Cable melted!?

[Dk440]

How is your battery voltage was it good at the time or more than 14? Did not see the post about the MSD box.
Do you still have the instructions for it? Most MSD boxes will tell you to get rid of the ballast or use a 4 post one.
If you have the instruction review them and see which diagram fits your set up. This could be the problem as it was building up of last summer and has just finally snapped with a fresh battery charge or a new VR etc.

If you don't we can get it for you online by searching.

Voltage was close to 14, only I have noticed it periodically fluctuating lately.
I bought the car as is in winther 2010/11 and I sadly do not have the instructions for the MSD box. I have not altered anything since.

Pictures of MSD box + engine compartment below.

Greatfull for all your help!:icon_viking:

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Hers is the link to the instructions, print them out and verify what you have before you make any changes.

If something does not look right then see if one of the details is what it should be.

Let us know, Good luck!

http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles/MSDIgnitioncom/Products/Ignitions/6420_instructions.pdf

 

[Dk440]

Hers is the link to the instructions, print them out and verify what you have before you make any changes.

If something does not look right then see if one of the details is what it should be.

Let us know, Good luck!

http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles/MSDIgnitioncom/Products/Ignitions/6420_instructions.pdf

All seems ok and done by someone who knew what he was doing.....very clean and nicely done. The only thing is the ballast resistor still there, obviously. I just cant understand, how this could be the cause for the blue wire to melt - what does the ballast resistor do, exactly - you mentioned something about it "building up"??? It says in the MSD manual, that it is recommended to bypass it, but not why......
I have MSD distributor and run the violet and green wire to it, and as far as I can see from the manual, the ballast resistor is no longer needed, as you mentioned. If I am to bypass the ballast resistor, do I then simply splice the wires from the 2 terminals together, or - see picture?

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Yes bypass it, in the original application the resistor was used to drop the voltage to the points so they would not fry with full voltage.

If you have a new electronic distributor and ignition module you can do away with the resistor not needed at all! No points - no resistor needed.

I used a MSD 6AL and a mechanical advance distrib, msd coil and a one wire alternator that has a built in regulator. I got rid of the stock VR and resistor.

The resistor could have fried and just sat there with 15 volts on it and just kept getting hotter and hotter until something had to break. Yes splice them together first thing if you have replaced the melted cable it should fire right up.

 

[Dk440]

Yes bypass it, in the original application the resistor was used to drop the voltage to the points so they would not fry with full voltage.

If you have a new electronic distributor and ignition module you can do away with the resistor not needed at all! No points - no resistor needed.

I used a MSD 6AL and a mechanical advance distrib, msd coil and a one wire alternator that has a built in regulator. I got rid of the stock VR and resistor.

The resistor could have fried and just sat there with 15 volts on it and just kept getting hotter and hotter until something had to break. Yes splice them together first thing if you have replaced the melted cable it should fire right up.

Thank you very much - I will sort that out in the weeks to come, as soon as I have the spare parts - I will buy a new VR as well, just in case.

Thanks for all your replies guys - HUGE help for a novice like me!:icon_viking:

 

[Dk440]

.....not quite there yet!

New wires, VR and Ballast resistor bypassed...........but still not running!:angryfire:

When I turn the ign. on, I get power to the MSD box.........so far so good. If I then try to turn the key all the way and start it, the relay clicks and the light in the ceiling disappears. If I turn the key back to ign. again light comes back, so my guess would be a short in either the starter or the ign.switch itself.

What are your thoughts???

 

[coloradodave]

What does the voltmeter show when in ignition switch is 'on' verses when you try to start it?

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

There are 2 ign wires that went to the ballast resister.One start and 1 run,might have to combine those 2 wires:headbang:

 

[coloradodave]

Did you mean to say that you bypassed the voltage regulator as well? If so, go ahead and reconnect it. You should have 2 wires in your splice. 1 from the V/R and 1 from the 'ign' terminal on the ignition switch (run). The original coil + wire that ran to the ballast resistor should be connected to the small red wire on the MSD6AL box. The heavy red wire on the MSD is connected to 12 volts (not keyed), the heavy black wire is connected to a GOOD ground and the plug with the green and violet wires connects to your distributor. The small black wire goes to the - side of the coil and the orange wire goes to the + side of the coil. If all this checks out, get back to me and I'll go over the trouble shooting for spark.

