Chilsam
Well-Known Member
No but it is very thick...vaseline works because it is thick then liquefies at a low temp the is absorbed into the oilDoes STP make a thick Vaseline like product?
No but it is very thick...vaseline works because it is thick then liquefies at a low temp the is absorbed into the oilDoes STP make a thick Vaseline like product?
Would Permatex Anti-Seize lube be too thick for priming the oil pump? I use it mainly on fasteners.No but it is very thick...vaseline works because it is thick then liquefies at a low temp the is absorbed into the oil
NO ...do not use that....use STP or Vaseline.......IF it is assembled n in car ..."I.M.O" would fill filter let it sit while filter is off I'd use a Auto Trans fluid funnel to get the STP or at least some VR 60w or VR50w into the pump thru the port in the pump housing....u could pull the dist and make a priming tool fit to a drill into pump n use to prime it...when you see oil coming out of pump ur good n put filter back on with dist back on n timed of courseWould Permatex Anti-Seize lube be too thick for priming the oil pump? I use it mainly on fasteners.
Cracked intake tube??Same here. 45 years of doing my own oil changes. The problem I'm having is engine lost oil pressure, changed pump (440) and still no pressure. Reaching out for other ideas what causes pressure loss. I welcome ideas on making install is correct.
Check to see if if a lifter popped out. If a rocker arm breaks, and I've broken a few, a tappet can be tossed out of it's bore and all oil pressure is lost.Same here. 45 years of doing my own oil changes. The problem I'm having is engine lost oil pressure, changed pump (440) and still no pressure. Reaching out for other ideas what causes pressure loss. I welcome ideas on making install is correct.
My Bee was in the marine container for almost 14 years, pulled it out and fired it up. Zero issues... engine rebuilt in 1978 for about 300 bucks, still going strong. I did put a new timing chain set and valve seals in it afterwards but nothing else.I must be blessed....never had an issue firing up a big block and not having pressure. Even with ones that sat for awhile. I have one last big block still on the stand that hopefully will go into my car pretty soon and I have a feeling that engine is gonna give me grief lol. Rebuilt it but over 20 years ago. Done many over the years for other people and only had one come back because of an oil leak.
I just installed a new Rockauto Mellings oil pump.Have you had the relief valve out yet? I had one stick open with varnish, etc. years ago. It is behind the plug at the back of the pump. Pull it out and clean with paint thinner or brake cleaner. Spray relief bore with brake cleaner and clean with bottle brush.
Removed pump put oil in the pump and half fill the filter and didn't diddle around, start the car. You can add oil to the oil pressure fitting if you can cobble something together. Never did that.None of you guys are making it clear what actually solved your problems.
All I know, is that with Fram filter, the pump would not prime. Changed to Wix filter, and it primed up 75 psi. I don't know how to say it any clearer.None of you guys are making it clear what actually solved your problems.
Dave,After working on my 1964 Dodge Polara, since the Pandemic, I figured I had it ready to fire up today. My buddy and I worked on it Saturday and today and got the 440 engine running, only to find we had no oil pressure. I had tried priming it with my power drill, and foiund it only had a slight resistance when spinning CCW, and none when spinning CW. I know the pump and distributor run CCW. I have primed other big blocks, and when they start to achieve pressure, it almost jerks the drill out of your hands. This was not the case today. Yesterday, I had the restricter valve and spring out of the pump, thinking maybe the valve got stuck in the bore. I cleaned everything up and replaced the stock blue spring with a stiffer black one. I have a new filter and 5 L. of 10 W 40 oil in it I have the stock sender with red light in the dash, plus an aftermarket mechanical gauge under the dash. Neither gauge showed any pressure. Curiously, the hydraulic lifters were not clattering.
The car has not been on the road for 20 years, but I would occasionally fire the engine up to make sure it did not get stuck. The car was a strong runner when I parked it in my new heated garage 20 years ago. When I had the engine out of the car about 4 years ago when the car body was getting restored, I pulled the intake,water pump, and heads off and put new gaskets in it. At the same time, I coated everything with GM.Engine Oil Supplement. I use this stuff at every oil change in my old cars. I don't think the engine has 10,000 miles on it since a quality rebuild. I figure that either the pump or filter has f**ked up. After talking to a couple of Hemi racing buddies, I think that the inner rotor and shaft have separated. I have a new Melling M63HP pump on order from RockAuto (made in USA). I had it all lined up for new exhaust for tomorrow, but cancelled that. I am pretty disappointed. After working on these early B-bodies for about 50 years, this is not my first rodeo.