Car keeps stalling when I put it in reverse

[oldbee]

Dave-watched the 2nd video.. #1-didn't hear a fast idle when cold(800-1000rpm?).#2- after running for 5-7 min. the choke should definitely be wide open..#3-I can't help but think that you still have vacuum leak somewhere,although the engine sounds pretty good when idling. Fast idle screw, I think, is on left side close to throttle shaft.1/4" head on it if I remember right.Screw it clockwise to raise fast idle speed. #4-elec. choke getting 12volts to heat it up?

 

[dave5237]

Dave-maybe your choke linkage is binding up somewhere OR ur choke coil is just tired and needs replaced. Usually doesn't take much to get a choke working right. Per my O.E. shop manual---timing for auto's should be 7.5 BTDC..Seems I always ran mine at 8-10.I was usually drag racing, so I usually went for total timing figure of 38-40deg., I think.

Dave-watched the 2nd video.. #1-didn't hear a fast idle when cold(800-1000rpm?).#2- after running for 5-7 min. the choke should definitely be wide open..#3-I can't help but think that you still have vacuum leak somewhere,although the engine sounds pretty good when idling. Fast idle screw, I think, is on left side close to throttle shaft.1/4" head on it if I remember right.Screw it clockwise to raise fast idle speed. #4-elec. choke getting 12volts to heat it up?

Hmmm. 12v for choke. There is a wire on the side of the choke but with the key turned (not started ) I PUT MY POS. WIRE FROM MY METER ON THAT WIRE AND GROUND THE OTHER WIRE TO MY METER TO NEG. TO BATT. AND CANNOT GET 12V. There is a spot for a wire but no wire connected to it. Tough to see on the side of choke but there is a bare connector there. There is a white wire but it grounds to the top of the carb. It is bare. Choke coil looks fine. The linkage looks fine. I dont think I need 12v to this choke. It has a choke tube that you can see in the picture.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Ok, you will need 12 volts to coil with the engine running. Power should come from a source that is ononly there with the key on.
What is the big vacuum port that is open right behind the choke in the picture?
Once that is squared away, give it a try again. With it cold, the choke spring should be turned just enough to close the flap. You can run a temporary jumper wire to the choke from the battery and watch it open.
I would leave the air cleaner off too. Set that aside for the time being.
Once its warmed up and the choke is open all the way, then you can get to the business of tuning the carb. Try and get that tach operating too
Once warm, make sure its of fast idle. Idle should be in the 800 to 900 range.
When turning the mixture screws, you only need to turn them 1/2 a turn at a time.
Turn 1 screw in til the idle drops down. At only 2 and a half turns out already, you should only need to go 1/2 to 1 turn. Then start backing it out a half a turn at a time. You should notice the rpm rise and it should smooth out a little with each turn. Then you should notice that the last half turn you made had no effect. No noticeable change in idle or rpm. At that point, turn the screw back in 1/2.and then do the same to the other screw. You may need to go back and forth a little to fine tune it. Once that is done, check idle speed again. You may have to give the screws that extra half turn. You will be able to tell after you drive it.
Might also want to check spark plugs. They may be a little fouled after all the starting and stopping

 

[dave5237]

Ok, you will need 12 volts to coil with the engine running. Power should come from a source that is ononly there with the key on.
What is the big vacuum port that is open right behind the choke in the picture?
Once that is squared away, give it a try again. With it cold, the choke spring should be turned just enough to close the flap. You can run a temporary jumper wire to the choke from the battery and watch it open.
I would leave the air cleaner off too. Set that aside for the time being.
Once its warmed up and the choke is open all the way, then you can get to the business of tuning the carb. Try and get that tach operating too
Once warm, make sure its of fast idle. Idle should be in the 800 to 900 range.
When turning the mixture screws, you only need to turn them 1/2 a turn at a time.
Turn 1 screw in til the idle drops down. At only 2 and a half turns out already, you should only need to go 1/2 to 1 turn. Then start backing it out a half a turn at a time. You should notice the rpm rise and it should smooth out a little with each turn. Then you should notice that the last half turn you made had no effect. No noticeable change in idle or rpm. At that point, turn the screw back in 1/2.and then do the same to the other screw. You may need to go back and forth a little to fine tune it. Once that is done, check idle speed again. You may have to give the screws that extra half turn. You will be able to tell after you drive it.
Might also want to check spark plugs. They may be a little fouled after all the starting and stopping

From all the reading on the carb I have read. It says the spring opens from that hose I have pictured running to the choke. I guess heat through that hose opens the spring. If not. Where do I hook up my 12v. To the open term. on choke pictured here? I did the mixture screw thing you talked about and she was purring as a kitten from my second video but still stalled out in gear. Do you think my tranny is locking up. Thanks

 

[Hemi Rebel]

From all the reading on the carb I have read. It says the spring opens from that hose I have pictured running to the choke. I guess heat through that hose opens the spring. If not. Where do I hook up my 12v. To the open term. on choke pictured here? I did the mixture screw thing you talked about and she was purring as a kitten from my second video but still stalled out in gear. Do you think my tranny is locking up. Thanks

Exactly, that terminal should have battery voltage supplied to it. Do you have any wire laying around? Just for now, run a wire straight from battery positive to that terminal. Without the car even running or the key on. I will take the chance that the choke is not shorted. If that wire starts to get real hot pull it off ok! Seriously though. Hook that wire up and watch the choke open. If she is purring like a kitten with the choke closed and warmed up then it has to be lean. keep working at it, you will get it

 

[oldbee]

'Hemi'--that port is the vent for fuel bowl vapors...Love the EPA. Dave your 12v to other prong on choke can come from anywhere that's key operated. Will the engine stall when going in to drive also? or just reverse? I still think you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Also,what's the 3/8"(?) steel line directly behind the carb going in to the intake,just curious.Jeff

 

[Hemi Rebel]

'Hemi'--that port is the vent for fuel bowl vapors...Love the EPA. Dave your 12v to other prong on choke can come from anywhere that's key operated. Will the engine stall when going in to drive also? or just reverse? I still think you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Also,what's the 3/8"(?) steel line directly behind the carb going in to the intake,just curious.Jeff

The 3/8 line behind carb is to the brake booster. And that port that is now plugged shouldnt be the bowl vent. More like evaporative emissions canister purge port i think.

 

[dave5237]

Hello all. UPDATE... So I turn the key to on and get 12v straight from my battery pos. and touch the terminal on the side of choke WITH THE CAR NOT RUNNING and nothing happens. HEMI-REBEL STATES THE CAR SHOULD BE RUNNING with 12v. Is THIS CORRECT? THE CAR IS RUNNING FINE WITH THE CHOKE OPEN EVEN THOUGH I HAVE TO FORCE IT OPEN BECAUSE NO 12V GOING TO IT. Also The car NEVER MAKES IT TO DRIVE WITHOUT STALLING. Car DOES start in neutral. COULD THIS VACUUM LINE BE MY PROBLEM ( lots of vacuum running through this line. Will try to eliminate this line just FOR A TEST. Thanks

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Its going to take a few minutes for the choke to open once it gets power. Just hook a power wire up and leave it hooked up. Once hooked up permanently, you will want it to only get power with key on.
As far as the booster goes, with the engine running, simply press and holdthe pedal. Does the engine rpm change? then pump the pedal several times. This should make the engine rpm rise. Also, can you notice a difference in how stiff the pedal feels with the engine off as opposed to running?
One more easy thing to try is pinch off the vacuum line to booster with engine running and see if engine rpm drops. That would be another obvious sign the booster is bad

 

[dave5237]

Hello all. So the choke problem we think we got figured out. Still cant get my second tach to work. Hooked the pos. wire on tach to pos. on coil and grounded the black ( dont know what is wrong here). Runs fine in park with CHOKE FULLY OPEN. Made a video but the same thing is HAPPENING. stalling when put in gear but with THE VACUUM LINE PINCHED TO THE BRAKE BOOSTER SHE SEEMS TO LAUNCH A BIT IN REVERSE BECAUSE I CANT HOLD THE BRAKES HARD ENOUGH ( BELIEVE ME WHEN I SAY MY R.P.M,S ARE HIGH ENOUGH. SHE WANTS TO LAUNCH OUT OF THE GARAGE WHEN PUT IN REVERSE. This car should run with my foot on the brake. Now Where do I turn to? Thanks.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Tach only has 2 wires? I would at least expect 3. Power wire going to battery positive. Ground wire, and signal wire should go to NEGATIVE terminal on coil

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Question, when you set the timing, did you have the vacuum advance line off the distributor and blocked?

 

[dave5237]

Question, when you set the timing, did you have the vacuum advance line off the distributor and blocked?