 

[Dk440]

Did you mean to say that you bypassed the voltage regulator as well? If so, go ahead and reconnect it. You should have 2 wires in your splice. 1 from the V/R and 1 from the 'ign' terminal on the ignition switch (run). The original coil + wire that ran to the ballast resistor should be connected to the small red wire on the MSD6AL box. The heavy red wire on the MSD is connected to 12 volts (not keyed), the heavy black wire is connected to a GOOD ground and the plug with the green and violet wires connects to your distributor. The small black wire goes to the - side of the coil and the orange wire goes to the + side of the coil. If all this checks out, get back to me and I'll go over the trouble shooting for spark.

I only bypassed the ballast resistor by simply splicing the 2 connectors as shown in one of the above posted pictures - the VR is brand spanking new.
The voltmeter shows 12v when in ign. and drops to 0 when in "start".........and the cabin light goes out, so I am guessing there is a short somewhere - or maybe the starter is stuck eating all the power???

 

[coloradodave]

Have you tried jumping the 'Bat' terminal to the 'sol' terminal on the starter relay to see if the starter engages? If it does, that would rule out the battery and starter/solenoid. Then I'd start looking at the ignition switch. If it doesn't engage, then the starter/solenoid are suspect.

 

[Plymouth_Bob]

i would also recommend checking into any ignition relays that may be mounted on the inner fender to the starter, i know this isnt factory but as we all know things get done over the years, and if one fails it may cause a no start condition, if the car cranks but does not start run a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the coil turn key if car starts then you are not getting a full 12volts to the coil with would indicate low voltage to the ignition box if the if the car does not start then you may have a bad coil, just my 2 cents

 

[coloradodave]

DON'T DO THIS! The car has an MSD ignition box and running 12 volts to the coil may ruin it. MSD is very specific that the coil only has the orange wire (+) and the black wire (-). MSD has a way to check coil and distributor operation, but I believe the problem is the motor won't turn over.

 

[Dk440]

Have you tried jumping the 'Bat' terminal to the 'sol' terminal on the starter relay to see if the starter engages? If it does, that would rule out the battery and starter/solenoid. Then I'd start looking at the ignition switch. If it doesn't engage, then the starter/solenoid are suspect.

That was next on the list.........jyst tried it, and the starter does not turn - the solenoid occasionally engages, but that is it - starter is dead.
I just can not see, how all my other problems could be related to a bad starter, or is it simply "collateral damage"???

I noticed when romoving it from the car, it jumped back meaning it was engaged and turning with the engine while engine was running, and at that point propably then working as an extra alternator = burning the cable!?
Thoughts?

I found a new starter on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MINI-MO...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20bd9eb1fb&vxp=mtr

Is this a quality product and right for me ( there are tons of different starters out there....).

 

[coloradodave]

That starter looks as good as any. Before you order it you might want to 'bench test' your current starter/solenoid by grounding the case of the starter to the neg side of the battery and touching the solenoid (where battery cable connected) connection on the starter to the pos terminal on the battery. Also it might be a good idea to have the battery 'load tested' by a local auto parts store. No use throwing more money at this until a culprit is found.

 

[Joe Mopar]

I had the same problem about a month ago. Amp gauge erratic, then smoke. Ended up being the alternator that was bad, shorted out and fried the two heavy wires going all the way back to the amp gauge.

Lucky I jumped out and disconnected the battery or would have lost the whole harness.

Bought a 1 wire alternator and did away with having the dash alt. gauge being connected, also installed a fusible link so I'll never have the same problem again.

 

[coloradodave]

He's got a little different situation, Joe. The car is wired with a voltmeter instead of the original amp gauge and the wire that overheated went from the ballast resistor to the ignition switch. With everybody's help it will get solved.
Dave

 

[Dk440]

That starter looks as good as any. Before you order it you might want to 'bench test' your current starter/solenoid by grounding the case of the starter to the neg side of the battery and touching the solenoid (where battery cable connected) connection on the starter to the pos terminal on the battery. Also it might be a good idea to have the battery 'load tested' by a local auto parts store. No use throwing more money at this until a culprit is found.

I bench tested it, and the solenoid does engage the starter rod, but it does not spin..........!:eusa_think:

 

[coloradodave]

I bench tested it, and the solenoid does engage the starter rod, but it does not spin..........!:eusa_think:

Did you test it on a KNOWN good battery?

 

[Dk440]

My mistake.......STARTER WORKS FINE out of the car with battery from car using jumper cables! Refitted it - same result - solenoid kicks one time and then nothing. 12,55V at battery, 12,55 volts at firewall ( battery mounted in trunk), 12,55v at relay but something is not right...........I went over the ground straps and everything looks fine ( 2 from engine to frame ) - I am ready to throw in the towel!:angryfire: