Broken block, need opinions

[Fran Blacker]

If I had $5k to burn I'd try to have the original block for my car fixed. As of right now it is going with my car. Can still feel the OH sh!t moment when I loosened head bolt on #5 cylinder .

 

[biomedtechguy]

Get a 400 block that will use your existing bolt ons, and build a stroker. If it was a Hemi or maybe even a V-Code 440 block, numbers matching, I'd say it would be worth fixing for the numbers matching aspect.
If I was shopping for a Roadrunner, I would prefer that it had a non-numbers matching stroked 400 or a 440, and I would actually pay more for that than a #s matching 383, and don't take that wrong as I am a major fan of the 383 engine!
I have a non-numbers matching 440 with all the 6bbl rods, crank, dampener in my 70 V-Code Roadrunner, and I'm glad for it. I wouldn't have been able to afford it if it was the original engine, and I would have had to keep it/make it original instead of doing pretty much anything I want to it.
JMO
Good luck.

 

[70chall440]

I'd put a 5.7 or 6.4 into it actually and enjoy life with modern power and reliability.

 

[R413]

This is a funny thread. He is asking about fixing the #’s block. No mention of his plans with the car. So everyone chimes in with how to change the car and “upgrade”. LOL

But the title is asking for opinions, well he got them.

 

[biomedtechguy]

This is a funny thread. He is asking about fixing the #’s block. No mention of his plans with the car. So everyone chimes in with how to change the car and “upgrade”. LOL
But the title is asking for opinions, well he got them.

Sometimes the winding roads are the ones that lead to the destination.

 

[Challenger340]

I'd put a 5.7 or 6.4 into it actually and enjoy life with modern power and reliability.

Until you gotta fix it.... and you will....
and then you might as well just be another 1950's Cuban guy scrouging/installing a "Lada" Engine in his 1950's North American Car... because nobody could fix the old stuff let be the new stuff anymore ?
History repeats...
just say'in....
from what I'm seeing there are becoming fewer and fewer who can still do a 440 properly let be what will be around to do the 5.7 etc down the road when the time comes ? and it will..... they 5.7's already got Lifter issues ?

 

[70chall440]

Until you gotta fix it.... and you will....
and then you might as well just be another 1950's Cuban guy scrouging/installing a "Lada" Engine in his 1950's North American Car... because nobody could fix the old stuff let be the new stuff anymore ?
History repeats...

A modern drive train is typically easier to find parts for locally than much of the older stuff. I suspect you are referring to the parts needed to put the modern drive train into the older car such as the motor mounts, exhaust, ECU and harness. That might be a risk to a degree but IMO not a huge one.

 

[Zaust]

Take it to a good shop. They will know based on what they see. Nothing wrong with sleeves. Nothing wrong with fixing it.

Take to a machine shop

 

[Dan 1969 440]

Ive seen cast aluminum and cast iron welded a few times. They make special rods for stick welding. Expensive but they do work. Ace hardware has

View attachment 1099919 View attachment 1099921[/QUOTE]

 

[Dr Stan]

I too recommend taking it to a machine shop for sleeving. One thing no one else has mentioned, have the block magnafluxed prior to any machine work. It should give you a good idea as to whether or not the block is repairable.

 

[Cranky]

A couple of questions to consider. Do you plan on ever selling this car? Would you like to have a nicely built 400 stroker? Is the value of the car important to you? Would the car be worth more with a fixed original but previously damaged 383 or a nicely built 400 stroker? Well, that's more than a couple of questions but that should convey my thinking. I know what I'd do and keeping the original block and building something that's a better foundation would be in my mind. If the car was say an A12 road runner, it would be a no brainer what I'd do with it but for the money you are about to spend on the original 383 and depending on other work the car may need, the resale value may not eclipse the cost of bringing it back to life in it's original form. With a healthy 400, you could lean on it without worrying that you might completely destroy the original engine and you can always say you still have the original engine safely tucked away (and not be lying about it) if someone asks about that once the car is up and running hard with that 400 stroker.

