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Car keeps stalling when I put it in reverse

dave5237

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Hi guys. ( 68 GTX 440 ) Well I put the car up on jack stands and was gonna go through the gears. EVERY TIME I PUT IT IN REVERSE. IT STALLS. CAN NOT EVEN MAKE IT INTO NEUTRAL WITH OUT IT STALLING Think I need to warm it up real good ? Thanks. The car seems to start hard and then when I waited 10 minutes could not get it re-start ( was back firing a little bit. Started up right away after it stalled 3 times trying to put it in reverse. I am wondering if it is carburetor. It is a carter AFB. Carburetor was just rebuilt but put the elec. choke back to dead center on the lines ( not sure if this is right but thats were it was before. Timing was set at factory settings.
 
Yes. Stock converter. Has not hit the road after the total restoration. Wanted to test the gears before it hit the street and I had to push it. Maybe it is low on tranny fluid. The wheels start to turn and then it stalls. The only thing I can think of is it is not warmed up and is idling to low.
 
was it running well..no issues before putting on stands ? what was done? does it start ok when warm ??....butterfly closed on cold start? open when warm ?
 
ALWAYS BEEN A HARD COLD START. Rebuilt to somewhat stock specs. One cam up from stock ( LUNATI CAM ). Started o.k every time it stalled. Then went in house for ten minutes and could not get it to start ( HAD TO BE FLOODED THIS IS A ELECTRIC CHOKE SET IN THE MIDDLE ). Butterfly is slammed shut on start. It wants gas on start-up because if I were to give it a cold start. I would have to spray it a shot of starting fluid and she would cough and burn off the gas and die. Everything else is stock. A little more peppy on the converter to make it more responsive. Stock pistons,new rings, new lifters. I WOULD NOT THINK IT NEEDS TO BE WARMED UP TO PUT IT IN GEAR THOUGH. GETS A SHOT OF GAS IN CARB WHEN YOU HIT THE GAS SO IT IS NOT BLED OUT OF BOWL. WONDER IF IT IS THE MIXTURE SCREWS ? TRANNY TOTALLY REBUILT WITH BOLT IN SPRAGUE AND HOLE DRILLED OUT FOR SOMETHING ( I DID NOT DO TRANNY REBUILD ) HAS NOT SEEN ROAD SINCE REBUILD ( BEEN 12 YRS). THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP
 
did the car run well begore the rebuild on carb as far as going from park to reverse ??
Why was it up on the stands and what was done before this issue? From what was submitted...I would try eliminating the choke...mopars are cold blooded BUT if You pump it enough it should start...most likely die if You don't have the proper right mopar foot(lol)to keep it running. Give the car a few minutes to warm and then see what happens when engaging reverse. What's the idle at ?? cold/warm ? Need to know condition of vehicle before carb rebuild...what prompted that ? Anything else done besides carb ? Converter "should" be ok for a mild upgrade
 
But I don't see any reason to eliminate the choke. If it's set up right, they work well. Timing set by the book? Uh, that was good for back when they were new and we had good gas. I set mine where they like to run the best and usually start with 10* advanced and adjust from there if needed. Hasn't been on the street in 12 years? Fuel lines and take clean and you have a good filter on it? Do the basics first. Test fuel psi, make sure the choke is closed when cold. It should set itself to the closed position when the engine is cold and you crack open the throttle then when the engine starts, the vacuum dash pot should pull it open a bit so it will stay running and at a higher idle. Sounds to me that you may not have this right.....? How low does it idle when you start it?
 
