Budget conscious Performance Upgrades

[Rebelrouser]

The biggest bangs for the buck are gears and a torque converter in combination and working together. Never used the cam you mention but if it is a stock short block you have probably low compression. Easy way to tell if you need more compression with that cam is to do a simple cranking compression test, that will give you an idea of what the dynamic compression is. If you do a cranking compression test and you have less than about 140 lbs you need more compression to make it run right. Also a cheap way to increase the dynamic compression is to advance the cam timing, a timing chain set with multiple keyways is a pretty cheap investment. For what is possible out of a low compression engine look at what NHRA stock eliminator cars do with a stock low compression short block. Stock index for a car like yours is low 11's and most competitive racers run 4 tenths under the index.

 

[RJRENTON]

I wouldn’t trust this thing on a 4 mile roadtrip let alone 4000 . In all seriousness mechanically it’s sound (other than the upgrades not really meshing together well) but the car really does run like a bat outta hell. It’s just not as fast as it COULD be



Here’s an in car video of a little pull I did

View attachment 1816158

CONGRATULATIONS......that is one butt ugly car, that deserves to be put out if it's misery....no matter how fast it runs.......just my opinion......
BOB RENTON

 

[RemCharger]

CONGRATULATIONS......that is one butt ugly car, that deserves to be put out if it's misery....no matter how fast it runs.......just my opinion......
BOB RENTON

You're on a roll and the day's still early!!

 

[mavwreck]

The biggest bangs for the buck are gears and a torque converter in combination and working together. Never used the cam you mention but if it is a stock short block you have probably low compression. Easy way to tell if you need more compression with that cam is to do a simple cranking compression test, that will give you an idea of what the dynamic compression is. If you do a cranking compression test and you have less than about 140 lbs you need more compression to make it run right. Also a cheap way to increase the dynamic compression is to advance the cam timing, a timing chain set with multiple keyways is a pretty cheap investment. For what is possible out of a low compression engine look at what NHRA stock eliminator cars do with a stock low compression short block. Stock index for a car like yours is low 11's and most competitive racers run 4 tenths under the index.

I would be impressed if I could use a torque converter since the car is a 4 speed but very useful information rebel! Thank you!

 

[BSB67]

I am sure this has been discussed before but I would like to hear from others what known upgrades (with a lower budget) I should be on the hunt for. I am 23 years old and only had my Coronet for 3 years and I believe I’ve made a post about it a while back but I’ll go over what the current setup is

1967 Dodge Coronet 440
- 1978 440 Block, crank, rods and pistons
- Purple shaft 474 Camshaft with new stock springs
- “516” closed chamber heads
- Edelbrock Torker 440
- Holley 700 cfm Double Pumper
- stock refurbished hei distributor with GM module
- iron flywheel and diaphragm style clutch
- 1.75 long tube headers
- 2.5” exhaust with purple hornies mufflers
- 1964 or 65 23 spline a833 (flange style)
- Yukon 489 case with 3.23 suregrip
- 28 x 8.5” Hoosier Slicks
- power steering
- manual 10” drums front and rear

As the car sits without me in it it weighs 3910 lbs. I know for sure that the stock pistons need to be addressed and the cam is very small. This was the first time I took it to the drag strip and it ran 15.154 at 91 mph. I will that elevation was over a mile so in reality it should be a high 14s car. Just wondering what would be my best price to performance upgrade path since I’m rebuilding the motor and trans this summer.

I have some thoughts, but questions as well.

1) what was your best 60’ time? Better yet, post a couple time slips.

2) exactly how many passes down the track have you made in the car?

3) you need to give us a specific $ budget amount. You will then get specific responses from us with expected et./mph within your budget.

4) it’s not clear if the budget includes the anticipated rebuild? Are you planning piston replacement?

 

[mavwreck]

I have some thoughts, but questions as well.

1) what was your best 60’ time? Better yet, post a couple time slips.

2) exactly how many passes down the track have you made in the car?

