Car keeps stalling when I put it in reverse

[dave5237]

The car should start in neutral the same as if it were in park. Try this, turn key to run position, with engine off, and place shifter in reverse. See if the reverse lights are on. If not, double check shift linkage adjustment. Then check the neutral safety switch wiring. The neutral safety switch goes to the starter relay. Next to the master cylinder. Make sure you have that on the right terminal of the relay. And check the switch with an ohmmeter too. Also you should check to make sure the wires are going to the right terminals on the NSS. Do you have new wiring or the original harness?

Thanks. I have a new wiring harness. I know when I started it in neutral the first time I tried to get it going for the first time I heard a lot of popping or sparking. I just figured I could not do this. YOU MAY BE ON TO SOMETHING. Will try this today.

 

[Jim Bob The Dancing Bear]

I don't have my neutral safety switch hooked up in my car. Thus far I have only tried to start it in drive once.

 

[dave5237]

Hello all. So I start the car up today and do some of the things YOU ALL SUGGESTED ( sorry if I cant remember who said what ). I set the timing a little higher to 10 deg. BTD. Let the car warm up real good and the CHOKE NEVER FULLY OPENED WHEN HOT ( WHEN I FORCED IT OPEN WITH THE HEAT SPRING ADJUSTER ON SIDE OF CARB SHE STALLS). This is telling me she wants more gas and is running to LEAN and need to adjust the mixing screws. AM I RIGHT ON THAT ? Second thing is that I finally got it into reverse but had to feather the crap out of the accelerator to keep it from stalling at first but the wheels spin ( REVERSE LIGHTS COME ON ). THE CAR SEEMS TO GRIND THE TRANSMISSION WHEN I GO BACK INTO PARK AND HAPPENED TWICE( THIS IS TELLING ME THE LINKAGE NEEDS ADJUSTMENT ) RIGHT? I DOUBLE CHECKED THE NEUTRAL SAFETY WIRE AND IT IS IS HOOKED UP RIGHT. TO RECAP. CAR WOULD NOT START WARMED UP WITH THE CHOKE FULLY OPEN, GRINDS GOING FROM REVERSE BACK INTO PARK. THANKS EVERYONE FOR HELPING ME WITH THIS.

 

[Sixer]

Are you applying the brakes before going into park? This assumes you still have the car in the air. Of course it's gonna grind-the wheels are still spinning. Stalling with the choke off means big vacuum leak or a empty carb. Choke pull off working? Mix screws should have a starting adjustment of 2 1/2 turns out.

 

[dave5237]

Are you applying the brakes before going into park? This assumes you still have the car in the air. Of course it's gonna grind-the wheels are still spinning. Stalling with the choke off means big vacuum leak or a empty carb. Choke pull off working? Mix screws should have a starting adjustment of 2 1/2 turns out.

Hello. Thats a good point. I thought I was ( the car is still in the air ). I could not see if the wheels were moving slowly because I was in the car but I will have to check next time. PROBABLY A BIG VACUUM LEAK BUT WHERE TO START ( YOU MAY BE ABLE TO HEAR IT A COUPLE THREADS BACK ON MY YOU TUBE VIDEO )? because I could hear it I think but cant find it. i THINK IT IS COMING FROM THE CARB. The front ports are capped on the carb. but the big side port I am told does not need to be capped. When you take the air cleaner off it wants to stall sometime. Dont think the carb is empty. tHANKS.

 

[Ron of Chicago]

It sounds like the choke was overtightened to help enrich the fuel. You have an extreme lean condition or fuel starvation situation. If you can get it running you can take a bottle of Mapp gas (most use Propane) and attach a length of hose to the end of it. Very lightly open the bottle (DO NOT light the gas) and run the hose around any place that vacuum can escape from an engine. When you hit the leak, the RPM will increase. Some use cab spray but I would not suggest that as it splashes when it is sprayed and can give a false reading. Also I have seen where engines have caught fire with carb cleaner because of an errant spark. Mapp gas and Propane are heavier then air and will settle in the low areas and have less an opportunity to float in the air and get sucked down the carb.

I also agree with the comment from sixer. If the wheels were not completely stopped you will get the grind.

Ron

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Hello. Thats a good point. I thought I was ( the car is still in the air ). I could not see if the wheels were moving slowly because I was in the car but I will have to check next time. PROBABLY A BIG VACUUM LEAK BUT WHERE TO START ( YOU MAY BE ABLE TO HEAR IT A COUPLE THREADS BACK ON MY YOU TUBE VIDEO )? because I could hear it I think but cant find it. i THINK IT IS COMING FROM THE CARB. The front ports are capped on the carb. but the big side port I am told does not need to be capped. When you take the air cleaner off it wants to stall sometime. Dont think the carb is empty. tHANKS.

The big port on the side is open? It should either be for the brake booster or pcv valve. Definitely not open. When its running, place a finger on the port to see if its pulling vacuum. If so, idle speed should come down a bit. If both the pcv and booster are hooked up, just cap it.

I just went back and watched video. I can see the pcv hooked up but could not tell if booster was or not.

 

[dave5237]

The big port on the side is open? It should either be for the brake booster or pcv valve. Definitely not open. When its running, place a finger on the port to see if its pulling vacuum. If so, idle speed should come down a bit. If both the pcv and booster are hooked up, just cap it.

I just went back and watched video. I can see the pcv hooked up but could not tell if booster was or not.

Hello . The brake booster is hooked up on the big port in the carb in the back. I will try to start the car again today and look for leaks. Thanks

 

[67 coronet]

if you warm the car up(choke open)and put your hand over the carb does the idle speed up?if it does then you have a vac leak and just need to find it like stated above.you can find it with carb spray,but i would use a lower presure can(i will spray the can upside down for a couple of seconds to depresurise)and use a straw extention on the spray nossle for more control of where it goes.short bursts also work good.

