Can of rusty worms

[Glenwood]

Best stuff I have used on rust is Corroseal rust converter. Used it on my bumper brackets. Turns the rust black and seems to have a hard finish that can be painted over.
I really hate rust too!!!

I've been using Ospho which does the same thing. I took the bumper brackets off and blasted mine last week. They were really cruddy!

 

[Glenwood]

I ordered new axle bearings from Dr Diff which should be here in a week or so. Until then, I'm dealing with odds & ends.

The cluster and other dash bezels needed attention. A PO sprayed over the fading chrome trim. Wasn't terrible looking really but everything was grey/silver. So I thought I'd give chrome paint a try. The cost to have it done properly ranges from $600US and up. This can be done later if the budget allows at that time. I wanted to see what I could do with it.

I separated the clear lens with a soldering iron. The lens has overspray on it, so I will have to try to polish the plastic. What fun!
The bezels were gently sanded and scraped with a razor blade.

 

[Glenwood]

The first go around looked pretty good. Then I thought I should spray some clear on it to protect it. I chose satin to dull the ribbed silver sections a bit. I should not have sprayed the chrome however. This dulled the chrome and made it look like paint. ugh! It was also lifting of the chrome with tape, so I had to do the chrome sections again! Masking takes hours and then back to scraping. Not fun! Oh well, live and learn.

So after spraying chrome a second time, I sprayed too much around the rectangular openings and it was pooling in the corners. So yep, a third time for this area...

 

[2quick]

Looks real good, I know first hand how hard it can be to spray overhead from under the car.. I was luck enough to be on a rotisserie for most of my paint/Raptor liner work but I did the bottom of the engine bay to the trans mount locked flat so I had to climb under... Its sucked to say the least. Going to have a real nice car when done. I'll be watching.

 

[Glenwood]

I cleaned the overspray off of the clear lens with soap and water. Scrubbing hazed the lens. I was concerned about polishing out the scratches.
I started wetsanding with 1500, 2000, then 3000, followed by polishing. It was a lot of work but it turned out pretty good.

 

[Glenwood]

The heater box was blasted and painted. I ordered the insulation kit from DMT and installed all of the pieces. I had the core pressure checked, so it's now ready to install.

 

[Glenwood]

I was thinking about polishing the chrome and stainless trim pieces, so I put together a buffer using a 3600rpm motor from my old oil furnace combustion blower. Just tested it and seems like it will work okay. It will take some practice to get the hang of it. Needs a switch plate!

 

[Glenwood]

With the decision to repaint the car still up in the air, I may soon turn to the power plant. Look what finally came home after a year!

413 bored to 4.25 (426), decked, align honed, arp main studs.

Original forged crank checked for cracks, turned .010 and polished.

New pistons and rods.

 

[threewood]

With the decision to repaint the car still up in the air, I may soon turn to the power plant. Look what finally came home after a year!

413 bored to 4.25 (426), decked, align honed, arp main studs.

View attachment 402997

Original forged crank checked for cracks, turned .010 and polished.

View attachment 402998

New pistons and rods.

View attachment 403000
View attachment 403001

Very nice!!!
What pistons are those? What heads are you going to use? Those rods look pretty stout too.

 

[2quick]

oooohhhh!!!!!

 

[Glenwood]

Looks real good, I know first hand how hard it can be to spray overhead from under the car.. I was luck enough to be on a rotisserie for most of my paint/Raptor liner work but I did the bottom of the engine bay to the trans mount locked flat so I had to climb under... Its sucked to say the least. Going to have a real nice car when done. I'll be watching.

Thanks 2quick,, I hope the final product turns out nice.

 

[Glenwood]

Very nice!!!
What pistons are those? What heads are you going to use? Those rods look pretty stout too.

They are from Carrillo. I haven't decided on the heads yet. I have a set of used 906 heads that were redone with only 10K on them. The have dual springs already as well as hardened seats. I also have a set of 452s that I may experiment with porting if I can find a template. No one seems to sell them anymore. I may very well buy some aluminum heads if I can find the dollars for them. I like the idea of buying a set and sending them to IQ52 for work but it all adds up quick. The 40% exchange rate + 13% tax, not to mention shipping cost, isn't helping either.
I'm anxious to put the short block together as it will be my first!

 

[Glenwood]

The axle bearing finally came in from Dr Diff. Here's a few pics.
Don't have a proper seal puller but a few light taps with this slide hammer worked fine.

 

[Glenwood]

I used a ball joint socket to tap the new inner seals in. Kept checking to ensure I was tapping them in straight.

Applied a little RTV.

 

[Glenwood]

Off with the old timkens.

The new Green style bearing were pressed on to the shafts after a little cleanup. I forgot to take pics of them....

 

[Glenwood]

I have been concerned about oil pan clearance with my original K frame. I was looking into swapping it with a late 60's that I saw for sale locally but I couldn't get my hands on it fast enough unfortunately.
I ended up with a 187 pan from the machine shop. They lost my original pan, but the 187 & 699 pans have chamfered corners, so I popped in a spare 440 I have to check the fit. I planned to try this several weeks ago, but when I went to use my hoist, the ram failed to lift the short block! Thankfully it was still under a 2 year warranty and it was replaced by a new one. It took nearly three weeks to get it back.

Meanwhile, I had to replace the brake lines on my old Dodge Ram Sport. I really hate rust at this point! lol

Here's a few pics of the oil pan.

It is not touching but I think it is a little too close for comfort, so I'll probably trim the K-frame a bit.

 

[miller]

Think that pan is out of a C body. Not that it matters.

That's one heck of a slide hammer!

 

[Glenwood]

Yep you're right Miller, it's from a C body. The one they lost was from the 1970 spare 440 I have, also a C body, but the pan was a different shape. This one works with the 440's stock oil pick up too. I have a 699 as well which has a baffle, but the 187 does not.

I bought that slide hammer to fix the kids civic back in the summer. I didn't see the point of buying another just to pop two seals. Worked fine, just had to be careful not to score the axle tube.

 

[Glenwood]

The pig is in! I'm getting closer to lowering this car onto it's wheels.

Lots of fun installing this heavy pig but wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.

 

[Glenwood]

Now for the axles with new green style bearings.