3) you need to give us a specific $ budget amount. You will then get specific responses from us with expected et./mph within your budget.

4) it’s not clear if the budget includes the anticipated rebuild? Are you planning piston replacement?

All things I should’ve considered in my original post my apologies. All my time slips are with the car in storage but my best 60’ was .233 and my average 60’ is .2409 over the 15 runs I’ve made on the car total.

I am trying to stay under 5k as of right now and I’m not particularly looking to shoot for a super low ET but I would really like to at least bust into the low 13s, high 12s.

A motor rebuild is very much on my list since the rear main is now leaking and the motor could really at least use a good inspection.

All things considered, at the end of the day just looking to spend my money on the parts that count and enjoy the car. Nothing too serious but my apologies for not being too clear on my goals and limitations

 

[padam]

You're on a roll and the day's still early!!

I no longer agree with Renton. What an asshat

 

[padam]

All things I should’ve considered in my original post my apologies. All my time slips are with the car in storage but my best 60’ was .233 and my average 60’ is .2409 over the 15 runs I’ve made on the car total.

I am trying to stay under 5k as of right now and I’m not particularly looking to shoot for a super low ET but I would really like to at least bust into the low 13s, high 12s.

A motor rebuild is very much on my list since the rear main is now leaking and the motor could really at least use a good inspection.

All things considered, at the end of the day just looking to spend my money on the parts that count and enjoy the car. Nothing too serious but my apologies for not being too clear on my goals and limitations

Just so you know, it’s easy to get 5k in just a rebuild on a BBM.

 

[mavwreck]

I no longer agree with Renton. What an asshat

I get comments like this quite often and I usually don’t address them or just don’t pay attention to them. As Bob stated, it’s his opinion and he’s ok to think whatever he wants. If I had to say something about it however I would say it’s simply due to the high price of entry in mopars that drives my generation away from buying or building these cars. My other reasoning for keeping this one alive is the unbeatable story of how I got the car too

 

[padam]

I get comments like this quite often and I usually don’t address them or just don’t pay attention to them. As Bob stated, it’s his opinion and he’s ok to think whatever he wants. If I had to say something about it however I would say it’s simply due to the high price of entry in mopars that drives my generation away from buying or building these cars. My other reasoning for keeping this one alive is the unbeatable story of how I got the car too

Good attitude. Mine isn’t the nicest or fastest car around either. But if you’re going to put yourself out there you’re going to get all kinds of comments from the peanut gallery.
There are lots of different ways to enjoy this hobby. The best way is the YOU want to do it.

I’m starting to believe that Bob is nothing more than a troll.

 

[#41]

I would see two options to work with $5k.

1. Buy some eddy performer heads, install 4.11 gears, and lighten the car with plastic racing buckets, empty the trunk, and anything else you can think off (heater, radio, back seat, etc. etc.). It's not optimal to live with the low compression pistons you have, but given the budget limitation this is one option. You'll then have the heads for later if you choose to get into the short block.

2. Rebuild the short block with high compression pistons and lighten the car and install 4.11 gears per (1) above. Get a carbide bit and do a mild clean up on the ports on your 516's yourself. There are plenty of instructions on how to do this, and it's practically free.

I would probably start first with a compression test and inspection of the existing heads and valves before choosing a path. The results may send you down one path versus the other.

 

[RemCharger]

I no longer agree with Renton. What an asshole

Your spellchecker screwed something up but all good

 

[hofferwood]

Your spellchecker screwed something up but all good

 

[71RRHI]

I get comments like this quite often and I usually don’t address them or just don’t pay attention to them. As Bob stated, it’s his opinion and he’s ok to think whatever he wants. If I had to say something about it however I would say it’s simply due to the high price of entry in mopars that drives my generation away from buying or building these cars. My other reasoning for keeping this one alive is the unbeatable story of how I got the car too

Some people forget this is a hobby. Hobbies should be fun. People have different ideas of fun. Sounds like your having fun. Keep it up!