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Best oil and filter combination to use

More than necessary. Before road trips. About every 3500 miles is a guess. Frequency was determined more by flooding everything with excessive fuel when dealing with restart issues in high heat, drag racing etc. With the EFI in now, the car seems to be running smoother and cleaner, and reduced consumption which has a high of 1 qt to thousand when hammering. May go to annual like the modern cars if mileage kept under 7k a year.
i was curious thanks for the input. i am having a hard time with how anybody knows when to change oil. i was raised on oil samples and amsoil in all my heavy duty equipment. i use in in my pick up truck and ran about 50,000 a year. that's when i change it just got over 250,000 on it now and still haven't even taken the valve cover off. so your r/t does more miles than most of the folks around here and was talking to them about putting amsoil in their engines. but when they were telling me that 1,500 miles was alot i just said never mind keep what you have.
 
As no one has mentioned it, I will. I have Moroso oil accumulators on 3 vehicles currently. I like to prelube my engines before I even crank them over. With a gauge on the air pressure port I can watch the oil pressure gauge climb as the piston in the accumulator moves which causes the air pressure gauge pressure to fall. Very reassuring when starting after a longer spell! I also am a Wix fan.
Mike
 
WIX + Phillips 20w50 aviation oil + zddp additive. Filter change at 1000 mi. oil change @ 2000 miles + oil analysis at filter and oil change.
Yep, old aircraft wrench bender and a certified reliability eng. also.
Thanks for the rant. ;-)
 
Moroso oil accumulators
:thumbsup:
I don't have one yet, but I am going to get one for my 440+6 and my wife's 421 Tripower GTO. They are great!
Lots of primo oil suggested.
I use Valvoline VR1 20/50 or 10/40 in my 440 (It's almost always hot when I drive it, and I'm in south Louisiana, where...it's almost always hot...)
Used the same oil in the 421 Tripower until we rebuilt it. Went with a full roller cam and lifters setup, it already had roller tipped rocker arms. After the red colored break in oil, I used the VR1 and some Lucal oil treatment, and now I'm using regular Valvoline for her roller motor.
WIX, NAPA GOLD are the same, and all i use, on everything that I can get a WIX for. The WIX is that much better!
 
dino oil is obsolete
natural gas based requires less additives and does not shear down nearly as much
ep is built in
Wix filters or private wix brands like Napa gold
who makes K&N
remember do not add the usual additives to LN oil they take a different additive you actually lose EP
 
dino oil is obsolete
natural gas based requires less additives and does not shear down nearly as much
ep is built in
Wix filters or private wix brands like Napa gold
who makes K&N
remember do not add the usual additives to LN oil they take a different additive you actually lose EP
Well not exactly true.
¨Dino¨ based lubrication is very very far from obsolete.
Type 4 or true PAO oil may or may not be natural gas derived. Indeed very little for our moderately uncritical automotive use is. Marketing heralds sure make all the noise and shake thos snake rattles to make consumers buy onto the schitck!
The EP everyone loves to wax silly about assumes:
A: Clean internal equipment (engine ).
B: Clean filtration meaning properly changed as the wear debris and combustion soot load and acidity build up demands
C: Clean breather and air intake filtration.
D: Good properly specified, installed, gasket systems (NO goober snot RTV ooze out or over torqued broken gaskets, haphazardly mishandled ¨O¨ rings, etc..). All those things will lead to trash in the oil, filtration clogs, and if one has a really nice day; oil passage blockage). OooooooooH, yeah, we do not want coolant cross contamination either.
But heck the Laboratory weenies under controlled conditions with unlimited funds can routinely show astounding EP mileage or TBC (time before change).

Lubrication packages and AW packages are a whole other technical subject. But for our purposes here there is nothing wrong with adding ZDDP to Type 4 (PAO) engine oils. NO it will NOT shorten the useable life .... remember the real enemy of engine oil is acidity from condensation which builds the corrosion that accelerates wear debris and ...... SO we really should not want to run our oil more than 3000 mi. or in the Spring if the car sat over Winter.

Alas.... nothing is easy. And we never got into all that fun Tribology stuff or beta 200+ filters with those slithering snake emollient marketeers! :)
Thank for the rant.
 
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great rant
I have 0w40 eurospec out with oil tests to 20k with good results vehicles that go 50k/yr
but new fi vehicles
do not try it with carbs or stop and go driving
0w-40 is on the low end of the bracket so think of it as a top end 0w30
I have not tried 0w-40 in a VVT motor- stick with mfg recommendations as to viscosity
 
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