 

[GTXDAN]

I agree with Cranky 100%. There are lots of 383 RRs out there, but they don't bring the money that one with a better motor brings. Get a 400 and stroke it and keep the block so if you decide to sell it you can give them the original motor.

 

[70chall440]

While the engine can be repaired, there will always be a "question" about it and any time it has issues you will always wonder if its related to the repair.

 

[biomedtechguy]

you can always say you still have the original engine safely tucked away (and not be lying about it) if someone asks about that once the car is up and running hard with that 400 stroker.

Exactly!! Again, I am a BIG fan of "our family's" 383!! In the last year, I was looking for examples of how it may compare favorably or be better than the 396 Chebby, if likewise equipped and built in a manner to promote each engine's inherent engineering (design) qualities. The best aluminum heads, cam profile and matching valvetrain, pistons, crank, BUT stock stroke!!
BUT
It's not a 440 6bbl or Hemi !!
Now I am far more performance driven than "numbers matching" driven, and MY V-code 70 Roadrunner is a good example. Because it's a 71 block with all the 6bbl "goodies" AND a 292°/.509 Purple Stripe cam, headers, yada yada:
I was able to afford it vs #s matching.
I can and have modded it with a clear conscious.
For MY purposes, it's WAY more enjoyable than a "correct" #s matching trailer queen!
Build a 400 stroker or drop in a 440, and have FUN!
If resale or intrinsic value is a concern, I personally would pay more for a well built 400 block based stroker than a welded up "original" 383, in fact I'd pull a welded up 383 out and fog it because I'd be afraid to push it.
My .02

 

[Cranky]

Exactly!! Again, I am a BIG fan of "our family's" 383!! In the last year, I was looking for examples of how it may compare favorably or be better than the 396 Chebby, if likewise equipped and built in a manner to promote each engine's inherent engineering (design) qualities. The best aluminum heads, cam profile and matching valvetrain, pistons, crank, BUT stock stroke!!
BUT
It's not a 440 6bbl or Hemi !!
Now I am far more performance driven than "numbers matching" driven, and MY V-code 70 Roadrunner is a good example. Because it's a 71 block with all the 6bbl "goodies" AND a 292°/.509 Purple Stripe cam, headers, yada yada:
I was able to afford it vs #s matching.
I can and have modded it with a clear conscious.
For MY purposes, it's WAY more enjoyable than a "correct" #s matching trailer queen!
Build a 400 stroker or drop in a 440, and have FUN!
If resale or intrinsic value is a concern, I personally would pay more for a well built 400 block based stroker than a welded up "original" 383, in fact I'd pull a welded up 383 out and fog it because I'd be afraid to push it.
My .02

I like the stock stock 400 for a few reasons. My car is light so not having gobs of low end torque isn't such a big deal. Plans for my 'last' engine was to do just that with good heads and valve train, T56 Magnum trans with plenty of rear gear. May still happen but things need to change pretty soon for that to happen.....

 

[Andy Davenport]

These days..... this may be good advice simply because of the remaining 'competence' left out there in the Machine Shop Industry(what industry anymore).
And really here ?
what's the point when there are 440's available ?

that said....
if... and that's a very big if.... you can access a competent Shop that is able to Clean, Y5 Flourescent Mag and/or pressure test the Cylinder casing for patent water jacket integrity ?
then a couple of thin wall sleeves is no big deal when 'stepped' correctly for retention at the bottom, then bag it off to the side.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Welcome Andy!
Do you have a Mopar(s)? What cha got?
Pix?

 

[Andy Davenport]

Give it a nice jet cleaning, sleeve it, might alone bore it case the crank based the main caps use studs instead of bolts to hold the freshly turned crank shaft, or new crank shaft in, than sleeve the cylindes, but first, check the block for cracks

 

[Andy Davenport]

I like the stock stock 400 for a few reasons. My car is light so not having gobs of low end torque isn't such a big deal. Plans for my 'last' engine was to do just that with good heads and valve train, T56 Magnum trans with plenty of rear gear. May still happen but things need to change pretty soon for that to happen.....

 

[grtflred]

Everything is fixable... $$ Blew up 440 now 512. One sleeve.