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- Apr 13, 2012
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I will not be crossing the straps when I secure cars. I've seen enough to feel that fore/aft strap methods to be safer.
Mine is 18 feet and I love it. Like take it to meet my parents kind of love.I just used a buddies 14 footer.
IMO.....much MUCH to short for my comfort level.
I plan to buy one of my own in the coming months and it will either be a 16 minimum or maybe 18 footer max.
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In Maryland it's the law...not that it's enforced, but it could come into play if someone was involved in an accident. Doesn't hurt to know your state's laws.I will not be crossing the straps when I secure cars. I've seen enough to feel that fore/aft strap methods to be safer.
My bro in law runs a rollback business and he has those for all his trucks. Where can you get them? Would they fit over an 11" wide tire?B/A products make a real nice strap set that loop over the wheel and tire for each wheel. It also give it a 8pt tie down and will not harm anything. Many new cars the stronger point to tie down is the wheel itself , or a known recovery hook or transport eye in the frame. The wheel strap set also eliminates laying underneath it in the rain. I used it for years on my roll back.
I am not following you. You stated that "It's the law" in Maryland. What specifically? Crossing or not crossing?In Maryland it's the law...not that it's enforced, but it could come into play if someone was involved in an accident. Doesn't hurt to know your state's laws.
Happy trailering!
Crossing.I am not following you. You stated that "It's the law" in Maryland. What specifically? Crossing or not crossing?
Thanks.
Agree! When surge brakes came out - way far back in time- they were an inexpensive way of adding brakes to trailers to keep cost down. There are a few adjustments you can make BUT brakes with a "controller" you CAN control are much better and less frustrating ! Plus you Can adjust how "hard" you want to have the Trailer brakes "to hit" based on the load you have on it at any given time or weather condition.Problem with surge brakes is on a down grade they tend to stay applied...On a short down grade no problem, a long down grade you'll cook the trailer brakes... Then theres that thing about backing up, the brakes tend to apply as you back up, you give I a little throttle & the brakes lock tighter.... Gotta learn to put it in reverse & wait, hopefully the trailer will start to roll backwards... Usually it does but if your on a surface where the trailer resists rolling say grass or gravel, you ain't backing up...
Virg464 lives in a relatively flat state, KD lives at the edge of the Sierras... Worlds apart...
Please watch the video. Straps are designed to have tension in a STRAIGHT LINE. Look at any trailer that is purchased with 'D-RINGS" installed by the manufacture, they ARE NOT at the corners, but where they can be attached in a STRAIGHT LINE to what you are Securing. Do not try and out think Isaac Newton. When and if a strap breaks or loosens the strap the has more tension will pull it in that direction (toward the outside edge of the trailer. You will have a new FORCE acting on your load!I agree with wild rt, I would put 2 at the rear most corners of the trailer, but on the rear angle iron, not the sides, then do the same on the front. X rear and straight on the front and always, always attach to rear axle and lower control arms, never to the frame. The vehicle moves up and down as you tow it, and if attached to the frame, a large bump can dislodge or loosen your straps. I see guys do this at the track and I cringe. I'm one of those few folks that have had a car come off the trailer on the expressway. No one was hurt, car wasn't damaged, but it left a lasting, burned-in impression on my brain. If I ever see any of you at a car show, ask me about it.
Make sure you pay attention to what manufacture says to do to protect that wood deck. I have seen so where they did not and it can get costly. Plus if for any reason you decide to change to anything else, the better it looks the more you will get for it, and if ya find it is perfect for you, maintenance easier and cheaper than repairs.Boom. The day finally came.
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Big Tex 18 footer. I wanted a dove tail but they are harder to find than I thought.
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$4300 plus all the extras......Like a SPARE tire, brake controller....
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Tax and license. All in, $5400. This is a 7000 lb rated unit that weighs 2000 lbs on its own.
I brought out Jigsaw and did a test load.
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I didn't need any tricks to load it. I thought I'd need to back the truck tires onto some ramps or make some extensions for the steel ramps but it went right up.
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NOW I have to find a way to tie the car down. Every time that I have hauled a car before, the trailer had it's own tie downs. This trailer has no D rings, just the stake pockets.
The trailer store had these on the wall:
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They slip into the stake pockets and look like a decent solution for some cargo but I'm not sure I like them for tying down a car. I think I want something lower so the straps don't rub the body on the car being transported.
My dad built homes for a living, as we grew up we worked with him. I do know enough to make myself dangerous. Carpenter - not even close! But I believe that's why the wood "maintenance" is so important. On steel deck or steel ramp trailers they of course weld the d-rings. For those that have them, Would "through" bolting the D-rings and their brackets to the deck work. this is of course is using a very "hard" bolt and it's fasteners? I would guess grade 8 or 10.Thank you.
As a carpenter, I was disappointed in the deck. Structurally it is fine but the gaps between the boards are inconsistent. That really annoys a guy like me.