I suggested isolating the choke as it appears the only thing done was a carb re-build...I'm "assuming" the car ran ok as far as engaging reverse before the build. More info on car condition before build is needed...I don't see anything about timing change before or after carb.....I usually go back to the last thing I did before I screwed up. lol
 
did the car run well begore the rebuild on carb as far as going from park to reverse ??
Why was it up on the stands and what was done before this issue? From what was submitted...I would try eliminating the choke...mopars are cold blooded BUT if You pump it enough it should start...most likely die if You don't have the proper right mopar foot(lol)to keep it running. Give the car a few minutes to warm and then see what happens when engaging reverse. What's the idle at ?? cold/warm ? Need to know condition of vehicle before carb rebuild...what prompted that ? Anything else done besides carb ? Converter "should" be ok for a mild upgrade

Yes but the transmission was fully rebuilt and this is what I tore it down to so you can get a idea. On jack stands because It has not seen the road in 12 yrs and everything has been rebuilt. Did not want to take it out on the street and have a issue.
 

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But I don't see any reason to eliminate the choke. If it's set up right, they work well. Timing set by the book? Uh, that was good for back when they were new and we had good gas. I set mine where they like to run the best and usually start with 10* advanced and adjust from there if needed. Hasn't been on the street in 12 years? Fuel lines and take clean and you have a good filter on it? Do the basics first. Test fuel psi, make sure the choke is closed when cold. It should set itself to the closed position when the engine is cold and you crack open the throttle then when the engine starts, the vacuum dash pot should pull it open a bit so it will stay running and at a higher idle. Sounds to me that you may not have this right.....? How low does it idle when you start it?

Dont have a tac in the car but she is slammed shut for a while till she heats up. Here is a video of how it sounds when I started it up for the third time ( ALL GLASS AND INTERIOR IS NOW IN ). YOU TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK. THANKS.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsRDN8ETUP4
 
Does it stall when you put it in drive? Or just reverse? Can you start it in neutral and move to drive or reverse and see what happens?
 
I have to agree with cranky. It sounds like the pull-off is not adjusted properly or not working at all.

All the choke needs to do is close fully when cold and hitting the accelerator to set it. It should not be overly tight.

You never said if the stalling occurs after the engine is warmed up.
Ron
 
Does it stall when you put it in drive? Or just reverse? Can you start it in neutral and move to drive or reverse and see what happens?

Hello. I never seem to make it into drive before it stalls and I will have to warm it up and real good and try. I WILL RE ADJUST THE CHOKE OR CHECK IT WHEN IT WARMS UP. AS FOR THE STARTING IT UP IN NEUTRAL. The last to time I tried that there was a popping or sparking noise and I dont think this car will let you start it in neutral. THANKS EVERYONE. NEED TO GET THROUGH THIS SO I CAN DRIVE MY CAR. SEEMS LIKE THE LAST HURDLE. ONE MORE QUESTION. IF I AM LOW ON FLUID WILL THIS KIND OF THING HAPPEN ? THANKS.
 
Hello. I never seem to make it into drive before it stalls and I will have to warm it up and real good and try. I WILL RE ADJUST THE CHOKE OR CHECK IT WHEN IT WARMS UP. AS FOR THE STARTING IT UP IN NEUTRAL. The last to time I tried that there was a popping or sparking noise and I dont think this car will let you start it in neutral. THANKS EVERYONE. NEED TO GET THROUGH THIS SO I CAN DRIVE MY CAR. SEEMS LIKE THE LAST HURDLE. ONE MORE QUESTION. IF I AM LOW ON FLUID WILL THIS KIND OF THING HAPPEN ? THANKS.

The car should start in neutral the same as if it were in park. Try this, turn key to run position, with engine off, and place shifter in reverse. See if the reverse lights are on. If not, double check shift linkage adjustment. Then check the neutral safety switch wiring. The neutral safety switch goes to the starter relay. Next to the master cylinder. Make sure you have that on the right terminal of the relay. And check the switch with an ohmmeter too. Also you should check to make sure the wires are going to the right terminals on the NSS. Do you have new wiring or the original harness?
 
Oh, you could also try and start in reverse, drive 2 and 1. Just make sure foot is on brake if it starts.if it start or even cranks in any gear you know you have a NSS problem
 
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