Bulkhead Connector-UPDATED
- Thread starter The Rebel
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The Rebel
Well-Known Member
Well I was very busy today. Spent about 8hrs taking several connectors apart. Started off with lemon juice, wire brushed the connectors, another dunk in the lemon juice, rinsed with hot water, air dry, soaked with cleaner & then hit with the die-electric grease. Only had one connector snap so was glad for that.
Had to get a new neg battery cable as the clamp broke as I was reconnecting everything.....
Was agreat day to be outside with a good breeze from Jose out in the Atlantic.
Had to get a new neg battery cable as the clamp broke as I was reconnecting everything.....
Was agreat day to be outside with a good breeze from Jose out in the Atlantic.
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Good job. Now you won't experience the roadside terror that I have. Had Linda with me at the top of Carson Pass car died on the way to Reno. Bulkhead. Before I knew. Most of the terror was Linda. Well done.
That would be 'My Big, Fat, Greek Wedding'. Great movie.
Mike67
Well-Known Member
Just one suggestion especially on these old terminals, use a soft plastic brush like I said earlier.
I would not use a wire brush and certainly would never use sand paper. Those connectors rely on pressure and surface area to allow the rated current through. When you sand/ scratch the contact area you esentially remove that point of contact & which makes the current only flow through those areas still in contact...this creates heat.
Heat is the enemy of any conductors, now the conductor heats up more than it did before because there is less surface area for current to flow through. With heat come expansion, the more expansion, the less pressure is applied which result in less contact yet again and the cycle continues until the current exceeds the capability of the connector and you get whats in your picture...
I would not use a wire brush and certainly would never use sand paper. Those connectors rely on pressure and surface area to allow the rated current through. When you sand/ scratch the contact area you esentially remove that point of contact & which makes the current only flow through those areas still in contact...this creates heat.
Heat is the enemy of any conductors, now the conductor heats up more than it did before because there is less surface area for current to flow through. With heat come expansion, the more expansion, the less pressure is applied which result in less contact yet again and the cycle continues until the current exceeds the capability of the connector and you get whats in your picture...
Ranger16
Well-Known Member
WOW, that's a LOT of dielectric grease. I just used an acid brush and lightly coated the connectors. Did I under do it?
The Rebel
Well-Known Member
Hey Mike. Thanks for the input. I did a very light rub & no sandpaper. Definitely didn't go to town on them or try to get them to shine. Think I did like 2 or 3 swipes. I let the lemon juice do the work.
From what I understand the idea is to make sure you seal out any air, moisture or dirt from getting in.
From what I understand the idea is to make sure you seal out any air, moisture or dirt from getting in.
Do I need to talk about this and the real solution? LOL
threewood
Well-Known Member
Haha! I'm pretty sure the coverage in the ammeter bypass thread should do it!
Well yes LOL, but attention! Alt upgrade FIRST, then the bypass ( or parallel) path.
BELIEVE OR NOT, the alt upgrade helps out on that more than you think, and more than the new path itself... why?
Packard terminals are able to hold nicelly maybe around 30 amps, a bit more quite often if clean and tight
If you have a 35/45 amps stock alt ( which is likelly the rate for those ) will mean put out maybe 18/20 amps at iddle.
If our car requires 25/30 amps as a more less constant load being able to be handled by the packard terminals IF alt is able to source ( that never or barelly changes no matter the RPMs ) using regular devices, such as lights, brake light, Radio, Ignition, turning lights and maybe increased using Heater or AC ( due the blower ) and wipers, it means you have at iddle maybe around 10 amps deficiency. This load is given by the batt while alt is not able to source it geting Discharge.
So, you give gas, the alt will be able to source the max output, NOT JUST TO FEED the car load, but ALSO the batt load back, which will demand what it lost previouslly. That it means 45 amps through the terminals. These are still the same 25/30 amps to feed the car demand plus 10-15 the batt demand. THIS load is not good handled by the packard terminals
Just 15 amps will run through the amm showing Charge, but bulkhead black wire is getting 45.
If you upgrade the alt with an alt able to feed 40/45 amps iddiling the batt will never ( or barelly ) be sucked out, it means you'll never ( or barelly ) get charge reading, it means black wire at bulkhead will never ( or barelly ) will see more than 30 amps going throught. Remember, amperage is sucked out by the devices, never pushed in by the source. You can get 500 amps alt, but if car demands just 30 amps, the alt will never source more than that, just need to be sure your alt is able to source it.
So EVEN on stock paths, which is also great to upgrade just in case, a more efficient alt as an only upgrade is safer than just upgrade the charging paths.
Of course I'm talking about the basics. There are more involved on this, how big is your batt load reserve, how much you use the car and accesories, how is your driving stage ( city, highways )... I'm being just simple.
Ignition systems get also benefits of the alt upgrade, specially ECUs. How many of you guys have seen the ECUs backing stuff melt and stick to the firewalls or inner fenders? The heat is caused by the lack of power coming from the charging system.
So once again, alt first, then charging paths, even mostly of ppl thinks the opposite.
