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Headers aren't worth the aggravation for a street car.
Blown tranny now. Honestly, what next?
- Thread starter Mark1972
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Wietse
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But they are easier to find than a set of hp manifolds
Mark1972
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I run Doug's Headers. 2" primaries. My bell housing also does not fit between them. So I have to slide the tranny back, then lower, then back, and so on until I get to the widest part of the header, then rotate the tranny about 30 degrees, and down she comes. I'll post a pic when I get mine installed, hopefully before 2025.
33 IMP
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Gonna disagree, and explain. I think it depends on engine. Examples:.....
67 barracuda, with a 273-no headers
67 barracuda, with a 360 swap-toss up.
67 barracuda, with 408 swap-gonna get headers
67 barracuda, with a big block swap-gonna get headers
70 rr, stock 383-manifolds are pretty good, no headers
62-65 b-body, slant six/440 swap-gonna get headers.
Duster/dart 512. You really gonna run manifolds?
Wietse
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What alternative do we have?
Something in between manifolds and headers?
Are these block huggers something to consider? Better performance over manifold but not such space consuming as a header?
Something in between manifolds and headers?
Are these block huggers something to consider? Better performance over manifold but not such space consuming as a header?
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Pffft!
Mine are fine. They don't burn gaskets and once you know how to work with and around them, they are more than worth the effort.
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Wietse
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If you look on my headers on the picture, there is 1 tube on each side that seems to sit more towards the center of the car compared to yours. (mine are 1-7/8")
Especially the most inner tube on the passenger side is what reduces the width to lower the transmission.
Seems strange, different size primary and they run completely different already looking at yours.
Especially the most inner tube on the passenger side is what reduces the width to lower the transmission.
Seems strange, different size primary and they run completely different already looking at yours.
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The TTI 1 7/8 and their 2" pipes should theoretically be the same aside from the pipe diameter but they are quite different. I don't understand why.
My 2" pipes clear the Fast Ratio steering arms while the 1 7/8" pipes do not.
I only ordered these because they were out of stock on the 1 7/8" pipes when I was ready to buy. I've believed that header pipe diameter should be close to the exhaust valve diameter.
My 2" pipes clear the Fast Ratio steering arms while the 1 7/8" pipes do not.
I only ordered these because they were out of stock on the 1 7/8" pipes when I was ready to buy. I've believed that header pipe diameter should be close to the exhaust valve diameter.
Wietse
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It is what it is, initially I never thought about the fact it will fit through or not.
When the transmission was loose and balancing on the hydraulic jack I realized it's not coming out straight so I turned it on it's side and down she went.
Exhaust valve is 1.74" (stock) and the 1-7/8" tube is 1.875" so its very close.
The valve will be the restrictor in this case anyhow.
Mark1972
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So just a quick update. Picked up the new starter on Saturday, and by Sunday had the starter and transmission back in. Got everything hooked backed up. Fired it up. Much better torque on start up from this starter. Ran up to temp in neutral, and was a little concerned when the tires starter turning forward in neutral, but later read that's normal. After getting up to 180F, topped up the transmission. Ended up taking about 8 or 9 quarts I believe. No leaks. Then I finally got it off the jack stands, and put it in D, and the car pulled forward out of the garage, put it in R, and the car back up in to the garage. I know this sounds simple, but with the old tranny, simply being in D or R wouldn't move the car. Especially in R, I had to really get on it. People thought I had a 4 speed. Now I just have to get it to the shop that rebuilt it and let them check everything over. Who knows, I might even get to drive it a few weekends before the snow flies.
Oh boy, this is what I am facing right now. Transmission rebuilt last year has only about 25 miles on it. Drove the car into the garage last Thursday evening and Friday morning it wouldn't move in any gear. Fluid is out of the bottle clean without any residue. Cooler lines and cooler are not plugged up. Sounds like my TQ probably gave up the ghost
Chuck a quart in and warm up in neutral
1 Wild R/T
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Seriously doubt it's a convertor problem... Check the shifter linkage.... No single band or clutch failing would take out every gear.. But a linkage problem sure will... When you take it out of park can you push the car? Or does it stay in park? sure sign of a linkage problem... But even if it rolls there can be a problem where the main control valve doesn't move... If the external linkages look okay, drop the pan & see if the manual valve is separated from the rooster... See photo...
The fluid level does not change regardless of being in neutral or any other gear. It remains at the same level. So, adding another quart is not something that makes any sense, diagnostically speaking.
Easy way to see if it is a pump issue is to disconnect a cooler line and crank.it over while watching to see if fluid goes into a pan from the line. If it doesn't then your pump isn't engaged or functioning.
1 Wild R/T
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Absolutely not true... If the convertor leaks down the stick will read over full even with the engine running & the shifter in park... When you put the trans in neutral or any gear the fluid is re-directed from the discharge of the front pump to the convertor... In park it leaves the pump & is sent back to the pan... So if it reads full but the convertor isn't full the trans will be low on fluid when put in neutral of in gear... There are aftermarket manual shift valves that allow the convertor to fill in park but stock that's not the case & because of that the fluid level can change when shifting from park to neutral...
I was replying to Remchargers post....
I was speaking of my particular case. My pump is not functioning, therefore the fluid level was not changing. It was the same regardless of whether it was in PRND21. I realize that the level is supposed to change....why else would it say to check the level hot in neutral, per the manual and dipstick .
I was speaking of my particular case. My pump is not functioning, therefore the fluid level was not changing. It was the same regardless of whether it was in PRND21. I realize that the level is supposed to change....why else would it say to check the level hot in neutral, per the manual and dipstick .
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