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Can of rusty worms

I almost died installing mine by myself. That beast is heavier than you would think!

What's your gear ratio?
 
threewood said:
I almost died installing mine by myself. That beast is heavier than you would think!

What's your gear ratio?
Click to expand...

3.55
Torque converter was tweaked to about 2400 so now time to figure out cam&head combo
1491159653335-1963637081.jpg
1491159680854-1146968239.jpg
 
UGH . . . I just put the transmission back in my 4x4 daily driver truck . . . still got the bruises from wrestling it up onto the jack so I could get it in place ( made a nice little adaptation to my floor jack and it worked like a champ - installed it by myself )

Here's what I do - maybe this can help you out too ( or a couple friend that want to wrestle it with you )

sm_installtrans01-jpg.400945


Add plywood - for full coverage . . .

sm_installtrans02-jpg.400946


Then add transmission ( wrestling it was "fun" . . . )

sm_installtrans03-jpg.400947


Of course I was on the ground -
 
conv67bdere said:
UGH . . . I just put the transmission back in my 4x4 daily driver truck . . . still got the bruises from wrestling it up onto the jack so I could get it in place ( made a nice little adaptation to my floor jack and it worked like a champ - installed it by myself )

Here's what I do - maybe this can help you out too ( or a couple friend that want to wrestle it with you )
Add plywood - for full coverage . . .
Then add transmission ( wrestling it was "fun" . . . )
Of course I was on the ground -
Click to expand...

Thanks Larry. I saw your posts about your tranny re&re, clever idea with the jack! It was actually not difficult just on the jack plate. It would be tough with the 727 though. I bought a used tranny adapter for the jack for $20! I hope it works well if I ever get to install it.
 
Love it, when a game plan comes together. Looking great!
Maybe one of these days, I can spend more time on mine. Bottom of the totum pole stuff.
 
Well i slid the axles in to check but they seem to butt up against the thrust block with thw right side having about 1/4" to go. I push it in and it springs back. Is that normal? I could bolt it down but I'd have to hold it there to get the nuts started.
 
Glenwood said:
Well i slid the axles in to check but they seem to butt up against the thrust block with thw right side having about 1/4" to go. I push it in and it springs back. Is that normal? I could bolt it down but I'd have to hold it there to get the nuts started.
Click to expand...

If you are using green bearings, you do not use the thrust block!
 
Some of the other guys will have to chime in, on the axle thing, since your using green bearings. I 'think' (gettin' dangerous) there's something about taking the axle 'block', out of the third member. Don't take that to the bank.
 
threewood said:
If you are using green bearings, you do not use the thrust block!
Click to expand...

According to dr diff, only the clutch style thrust buttons have to come out. He told me the block can be left in the cone style I have. I'm starting to doubt it though. I plan to measure it today to see if i can make sense of it.
 
Glenwood said:
According to dr diff, only the clutch style thrust buttons have to come out. He told me the block can be left in the cone style I have. I'm starting to doubt it though. I plan to measure it today to see if i can make sense of it.
Click to expand...

Cass would know. I am going off everything I have heard. It is not needed as the green bearings are set in the axle housing without adjustment. Call him and double check as I would hate for you to have to pull that chunk out.
 
Looks like it is to do with the way the oring seats in the housing. I measured both sides and there is approx 1/8" clearance per side so it's not the thrust block. Both orings seem to want to go so far in and then resist. I greased the outer shell and housing before inserting thr first time.

I decided to measure inside the housing ends and they seem to be tapered approx .0075" within about 3/4" from the housing flange. This would explain the resistance of the oring the deeper the bearing is inserted. I sent Cass an email.
 
Glenwood said:
Looks like it is to do with the way the oring seats in the housing. I measured both sides and there is approx 1/8" clearance per side so it's not the thrust block. Both orings seem to want to go so far in and then resist. I greased the outer shell and housing before inserting thr first time.

I decided to measure inside the housing ends and they seem to be tapered approx .0075" within about 3/4" from the housing flange. This would explain the resistance of the oring the deeper the bearing is inserted. I sent Cass an email.
Click to expand...
So, if you take the o-ring off do the axles go in without springing back? The c clip on the outside groove is what the retainer sits on to hold the axle in the tube? Did you put in inner seals in the axle housing? To me it seems if you used the inner seals that the o-ring on the bearing is redundant, unless it is also used to keep the outer race from spinning as well. Just thinking outloud as I have never installed these bearings...
 
threewood said:
So, if you take the o-ring off do the axles go in without springing back? The c clip on the outside groove is what the retainer sits on to hold the axle in the tube? Did you put in inner seals in the axle housing? To me it seems if you used the inner seals that the o-ring on the bearing is redundant, unless it is also used to keep the outer race from spinning as well. Just thinking outloud as I have never installed these bearings...
Click to expand...

That's a good idea, I'll try to remove them and see if they slide in snug without resistance. Cass thinks it is air trapped when sliding the axle in, but that should force out when I tap the axle in with a malet?...it doesn't. I did use inner seals but I think the oring does keep the bearing from spinning.
 
Glenwood said:
That's a good idea, I'll try to remove them and see if they slide in snug without resistance. Cass thinks it is air trapped when sliding the axle in, but that should force out when I tap the axle in with a malet?...it doesn't. I did use inner seals but I think the oring does keep the bearing from spinning.
Click to expand...

Doesn't make sense as there is a breather mounted in the top, on the brake block. But I guess you could crack open the diff plug and try.
 
threewood said:
Doesn't make sense as there is a breather mounted in the top, on the brake block. But I guess you could crack open the diff plug and try.
Click to expand...

It's out actually. I haven't added oil yet. I'm pretty sure it's a tight fit with the oring. Maybe slipping it off will prove it.
 
Checked with the oring off and the axle slides in fine without resistance. Oring back on and it holds it back. Tapping with a heavier hammer & wood makes no difference. I believe this issue is being caused by either a tight bore when the oring is compressing or possibly air between the inner seal and oring. I don't think I'll worry about it too much more at this point and bolt them up. That is after I solve a new problem...

So this '70 rear end came with 3" studs the PO pressed in for drag racing. I pressed them out and picked up some stock length Dorman studs. Well they are too small of a diameter and I can nearly push in with my thumb. When pressed in, they pop out easily. I checked the spec on Dorman's catalog and they are supposed to be correct. The drag studs are slightly wider at .06785 over the new Dormans I measured at .6655 diameter (knurl). The Dorman part number says it is supposed to be .6730 diameter, so are these are not to their own spec I guess. Does anyone make studs with tight tolerances?
 
Bet you get tired of hearing from me!

Two evil thoughts...on the o-rings...maybe find some with same diameter, but not as thick.
On the studs...when I built mine, found new studs at one of the local parts house, but they were not Dorman stuff. Not too impressed with their parts. Hope the studs you pulled out weren't oversize.
 
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