shocks set @ 90-10.
Transmission: 727 with Cheeta MVB reverse shift pattern, Deep trans pan, Ultra bell bellhousing, 10" Coan converter "to low stall - needs changed"

 

[RamNBee]

See Mike Daurity's Super Bee in Mopar Action magazine. Mike used to race King of the Street with a Hemi Cuda. Decided he wanted something for fun and streetable. Built 69 Bee that went 10's at Mopar Nats and cruised Brice Rd that night. Bee went into the 9's at Rockingham this year. I will post his number later. His son Steven runs the shop now and has a fast Duster of his own.

 

[69 GTX]

I saw that, wish they'd of put some details about the car in there. My kind of combo!!!!

 

[RamNBee]

Daurity's Garage 919-776-6698, ask for Mike or Stephen. Tell them what you want the car to do.
Norman

 

[69 GTX]

Thanks will be giving them a ring!

 

[RacerRick]

Thanks RRick, was planning on bottom end girdle also. Was planning on a progressive controler to help soften the initial hit. If you don't mind would you share your set up/ET?

This was built about 20 years ago.

Chassis - 68' Dart, 2700lbs, full cage, SS leaf springs moved into the rail, widend rear tubs, 8.75" 4.10 SG rear, 12.5x29.5" slicks, 727 with a J converter, lots of fiberglass body parts, and no interior.

Engine/trans:

68' 440 with stock LY rods and steek crank. ARP bolts throughout, TRW 6 pack pistons (too heavy!) with extra big/deep valve notches, MP 590 solid cam, crane 1.6 rockers, triple springs, template ported 915's with 2.14/1.81 long valves, Hooker fenderwell headers, old Weiand tunnel ram, 2x660 center squirters, Accel BEI ignition, homemade deep oil pan, windage tray, and a bunch I am forgetting.

Trans was a full manual 727 with a J converter, and a griner brake.

Car went 10.80's on the motor on pump gas, and 10 flat spraying 2nd and 3rd. Needed better heads, ignition, and chassis work as it would spin in first on the spray. How it was, it probably could have gone a 9.90 on real good conditions.

These days, I would build a 451 instead, with aftermarket heads and a single 4 barrel and probably run much faster without the nitrous.

 

[69 GTX]

Yeah my car will be 1000 lbs heavier so I think that would equal 1 second slower with the same set up.