Bump steer-can it bee this bad?

[RGAZ]

I am with most of the guys betting on worn bushings.

Any chance you could get some pictures for us?

Randy

 

[Loubo40]

I am with most of the guys betting on worn bushings.

Any chance you could get some pictures for us?

Randy

It's a very very low mile car with 40 years between its first batch of miles and the 50 I've put on it since it's been on the road again. I guess that in itself could be the problem. Dry rotted rubbers than torn up when finally used again. As I said I did change the upper bushings to install offsets but the old ones looked fine.

 

[cdr]

the center link & inner tie rods are all wrong

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the center link looks to be in backwards ,it needs to be flipped around

 

[Loubo40]

the center link & inner tie rods are all wrong

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the center link looks to be in backwards ,it needs to be flipped around

Would the inner tie rods still go in the bottom, meaning with the nut at the top, or should the nut be on the bottom.

 

[cdr]

i am trying to find some pictures

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[Loubo40]

i am trying to find some pictures

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Wow that's great info! That's gotta be the problem. It looks like the center link is in right but the inner tie rods are out 180!

I'm gonna try that tomorrow and see how it goes.

Thank you!

 

[cdr]

the holes for the tie rods are tapered,they can only go in one direction,thats why i think the center link has to be flipped over.

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also center link has a bend to it to clear the oil pan,,look at the 1st pic & you can tell the direction it goes.

 

[kb67mopar]

Yup looks like you found most of your issue. 40 year old rubber will still come to haunt you later.

 

[fuzzycoronet]

i had that same problem on a dodge charger turned out it was a bent lower control arm had to look close at it but that was what it was

 

[Cranky]

All the holes for the center link, pitman, idler, and tie rods are tapered and if things are put together wrong and tightened up good, there's bound to be damage either the fits or the joints or both. Inspect things closely.

 

[Loubo40]

All the holes for the center link, pitman, idler, and tie rods are tapered and if things are put together wrong and tightened up good, there's bound to be damage either the fits or the joints or both. Inspect things closely.

that's good advice as always, thanks. im hoping to find time tonight to make things right. i am looking forward to a ride without constant tire squeal.

 

[Loubo40]

I flipped the inner tie rods around 180 degrees. I had to use the Mancini racing lower ball joint tool to press them out. It ball joint shafts looked ok. I really couldn't tell if the center link was messed up but the joints seem to fit in ok.

The difference was apparent immediately as the tires pointed straight ahead even with the suspension in full hang. They were towed in before at least two inches while hanging.

It drives like a different car, I can't believe the difference. It rides better, turns better all around feels better.

A big thanks to cdr for picking that up and posting the pics!

 

[coloradodave]

Great call CDR. It's cool when a member takes the time to publish pictures and an accurate assessment of another member's problem. It's hard enough to do if the car is sitting right in front of you, let alone thousands of miles away. Way cool when he's right...

 

[nm9stheham]

Glad you found it out; I just saw your pix and the 3rd one told the story.

I still am concnered for you and your car: I would disassemble the center link joints again and REMOVE the center link completely and inspect all of the center link tapered holes VERY closely. I am sure you saw the tapered holes in the link ends. If any of the parts were installed inverted, then you need to check the small end of the tapered holes in the center link. If they are wallowed out too much from the tapered bolts being pulled in too tightly form the wrong side like they were, they will never hold for any length of time. The tapers will loosen up and then things will wear in a hurry. No need to take chance with something so critical on a valuable car. Replace the center link and any idler/pitman/tie rod end with a damaged/tapered bolts. Slight damage can be fixed with reaming or filing but only minor damage.

Whoever installed this wrong could have done more bad stuff than you have seen without full disassembly of the center link; it has been known for some rubes to grind/file the tapers when they get the worng parts or assemble it wrong. IMO, you won't be done until you have removed the center link and inspected all holes and tapers.

 

[Loubo40]

Glad you found it out; I just saw your pix and the 3rd one told the story.

I still am concnered for you and your car: I would disassemble the center link joints again and REMOVE the center link completely and inspect all of the center link tapered holes VERY closely. I am sure you saw the tapered holes in the link ends. If any of the parts were installed inverted, then you need to check the small end of the tapered holes in the center link. If they are wallowed out too much from the tapered bolts being pulled in too tightly form the wrong side like they were, they will never hold for any length of time. The tapers will loosen up and then things will wear in a hurry. No need to take chance with something so critical on a valuable car. Replace the center link and any idler/pitman/tie rod end with a damaged/tapered bolts. Slight damage can be fixed with reaming or filing but only minor damage.

Whoever installed this wrong could have done more bad stuff than you have seen without full disassembly of the center link; it has been known for some rubes to grind/file the tapers when they get the worng parts or assemble it wrong. IMO, you won't be done until you have removed the center link and inspected all holes and tapers.

I fully intend on doing so as when i was repairing this i did notice a bit of movement in the idler arm. when i change that, the whole center link will come out for inspection.

thanks for the info.

 

[nm9stheham]

Good deal. And just a side note....my '62 Dart, that has been driven a full 3000 miles since 1972, had some quirky steering when I got it. Turned out that the parts were original and the old grease was so dried that the steering joints were randomly hanging up. With your car's low mileage and practically no driving, you may have the same issue. All of my car's parts are being changed out, and I'll rebuild the steering box to get the old grease out.

 

[sleepar]

When I put poly bushings in my car you have to reuse the outer shells of the original lower control arms and if the rubber is spent and the shells get worn they cannot be 'reused or you can press in New rubber ones and burn out the rubber and use the poly.... I mention this because the best thing to improve the suspension is to put in poly there... it's a lot to ask of a rubber bushing exposed to heat and fluids... if someone wanted to make some out of brass it would be the next biggest thing.. coming from a spring shop mechanic