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worn fuel pump push rod
- Thread starter shovelluv
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Good one!
The guy who built my first 440 used the same push rod that came out of the damaged engine. Needless to say, it only lasted about 3,000 miles.
I replaced the push rod with a supposed good one, but also had installed a HD Carter HEMI fuel pump. Well, the spring tension was so much that it made the push rod wipe out the cam lobe. Had to get the cam rebuilt to restore the fuel eccentric lobe.
After that I swapped out the fuel pump, and made sure the push rod was in good condition. Didn't have problems after that.
During the time with a shortened push rod, I won a drag race by 1/100th of a second - the other driver and I made eye contact while crossing the finish line.
He later accused me of sandbagging as he could hear my engine popping and banging. Turns out it was because all six barrels were near bone-dry from running so hard that the engine was starving of fuel. Short push rod was the culprit.
I replaced the push rod with a supposed good one, but also had installed a HD Carter HEMI fuel pump. Well, the spring tension was so much that it made the push rod wipe out the cam lobe. Had to get the cam rebuilt to restore the fuel eccentric lobe.
After that I swapped out the fuel pump, and made sure the push rod was in good condition. Didn't have problems after that.
During the time with a shortened push rod, I won a drag race by 1/100th of a second - the other driver and I made eye contact while crossing the finish line.
He later accused me of sandbagging as he could hear my engine popping and banging. Turns out it was because all six barrels were near bone-dry from running so hard that the engine was starving of fuel. Short push rod was the culprit.
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shovelluv
Well-Known Member
I corrected , its 5000 not 500. I missed a zero
shovelluv
Well-Known Member
First off, thanks for all the replies and info on the post. I contacted Comp and the guy told me they do not sell a pushrod for Mopar's that works with their cams, I explained my situation, flat tappet, and he said that Comp recommends using a bronze tip fuel pump pushrod. Which I can only imagine that would only last a short time. Next, I contacted 440 source as well as Mancini. 440 source said the one they sell is an exact replacement of what would have been factory, Mancini said the hardened one they sell has had no negative feedback or issues. I do have a 440 block with the OEM pushrod I found late last night and will pull and measure it. I also have a rear seal leaking.. imagine that... so I will be pulling the pan anyway and will be inspecting where a 1/4" of my shaft, wearing down, ended up.. I can't say if the one I used was an OEM or a replacement at one time, I just know it was in specs, that's why I used it. I will be ordering one from 440 source and keeping an eye on it. I know there is a lot of posts on this but hopefully this will be most beneficial to the group.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...usg=AOvVaw19m-cAcV3pV_QEi-6_9E9R&opi=89978449
The bronze tipped rods are for roller cams. I only ever use factory pushrods, nothing else. Everytime I find a good one in the yard I grab it for stock. If your oem rod you pulled from the 440 is too short, let me know.
SSSN8KE
Well-Known Member
I very recently had fuel pump issues with my 383. I Checked out the rod and found it was 1/4” shorter than it should be. I ordered a new rod from National Moparts with hardened ends and haven’t had any problems since.
69 Charger
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After 178,283 miles on my 383 I had it rebuilt last year. The rebuilder reported that the (original) fuel pump push rod was BENT! How that could happen mystifies me. I can see that it is bent slightly on one end when I roll it on a granite countertop. The engine was running fine, but the body was into a two-year restoration and I figured it was time to rebuild the engine anyway. A new pushrod was installed. Now I wonder whether it is up to par or not.
moparx
Well-Known Member
having measured many of those fuel pump push rods over the years on well used engines, i have come up with 3.220-3.241 in total length.
these rods have had ends that were just polished from wear, with no measurable divots present using a machinist straight edge and a .001 thickness feeler gauge.
these rods have had ends that were just polished from wear, with no measurable divots present using a machinist straight edge and a .001 thickness feeler gauge.
