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Bulkhead Connector-UPDATED

Yes maybe the male terminal can be a big difference! Never thought on that.

Mmm about the stock alt ( and batt ) wire....I still preffer to keep the original one as far is posible &/or is still is in good conditions, if not, then just remove it and done :). Just about personal prefferences. I think in fact when I reassembly my car, will remove just the batt one, not sure yet
 
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Roger

Have you inspected those 2 wires from the bulkhead on the dash side?

Just pop it out from the engine bay area and pull it down to look at it.

Justin
 
Not yet, but on my to do list.

Roger

Have you inspected those 2 wires from the bulkhead on the dash side?

Just pop it out from the engine bay area and pull it down to look at it.

Justin
 
Those will clean up very nicely with product available almost everywhere. Clr calcium lime and rust remover. It is oxalic acid which is a very mild acid that is easily neutralized with water and blown dry. Try it and maybe small toothbrush. You can find dental flossing brushes that will reach the inner parts great connections afterwards.
 
I too have not had any success with just spraying. I bought deoxit, at $25 a small can, in hopes that a good soaking would cleanup the connections. Truthfully, it wasn't any better than any other electronics cleaner I've used. I prefer to have the connections nice and shiny, which I can only get from scrubbing and spraying. Dielectric grease is good to keep the moisture out, but it is non-conductive, so the connections need to have a tight fit. Otherwise, the grease can interfere with current flow and cause more problems.
Here's a few pics from some recent work I did on the 64. The highbeam switch connector usually sees a lot of moisture and can get nasty. Just spraying it did little to remove the oxidization.

View attachment 516724 View attachment 516725 View attachment 516726 View attachment 516727 View attachment 516728 View attachment 516729
yes your absolutely correct those spray cleaners are great for dust and light dirt but will not remove corrosion, deoxit works well after cleaning to prevent further oxidation.
 
Hey guys. I'm going to be opening this up tomorrow to see what the contacts look like. Will also be buying some die electric grease.

1. What's the best way to unplug w/o doing any damage (after disconnecting the battery)?

2. If I find any corrosion is there some type of spray cleaner I can use to remove/clean it?

I've used soda (coke) before to clean battery terminals of the white/green crud but don't think that's a good idea for the electrical connections.
Rebel, my 64 bel was in such bad shape that I had to replace mine, I dug around on ebay enough to find brand new ends for the plugs (both sides of the firewall) I cut mine leaving enough wire to ID the color and replaced all of them with new brass ends, antioxident grease and I will never have to worry about them again. the plug is very expensive and even used is high! I was lucky and had a complete harness front and rear from a 64 plymouth state police car that I once owned, so the plug didn't cost me anyting, good luck with your quest. Dave.
This is real good info that someone posted this on here to help me: https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html
Hey guys. I'm going to be opening this up tomorrow to see what the contacts look like. Will also be buying some die electric grease.

1. What's the best way to unplug w/o doing any damage (after disconnecting the battery)?

2. If I find any corrosion is there some type of spray cleaner I can use to remove/clean it?

I've used soda (coke) before to clean battery terminals of the white/green crud but don't think that's a good idea for the electrical connections.

This is real good info that someone posted this on here to help me: https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html
 
Glad you got it fixed up Rebel...just for fyi I've always used this stuff on connections. Not cheap but superior to dielectric grease..a little dab'll do ya!
20180814_090416.jpg
 
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