I think your bulkhead terminals are still useable, with just a good cleaning. Dunno if you want to replace the housing thought. Is still useable, but being those available I'd replace it.
Being stock system still somehow healthy, a 12 gauge parallel paths will be nice and enough without remove the stock ones. 10 gauge if you want to feel more comfortable.
An alt able to source around 45 amps iddling. Stock 80s alts are able to give that ( they are rated 78/80 amps ) and priced on $50-60 rate. I'm using one of those and is fine. I have though to myself the TufStuff 100 amps alt ( around $200 ) as a next upgrade which should be able to put closer to 50/55 iddling if needed ( living in a tropical country where when it rains the max speed wiper and AC uses to demand that ) but I can't afford it at this moment.
Stock 80s alts are A BIT wider housings ( couple of mm maybe ) due the wider stator and housing design even still looks stock. It can get some clearence deals with block depending on bracketing assembly. On my 74 with BB had to use a longer belt ( an inch or so ) and trim a bit the rear alt spacer.
And trust me, the ammeter will be quite in peace even they are rated as +/- 40 amps because will barelly read juice going and coming from batt.
BELIEVE OR NOT, the alt upgrade helps out on that more than you think, and more than the new path itself... why?
Packard terminals are able to hold nicelly maybe around 30 amps, a bit more quite often if clean and tight
If you have a 35/45 amps stock alt ( which is likelly the rate for those ) will mean put out maybe 18/20 amps at iddle.
If our car requires 25/30 amps as a more less constant load being able to be handled by the packard terminals IF alt is able to source ( that never or barelly changes no matter the RPMs ) using regular devices, such as lights, brake light, Radio, Ignition, turning lights and maybe increased using Heater or AC ( due the blower ) and wipers, it means you have at iddle maybe around 10 amps deficiency. This load is given by the batt while alt is not able to source it geting Discharge.
So, you give gas, the alt will be able to source the max output, NOT JUST TO FEED the car load, but ALSO the batt load back, which will demand what it lost previouslly. That it means 45 amps through the terminals. These are still the same 25/30 amps to feed the car demand plus 10-15 the batt demand. THIS load is not good handled by the packard terminals
Just 15 amps will run through the amm showing Charge, but bulkhead black wire is getting 45.
If you upgrade the alt with an alt able to feed 40/45 amps iddiling the batt will never ( or barelly ) be sucked out, it means you'll never ( or barelly ) get charge reading, it means black wire at bulkhead will never ( or barelly ) will see more than 30 amps going throught. Remember, amperage is sucked out by the devices, never pushed in by the source. You can get 500 amps alt, but if car demands just 30 amps, the alt will never source more than that, just need to be sure your alt is able to source it.
So EVEN on stock paths, which is also great to upgrade just in case, a more efficient alt as an only upgrade is safer than just upgrade the charging paths.
Of course I'm talking about the basics. There are more involved on this, how big is your batt load reserve, how much you use the car and accesories, how is your driving stage ( city, highways )... I'm being just simple.
Ignition systems get also benefits of the alt upgrade, specially ECUs. How many of you guys have seen the ECUs backing stuff melt and stick to the firewalls or inner fenders? The heat is caused by the lack of power coming from the charging system.
So once again, alt first, then charging paths, even mostly of ppl thinks the opposite.
I think your bulkhead terminals are still useable, with just a good cleaning. Dunno if you want to replace the housing thought. Is still useable, but being those available I'd replace it.
Being stock system still somehow healthy, a 12 gauge parallel paths will be nice and enough without remove the stock ones. 10 gauge if you want to feel more comfortable.
An alt able to source around 45 amps iddling. Stock 80s alts are able to give that ( they are rated 78/80 amps ) and priced on $50-60 rate. I'm using one of those and is fine. I have though to myself the TufStuff 100 amps alt ( around $200 ) as a next upgrade which should be able to put closer to 50/55 iddling if needed ( living in a tropical country where when it rains the max speed wiper and AC uses to demand that ) but I can't afford it at this moment.
Stock 80s alts are A BIT wider housings ( couple of mm maybe ) due the wider stator and housing design even still looks stock. It can get some clearence deals with block depending on bracketing assembly. On my 74 with BB had to use a longer belt ( an inch or so ) and trim a bit the rear alt spacer.
And trust me, the ammeter will be quite in peace even they are rated as +/- 40 amps because will barelly read juice going and coming from batt.
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hey! Alternator pulley too.. smaller as posible! Oldies alts use a big pulley. Lates and aftermarket use the small one. Large pulleys are nice for race cars, but street cars demands the small due the diff rpm rates both kind of cars handle.
Stock alt could be upgraded with just the small pulley if you think could be quite enough for your car. You can try it first, before upgrade the alt.
Stock alt could be upgraded with just the small pulley if you think could be quite enough for your car. You can try it first, before upgrade the alt.
