Cam Install Question! Help!

[emonster6x]

Greetings!

I am swapping out a cam in a 440. I have pulled the distributor, and I found that I have to move the oil pump drive as well.

Question is how do you do this without alot of hassle?

I am only swapping cam and lifters. I have the front of the motor off and the top too.

Please advise!

Thanks.

 

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

Stick a large slotted screwdriver in the slot on top of the oil pump drive and rotate , CCW I think, and the gear will climb off the cam gear, grab it with some long nose pliers and pull it out. Mark the position of the slot first so you put it back in the same spot or your wiring on the cap will be off.

 

[emonster6x]

Thanks! I was at a loss!

 

[moperformance]

your probable past this but it's a tip to use when putting the rocker arm and push rods back on. Take the oil dip stick and lay it across the rocker arm support post (next to the intake)handle to the front and let the top of the push rods lay against them, when you set the rocher arm assembly on the head the dip stick will hold them out away from the rocker arm shaft and it's easy to spread them out so they are under the rocker arms when you tighten the assembly down to the head.pull the dip stick out from the front and your done! GOOD LUCK!

 

[emonster6x]

Thanks dude! I'm not there yet, so that will help!

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

In case you needed x-ray specs lol inside view

 

[emonster6x]

Thanks, that's what I see! I was wondering now, how hard is it to put back in?

 

[emonster6x]

Stick a large slotted screwdriver in the slot on top of the oil pump drive and rotate , CCW I think, and the gear will climb off the cam gear, grab it with some long nose pliers and pull it out. Mark the position of the slot first so you put it back in the same spot or your wiring on the cap will be off.

How hard is it to put back in?

 

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

How hard is it to put back in?

Its easy to put back. Just stick the drive end in the bushing and line the slot up about 90 degrees or so from where it should point and turn back on the gear. If it doesn't line back up just back it out and index it where it needs to be. Since you are doing a cam swap I would imagine you are moving the crank around to degree the cam so hopefully you had the timing marks a TDC before you marked the alignment for the distrib. slot. If not no big deal you might have to rewire the cap starting at no.1. Install the distib so your vac. canister clears everything and with the motor at TDC, on compression stroke, wherever the rotor points that is no. 1.

 

[emonster6x]

Its easy to put back. Just stick the drive end in the bushing and line the slot up about 90 degrees or so from where it should point and turn back on the gear. If it doesn't line back up just back it out and index it where it needs to be. Since you are doing a cam swap I would imagine you are moving the crank around to degree the cam so hopefully you had the timing marks a TDC before you marked the alignment for the distrib. slot. If not no big deal you might have to rewire the cap starting at no.1. Install the distib so your vac. canister clears everything and with the motor at TDC, on compression stroke, wherever the rotor points that is no. 1.

I lined up the balancer timing mark and the timing mark in the tab, and checked that the rotor was at number one. That's right? Right? Also, the rockers are on a shaft and non-adjustable, I presume?

 

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

I lined up the balancer timing mark and the timing mark in the tab, and checked that the rotor was at number one. That's right? Right? Also, the rockers are on a shaft and non-adjustable, I presume?

Sounds like you are on the right track. Yes with a hyd. lifter cam the stock rockers are non adjustable. When you go to tighten down the shafts, tighten them down evenly a couple turns at a time until they are snug, then torque to spec. You do have a service manual right?

 

[emonster6x]

Sounds like you are on the right track. Yes with a hyd. lifter cam the stock rockers are non adjustable. When you go to tighten down the shafts, tighten them down evenly a couple turns at a time until they are snug, then torque to spec. You do have a service manual right?


Yes I bought an old 1970 Chilton Manual for her!

 

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

Sounds like you are on the right track. Yes with a hyd. lifter cam the stock rockers are non adjustable. When you go to tighten down the shafts, tighten them down evenly a couple turns at a time until they are snug, then torque to spec. You do have a service manual right?


Yes I bought an old 1970 Chilton Manual for her!

Keep your eye out for the Factory Service Manual, can pick one up cheap on E-Bay at times. Everything you will need to know about your car.

 

[Pistol Pete]

I use two long flat blade screwdrivers. You insert both tips in the slot in the drive gear and squeeze the screwdriver handles together. This forces the tips apart and gives a good grip in the gear. Works well for re-installing the unit to boot.

 

[oldbee]

Good idea from moperformance---If you lost ur dipstick ,straighten out a piece of coat hanger--works just as good.

 

[67 B-body]

Just use your entire hand to lift it out or place it back in...... The Valley pan will be removed in order to get the lifters out fellas,,,,,,,, He doesn't have to work through a tiny dist hole on this?
Once your done, just line plug wire from cyl #1 up to the rotor tip when on TDC comp stroke. Then start counting out the firing order 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 and place the wires on in that order. Unless your wires are short and just making it to the point in which they were previously attached, it doesn't matter a bit where you start the wire order as long as #1 is put on where the rotor is pointing at TDC.
BTW, when you line up the "dots" on your timing set, that will be TDC on the EXH stroke,,,, not compression! So don't place your wire on the dist with the rotor pointing at it..... It will be 180deg off and backfire through the carb the first time your air/fuel meets a spark!

 

[emonster6x]

Just use your entire hand to lift it out or place it back in...... The Valley pan will be removed in order to get the lifters out fellas,,,,,,,, He doesn't have to work through a tiny dist hole on this?
Once your done, just line plug wire from cyl #1 up to the rotor tip when on TDC comp stroke. Then start counting out the firing order 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 and place the wires on in that order. Unless your wires are short and just making it to the point in which they were previously attached, it doesn't matter a bit where you start the wire order as long as #1 is put on where the rotor is pointing at TDC.
BTW, when you line up the "dots" on your timing set, that will be TDC on the EXH stroke,,,, not compression! So don't place your wire on the dist with the rotor pointing at it..... It will be 180deg off and backfire through the carb the first time your air/fuel meets a spark!

What? I lined up the timing marks on the balancer and pointer, and the rotor was at #1. That's TDC as far as the cam install right? I did notice that the timing mark on the cam gear was at 12 o'clock and the crank gear had no mark. So should I put it back in like it came out or match up the two dots on the cam and crank gear?

 

[67 B-body]

line up the dots for the cam.... #1 TDC.
If you dont turn the engine over up to the point in which you install the Dist, you will have to point the rotor 180deg from #1 on the dist cap. When you install a cam, your actualy doing it with the engine at 180deg out on #1 cyl.The piston is at TDC on exhaust stroke not compression.......