Way back when, I had 70 Challenger 383 4 speed. Somebody "gave" me a used electric fuel pump & told me it would improve performance. I pulled the mechanical pump off and took out the push rod which was somewhat worn on the end, not bad. Well, the car had something like 130,000 miles on it and would occasionally backfire through the carb when starting. When I took out the push rod was when I realized that you can feel the timing chain through the hole. In my case, I had about 2 inches of play, lol. That explained a few things. However, I found that the electric fuel pump was not only very noisy, no matter what I did timing wise, it never ran that well. If I recall, the pump came with an adjustable pressure regulator. Adding insult to injury, occasionally the electric pump would not come on. I would pop the hood & whack it & then it would be okay for a while. I got disgusted with the whole mess and reinstalled the mechanical pump with a new push rod. Good to go from then on.
BeepBeepRR
Well-Known Member
I replaced 2 pushrods in the same 440 in a little under a year. Not sure what brand he bought but butter was harder than the pushrod. 2 Pushrods weird thing is the cam lobe was fine.
Wow, that sux! Was this recently?? Just a day or so ago I ranted about today's inferior grade metal on another site. There seems to be the new standard these days. I am glad I am old, lol!
BeepBeepRR
Well-Known Member
It was late last year on the second one.
The one I just pulled out of a motorhome 440 had a oil groove in the middle. I gave it to a friend who lost 1/4" on his. Mine measured 3.25.
joseph p.
Well-Known Member
hi guys, stalling after warming up a couple minutes rodb,length is good,what about end wear?I checked everything for stalling,fuel sending unit is next to diagnose,thanks for your attention.
Rishi
Well-Known Member
More and more things, parts, and products are being sourced from OUTSIDE the US, but sold by US makers of products. That's not necessarily a problem, but the US makes pretty darn good steel, wherein, some other countries are still trying to catch up.
Add to this, some guy in a communist society (where the divide between the haves and have-nots is very wide) is trying to get ahead by choosing lesser-costing, poorer-hardness steel to save a buck and make more profit.
Unlike a US mom-n-pop store, or a US business, few if any of his end-users will ever be able to contact him and whine about his crummy product. He never has to take responsibility for his selfish choices. And, he doesn't care about repeat customers. He makes an inexpensive product, and he knows there is an endless supply of US buyers willing to take a chance on his products.
These pushrods wearing out, sure seem like they're made of softer steel than NOS/OEM. That said, its better for the pushrods to wear than cutting a groove in the camshaft. Perhaps, it's by design.
Is spring tension from the pump at all a factor? Could that be out of spec? I've several engine examples where the engines are several 100K miles and little or no pushrod issue. I've reused these pushrods in a rebuild a number of times, and I cannot recall ever having to replace one after a rebuild. Am I just... lucky?
Add to this, some guy in a communist society (where the divide between the haves and have-nots is very wide) is trying to get ahead by choosing lesser-costing, poorer-hardness steel to save a buck and make more profit.
Unlike a US mom-n-pop store, or a US business, few if any of his end-users will ever be able to contact him and whine about his crummy product. He never has to take responsibility for his selfish choices. And, he doesn't care about repeat customers. He makes an inexpensive product, and he knows there is an endless supply of US buyers willing to take a chance on his products.
These pushrods wearing out, sure seem like they're made of softer steel than NOS/OEM. That said, its better for the pushrods to wear than cutting a groove in the camshaft. Perhaps, it's by design.
Is spring tension from the pump at all a factor? Could that be out of spec? I've several engine examples where the engines are several 100K miles and little or no pushrod issue. I've reused these pushrods in a rebuild a number of times, and I cannot recall ever having to replace one after a rebuild. Am I just... lucky?
Car #4
Well-Known Member
I've heard this theory before. Perhaps some of the other brand pumps are running higher spring pressures than the original pumps, I don't know. Could be a good little research project.
joseph p.
Well-Known Member
guys I think. I figured it out i accidentally bent the aluminum supply line at the bend,,from f pump to engine,,I noticed it last night .must of happened last month when changing the pump and filter,,,I know it has to be it,will let you guys know next week,I'm waiting for new line,happy weekend.
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