Ranger16
Well-Known Member
Nacho, the more I read your posts, the more I learn and the better I understand this system and it's inequities and needs. I wish I had known all this before I replaced my alternator last year. Had I know, I'd have opted for a larger output alternator. As it is I went with one from Advance/Carquest, rated at 55 Amps (Scroll down to spec's)(https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-alternator-remanufactured-50-amps-7007a/20210522-P?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*14999|L3*15587). Does that sound adequate? No A/C, wipers and heater blower rarely ever used, headlamps occasionally, mostly highway or suburban driven. Bulkhead connectors are OEM, but clean, tight and coated with dielectric grease. All wiring original except the ammeter is bypassed.
Bobo
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Well, doesn’t happen often, but I’m afraid I’m going to have to disagree with you Nacho, on one point. The Packard 56 terminals being able to handle up to 30amps, not in my experience. Especially after 45+ years of dirt and corrosion. These bulkhead charging circuit terminals have been over heating and melting bulkhead connectors since day one with minimal stock vehicle loads. They are the single weakest link in the original design IMO. Dealers were dealing with this issue under warranty when these vehicles were new. I remember distinctly a C-body recall campaign to add an additional (parallel) 12gauge wire run from the alternator to the “batt” accessory connector on the fuse box through the oval clutch rod firewall hole. First step should be get all charging/vehicle current loads out of the bulkhead connectors using Packard terminals. My preferred method is replacement of all stock 12gauge charge circuit wiring with 8gauge, bypassing the bulkhead connector, routing through the firewall using a grommet, straight to the ammeter.
Yes I guess is hard to believe, but if you look at the Bosh kind relays some of them are rated to source more than 30 amps and still use same kind of terminals than packards. ( females are in fact the same ). Of course they need to be in perfect conditions. After all these years and stress, of course they don't anymore.
If stock wire is still in working conditions, with just small mantenience ( like the ones Rebel got ) actually doesn't need to be removed, but backed up with a parallel path.
Why I preffer where is posible to keep the stock ones, specially the black one? Because the main splice is in the middle. Keeping the stock and using the parallel, the main splice can still be feeded from both sides ( the two 12 gauge wires, engine and ammeter legs ). If using just the bypass and removing the stock one from engine harness, will mean the main splice will be feeded just from amm side of the black wire, coming from the bypass wire at amm junction. It means even if you use a 10 or 8 gauge for the bypass wire, the main splice will be sourced from JUST one of the stock 12 gauge wires, the one from ammeter. That wire section will get all the stress.
HEY! I'm not saying bulkhead packard terminals are already safe and you can forget about them, but with just the alt upgrade, even the weakest point of the line, the bulkhead terminals, will notice the difference that and be gratefull and still can hold the load on a pretty much basic equipped car.
If stock wire is still in working conditions, with just small mantenience ( like the ones Rebel got ) actually doesn't need to be removed, but backed up with a parallel path.
Why I preffer where is posible to keep the stock ones, specially the black one? Because the main splice is in the middle. Keeping the stock and using the parallel, the main splice can still be feeded from both sides ( the two 12 gauge wires, engine and ammeter legs ). If using just the bypass and removing the stock one from engine harness, will mean the main splice will be feeded just from amm side of the black wire, coming from the bypass wire at amm junction. It means even if you use a 10 or 8 gauge for the bypass wire, the main splice will be sourced from JUST one of the stock 12 gauge wires, the one from ammeter. That wire section will get all the stress.
HEY! I'm not saying bulkhead packard terminals are already safe and you can forget about them, but with just the alt upgrade, even the weakest point of the line, the bulkhead terminals, will notice the difference that and be gratefull and still can hold the load on a pretty much basic equipped car.
well, I guess is better than the one your car got from factory? I guess on 45 amps rate, but still not enough if you ask me. That carquest one must be sourcing 28/30 amps max at iddle with the small pulley. Pretty much enough for basic operation. But when more is demanded, won't get the juice at low rpms. Hazzards and even brake lights are big suckers.
I guess you still must get some dimming headlights when you turn them on at iddle. And becomes worst if you turn on the wipers &/or heater/vent blower.
I guess with the car driving status you mentioned, can take long to get actually heavy discharges and notice big troubles, but on a big city on rush hours and traffic lights, could be a headache. Specially if you don't put in Neutral while on traffic light LOL
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Believe? No, it’s not believable because the statement has no basis in fact. If the original Packard connectors could handle anything close to 30 amps, we wouldn’t be having this conversation. If the original Packard connectors used couldn’t handle charging current when new, what makes you think they can when cleaned up. Bosch relays? First the current rating on modern Bosch and/or Bosch style relays (any other electrical relays for that matter) applies to the secondary contacts current rating not the blade type connections the relay uses. Can’t compare the modern relay blade/spade connections to the original Packard terminals. While some blade/spade sizing fits Packard connectors, they are not the same.
As for original 12gauge feed to the splice, if no additional loads are connected the factory harness, it’s more than adequate to feed original equipment loads. All other additional loads will need to connect to the alternator side of the ammeter, either directly at the ammeter or tapped in the charge lead in the engine compartment.
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