Rear trim edge set into place on the glass and a couple piece of tape to show full insertion depth. Tape is 0.060 thick, so when finished the trim will sit back from the tape approximately that amount.
Tape cut to length and layed out centered on the glass edge.
Stainless trim set into place and then persuaded into position with the rubber mallet.
Excess setting tape cut off with an exacto knife.
Next up replacing the 53 year old mylar with a new reproduction. Fortunately both of the original plastic H pins are good for this side, so one less hurdle. They still never fit worth a ****.
New mylar trimmed to match the old at the top end.
Mylar shoved tight onto the glass to get centerline for the new H pin holes.
Paper punch works like a dream, has just enough depth to get into position on the top. The bottom hole you have to open up the mylar folds and go at it from the side.
Bottom hole punched as a small slot to allow for thermal expansion and then the H pin put into place.
Nice and smooth operation after the 5th reinstall. I've found it takes at least 3 re and re's using glass cleaning spray as a lube and after each re/re then cleaning all the fluff out of the channel and off the mylar that rubs off the reproduction junk, that inturn jams things up. Final install I then soak the vent frame channel with silicon spray and then slide the glass back in and work it full up and down. If you can't slide it back and forth easily in your hand the window crank is never gonna do it!