 

[dave5237]

Good news. I am making progress with all your help.Plugged the open brake booster port (there was a y in there and one port was open. Also blocked the big port on carburetor. Adjusted the idle mixture screws to 2 1/2 turns back like someone said. Timed the car once again. Adjusted the choke so when it is warmed up it opens fully and now the car runs with the choke wide open after warm-up. Gear does not grind and goes in drive and reverse because I actually could look at the wheels now and see them spinning and I guess I did not realize you have to apply the brakes so hard to get them to stop ( that's why they ground like someone said ). HERE IS STILL THE PROBLEM. I CAN GET IT IN REVERSE BUT WHEN I APPLY THE BRAKES IT STALLS OR HAVE A HARD TIME KEEPING IT GOING ( IS THIS BECAUSE I AM STEALING VACUUM FROM THE CARS ENGINE TO USE IT FOR THE BRAKES? ALSO NOW IT RUNS ON AFTER SHUTTING IGNITION OFF ( THIS IS PROBABLY TIMING BUT WHICH WAY DO I GO TO FIX IT-ADVANCE OR RETARD? ) Thanks

 

[1969CoronetR/T]

dieseling is what my engine called it.

 

[Jim Bob The Dancing Bear]

If you are still running after the ignition is off, it is dieseling and the timing is still off but you are making progress.

 

[67 coronet]

runon is normally a sign of retarded ignition timing.advance it up a bit and retry.does your vac booster keep hissing while the brake pedal is depressed?if so it is bad and is causing a vac leak when in use.the amount of vac used when you push the brake pedal should never be enough to afect the way the car is running,it is just a diaphram and should hold vacuum once applied.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

I think it may be more than timing. How long do you let it run that when you shut it off it runs on? Dieseling occurs because combustion chamber temps are high enough to ignite the fuel once ignition is shut off. Hence the term dieseling. Ignition without spark. We have fresh fuel in it right? Not stuff thats been in the tank for 9 years i hope.;) .i would get a timing light on it first. Then set idle mixture. Make sure all vacuum leaks are taken care off first though. Just remember when tuning, ignition first then fuel. Get the timing set then worry about the carb. Dont try and tweak both at the same time.

 

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

The car should start in neutral the same as if it were in park. Try this, turn key to run position, with engine off, and place shifter in reverse. See if the reverse lights are on. If not, double check shift linkage adjustment. Then check the neutral safety switch wiring. The neutral safety switch goes to the starter relay. Next to the master cylinder. Make sure you have that on the right terminal of the relay. And check the switch with an ohmmeter too. Also you should check to make sure the wires are going to the right terminals on the NSS. Do you have new wiring or the original harness?

I agree with the above, you could have a problem w/ nuetral safety switch.

 

[dave5237]

I think it may be more than timing. How long do you let it run that when you shut it off it runs on? Dieseling occurs because combustion chamber temps are high enough to ignite the fuel once ignition is shut off. Hence the term dieseling. Ignition without spark. We have fresh fuel in it right? Not stuff thats been in the tank for 9 years i hope.;) .i would get a timing light on it first. Then set idle mixture. Make sure all vacuum leaks are taken care off first though. Just remember when tuning, ignition first then fuel. Get the timing set then worry about the carb. Dont try and tweak both at the same time.

Thanks for your help. I found several vacuum leaks ( fixed them ). Redid the timing. Also put a new fuel filter in since I did not know how long the old one was used. Still think a manual choke is the way to go because when hot it does not fully open so when I adjust it to fully open by tweaking it and then I have a problem when it is cold and it does not fully close. Seems like a double edge sword here.

 

[Red63440]

Thanks for your help. I found several vacuum leaks ( fixed them ). Redid the timing. Also put a new fuel filter in since I did not know how long the old one was used. Still think a manual choke is the way to go because when hot it does not fully open so when I adjust it to fully open by tweaking it and then I have a problem when it is cold and it does not fully close. Seems like a double edge sword here.

Sometimes you have to tweek the choke linkage a little to fine tune it.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Thanks for your help. I found several vacuum leaks ( fixed them ). Redid the timing. Also put a new fuel filter in since I did not know how long the old one was used. Still think a manual choke is the way to go because when hot it does not fully open so when I adjust it to fully open by tweaking it and then I have a problem when it is cold and it does not fully close. Seems like a double edge sword here.

At this point how does it do when pulled into gear? I'm not so much concerned about the choke right now. Just so long as it is open all the way when warmed up. Once warm, can you put it in gear without it stalling? Where is the timing at? I try to get as much initial timing in as I can. usually around 10 degrees btdc. +or- 2 degrees any more than that and you may have a hard starting issue when the engine is hot.

 

[dave5237]

Thanks everyone. WILL START IT UP TODAY AND MAY EVEN DRIVE IT FOR THE FIRST TIME. The timing is set at 8 degrees. Seems not to run on now. Will do a little more tweaking today of the carb. Have not put it in gear with the wheels on the ground and when I did it used to stall ( we will see today what happens ) yet but will try it today. Will keep you all updated. THANKS AGAIN ALL.



Well here is another video. You guessed it . IT STALLED WHEN I PUT IT IN GEAR.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0tmQMRhq_k&feature=youtu.be

 

[oldbee]

Dave-maybe your choke linkage is binding up somewhere OR ur choke coil is just tired and needs replaced. Usually doesn't take much to get a choke working right. Per my O.E. shop manual---timing for auto's should be 7.5 BTDC..Seems I always ran mine at 8-10.I was usually drag racing, so I usually went for total timing figure of 38-40deg., I think.