I think it is time to get it back on jack stands and show everyone what it does on stands. Going out of State all week and wont get back to it till Sat. but keep all the good ideas or comments. I called the guy who rebuilt the tranny. He says get under the car and make sure that it is in gear on the indents because this could cause this if it is not set right ( the tranny ). Thanks again guys.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

I dont see how an out of adjustment shift linkage will cause a stalling condition. Dragging or slipping yes, but not stopping the engine. The only time i have seen a torque converter cause an engine to stall is when a lock up converter was stuck in lock up. So basically it was the equivalent of side stepping the clutch in a manual transmission car at idle with your foot on the brake when it was put in drive. Since you do not have a lock up torque converter, that is not even a consideration. And i cant imagine you got the engine and transmission together and the converter bolted to the flexplate without having the converter completely seated in the front pump. This is why i dont see it as being a transmission/ converter issue.
To be sure though, put it back up on stands and put it in gear WITHOUT foot on the brake. If it doesnt stall, ease onto brakes. See if it starts to drag the engine down.

And get that tachometer hooked up. And if at all possible get a vacuum guage.

 

[Ron of Chicago]

For all practical purposes the voltage to the choke should only be applied when the engine is running. That way if the key is on and the engine is not running the choke will not heat up and open. The best way to accomplish that is to take a wire from your stator on the alternator and run it to the choke. If you apply 12 volts to the choke housing and have a good ground, the choke should open, if not, the choke stat is bad, period. You can apply 12 volt battery voltage to the bare terminal and watch the choke open for test purposes.
You say the car runs good at idle, choke open and idle not to high. Do you have a vacuum gauge connected to the car? It can tell you a lot about the condition of the engine i.e. timing, lean condition or vacuum leaks, engine condition.

Also, you state it was fine before the rebuild process, then Converter hop up? Shift kit? And something about a bolt in Sprag and a drilled hole for???????????? Do you know the rebuilder? Have you talked to any transmission people about that?

Ron

 

[dave5237]

Hello all. Well after nearly ruining my night with this car stalling a buddy of mine over the phone said start the car and look into the carb with a mirror. WELL I DID AND THERE WAS A LOT OF GAS TRICKLING THROUGH THE BRASS SQUIRTERS ON EACH SIDE OF CARB. He says this should NOT be doing this. Is THIS A SIGN THAT MY FLOATS ARE NOT SET RIGHT LIKE HE SAYS. THANKS.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Hello all. Well after nearly ruining my night with this car stalling a buddy of mine over the phone said start the car and look into the carb with a mirror. WELL I DID AND THERE WAS A LOT OF GAS TRICKLING THROUGH THE BRASS SQUIRTERS ON EACH SIDE OF CARB. He says this should NOT be doing this. Is THIS A SIGN THAT MY FLOATS ARE NOT SET RIGHT LIKE HE SAYS. THANKS.

I dont see it as a float issue. If the float was too high or stuck you would have a serious flooding issue. It would run like crap even in park. To me this is a good indicator the carb is not operating on the low speed idle circuit. The idle adjust screw is set so the throttle blades are open too far, this allows too much air to pull past the boosters. This is where you are seeing gas dribble out. I would try and search the net for tuning guides for that carb. Im no carter expert by any means, but i do know they can be tuned for performance engines with bigger cams.

 

[oldbee]

Dave- the brass squirters should be for the accel. pump. I don't see how gas can be trickling out of them. You might try lowering the fuel floats a couple 32's or so and see. And old trick to get the low speed circuits into play was drill a 1/32(?) hole in the throttle plates to let more air thru the carb. BUT, it doesn't sound like that's your problem.

 

[Ron 73]

Here is a link that may help you Dave.. Good luck!

http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/tech/Carter/AFB-AVS-index.html

One more..
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm

And.. Hope these help out
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0304_af_carburetor_reviews_and_tuning_parts/index.html

 

[Ron of Chicago]

I agree with Hemi Rebel 100%. Make sure that the throttle plates are closing all the way. That means that the idle RPM should be around 800 or 900 in Neutral. If you can not get the idle down you have to figure out why. Either the plates are binding in their bore not allowing them to seat or there is a vacuum leak and not allowing you to lower the idle far enough. Have you put a vacuum gauge on it yet? I'm not sure where you are seeing the gas dribble from but it is possible that the float is to high. If that were the case though, you should see the gas continue to dribble after the car is off because of the residual pressure in the line. Also possible is a leaky or bad needle and seat not allowing the fuel to shut off when the bowl is full.
It sounds like you are getting a little closer to the cause. Never lose faith, you'll find the answers. Keep up the good work.
Ron