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CAN REPAINT BE AS DURABLE AS FACTORY?

Frankb

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I have an 07 2500 ram. It looks like the clear is deteriorating . Getting splotchy spots on hood and roof. Truck is kept outside. I think the Arizona sun is the cause of this. Its a low mileage, 80K with 5.9 Cummins so I don't want to sell. So, is it possible to get factory durability from an aftermarket paint job? Thanks
 
Back in the day, no repaint would be as durable.
Now, a good quality repaint can be.
The key for the best paint, is to have the total film as thin as possible
Bare metal, with epoxy primer sealer, base to hide and 2 coats of clear.
Obviously, repairs require primer surfacer, maybe filler.
The idea is thin paint does not fracture from small rock chips as much as a thick film. And less expansion and contraction.
Your dodge has water base paint if made in USA(canada), and solvent base if made in mexico. Up here, water base would peel first.
But the arizona sun will kill them all.
 
body shops use eraser wheels to remove pin stripe and such during paint prep.....I never seen it hurt factory paint, but it seems to rip the paint off anything non factory ........ so I would say no
 
body shops use eraser wheels to remove pin stripe and such during paint prep.....I never seen it hurt factory paint, but it seems to rip the paint off anything non factory ........ so I would say no
So wait, no chance of just respraying a clear over factory paint?
 
I'd sure give another shot of clear over what you have, before I'd consider a full repaint.
Buy the best clear you can afford. Nothing is cheap anymore.
(I've seen clear coat fixes on you tube. Seems feasible)
 
body shops use eraser wheels to remove pin stripe and such during paint prep.....I never seen it hurt factory paint, but it seems to rip the paint off anything non factory ........ so I would say no
I tried an eraser wheel on my (gaw doffel) stick on flames. Didn't do richard.
 
Dont bother spraying more clear over your blotchy factory clear. It won’t cover the blotchy spots and it will peel because the factory clear is releasing from the base. Ask me how I know. Repaint is your only option.
 
I removed the adhesive vinyl lettering on the front of my Red Wagon about 4 years ago.....paint was around 11 years old.... PPG Delfleet.

I started with the heat gun method, but that was proving painful.....then I switched to a Caramel Wheel (Eraser Wheel) and that worked well. Took most of the sticky residue also. Cleaned up with a mix of Turps and Wax & Grease Remover. A quick buff with some compound and looks like there was never anything there.

On the OP's problem....a good paint job done on a vehicle can be just as good if not better than factory - depends on the person doing the work, the preparation being done and the conditions the vehicle lives in.
Clears coats on factory paint are notorious for peeling off - especially if you live in a high sunshine/UV climate. I see particularly modern cars like Honda's and Toyota's all over the place with blistering clear coats. I have a Falcon with absolutely no clear coat left - looks matt silver now. The car is not worth re-painting at all.....I'd be better off if someone stole it. :rolleyes: It all started with the UV here.....and of course the knob-jockey who applied a clear bra on the hood .....P.O.
The plastic wing on the trunk lid looks like someone with a bad case of sunburn....peeling skin all over.
 
So wait, no chance of just respraying a clear over factory paint?

If you have factory single stage paint, usually red, white, or black up to a certian year, and no failure just dull. Yes.
If clear is failing, No.
The OP had failing clear and I recommended strip to metal, epoxy primer, base and 2 coats of clear.
He hasn't commented on any of our suggestions though.
 
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