To answer the questions, yes and yes. I have competed against Randy Malik. RAMM up in Canada has had some really good results moving the head around on the big block. Too much work for a lazy guy like me so far. Maybe try it later when 787hp from my 451 and 928hp from my 500 isn't enough.
IQ52/Jim can you share details ? {that you can} or maybe post a link to your build, if you've already posted it before somewhere...
I seem to remember the build, {great #'s by the way too, cylinder heads baby}
but not sure where it was MMM or DC .com or on here
a wise ol'man once told me...
"when building a performance/race engine, there 3 things that are a must
#1 well flowing ported cylinder heads
#2 good flowing ported cylinder heads
last but not least;
#3 great flowing ported LeRoy Engine cylinder heads"
the better the heads, the better the engine,
Most of Mopars wedge heads are notorious for being the biggest choke point in these combos,
from being able to make the most power per cubic inch...
I embellished a little IQ52/Jim...LOL...
69 gtx I'll add, the rest of the engine is mainly just an air pump,
hopefully with quality/durable parts {light & forged wherever possible},
hopefully with a good ring & head seal, decent compression
& a good machinist/assembly man, so it'll actually last,
quality hardware, not cheap crap, quality & ample oiling system
& a good well tuned hotter ignition system, doesn't/won't hurt either,
with a proper sized & style cam/valve train components, "for your specific usage/expectations",
with a well tuned/properly sized/style induction system & proper sized/style exhaust/headers/collectors,
is a means to regulate the amount of air...
I know kind of oversimplifying,
http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm
it only takes about 480-500-520 crank hp @ about ballpark 3500-3600#'s,
depending on the cars actual real weight, the altitude, weather & track conditions combined,
all can/will effect the specific combo, to run into the mid 11's, that's if you can make it hook,
with the proper wheel speed & move off the line pretty well, it needs a well tuned combo...
there's a good basic book on Mopar A-B & E-body,
proven/tried & true drag race Combo's & what it takes to run a specific #,
they're older but updated books, somebody will say it's old Purple Shaft mentality,
for getting into the 11's, but the basic formula still applies today too,
just a guideline to help, it's not rocket science, don't over complicate things,
it's all been done before...
Mopar Performance "Chassis 9th edition" #P5007160, it's like $30,
also "Mopar Engines 9th Edition" speed secrets & racing modifications for Chrysler V-8 & 6 cylinder engines #P5249704 for like $25,
also Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook by Carl Monroe HPBooks-1399
you can get them all at Mancini Racing IIRC
It's the whole set up &/or power to weight ratio, it's where the weights at,
how the car works & how the weight transfers, the cars suspension {how well it works},
weight of the reciprocating parts/wheels & tires {lighter generally better},
the gearing & trans clutch or a converter, all matched & working well together,
matched properly to the specific combo {camshaft, converter, gearing, overall weight mainly}
& as light as possible, helps to make it easier too, with less mass/weight to move the better...
what works for one specific combo, may not work so well with another combo
it's the whole combo, in a heavy car, it's even more important to be spot on...
streetable is kind of subjective,
what will the owner tolerate as being "streetable",
what I consider streetable, may not be what someone else considers streetable...
there's always boost, you can use a centrifugal blower,
roots blower, screw blower, turbo/s or N20 too,
you can do allot of different type builds, to achieve a mid 11 second 3500# car
But a specific price point & budget, is usually the biggest deciding factor on what's used/built...
69 gtx good luck
there's probably 100 different builds/combos,
posted here someplace or other, that can be made to work...
