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Charlies oil pan capacity

Racer1210

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New to using an oil pan without provisions for dip stick. At what point on the inside of this oil pan is oil level full.

Thanks in advanced, Larry

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I would ask someone at Charlie's, not anyone on here. You will get everyone else's opinions, which may or not be correct.
 
I would ask someone at Charlie's, not anyone on here. You will get everyone else's opinions, which may or not be correct.
if all else fails , you could measure qts of water and figure out the level compared to the crankshaft , so as not to interfere /or being overfull. on the bench of course ...
 
I believe on a factory OEM oil pan, the "full" mark on the indicator falls near the top lip of the oil pan. So in theory, if you measure how much water it takes to fill your oil pan to the top, you'll have a good idea of it's capacity.

That said, I've heard some say the purpose of the deeper oil pans is not to hold more oil, per se, but designed to move the full level further down and away from the crank shaft. Doing so allows you to run more oil without a windage problem. So it's hard to say if you still want to run it with the oil level at the top of the oil pan.

The maker of the oil pan will know what the capacity it's supposed to be.

Maybe I'm paranoid, but I don't like the idea of running an engine without a dipstick. I may, after changing the oil numerous times, get pretty confident how much oil I need to add to bring it full again. But that confidence relies (in the beginning) on seeing the result on the dipstick. How will I see the bubbles, if I've added too much and there is a windage problem?
 
Ask Charlies what the oil pan capacity is. Install pan, put quoted oil amount in engine, and adjust dipstick tube length until the "Full" mark matches oil level in pan.
 
I believe on a factory OEM oil pan, the "full" mark on the indicator falls near the top lip of the oil pan. So in theory, if you measure how much water it takes to fill your oil pan to the top, you'll have a good idea of it's capacity.

That said, I've heard some say the purpose of the deeper oil pans is not to hold more oil, per se, but designed to move the full level further down and away from the crank shaft. Doing so allows you to run more oil without a windage problem. So it's hard to say if you still want to run it with the oil level at the top of the oil pan.

The maker of the oil pan will know what the capacity it's supposed to be.

Maybe I'm paranoid, but I don't like the idea of running an engine without a dipstick. I may, after changing the oil numerous times, get pretty confident how much oil I need to add to bring it full again. But that confidence relies (in the beginning) on seeing the result on the dipstick. How will I see the bubbles, if I've added too much and there is a windage problem?
In a every day street/strip type car a pan without a dipstick would not be preferred. For an all out race engine it will be fine as long as you don't have any leaks. I don't have one in my Hemi street/strip car. However, I am also running a vacuum pump.
 
Most likely 7 to 8 quarts. mine was a dragster style and it took 10. Figure how much and use water. Fill the pan to the desired level and mark it. Then buy a sight eye.
 
I would still use a windage tray too, measure to below where the tray sit
keep it like 1/4" away/below or more from the tray keep it out of oil
& room for it's drainage, especially under hard acceleration or hard braking 'too'
oil level needs to stay below the level of the windage tray 'too'
or it will get slopped around & aerated by the crankshaft
causing oil pressure issues at RPM, loss of power...

1qt of oil per 1,000rpm expected, is a decent #,
as long as it doesn't get into the crank or above the windage tray
your pretty good/safe

make sure the pick up is down & submerged to like 1/8"-1/4" off the bottom of the pan

there was a great episode on MotorTrends 'Engine Masters' about "Pantastic"
effects of oil levels & loss of power & pressure at RPM, can make or kill power
well worth watching
 
as long as it doesn't get into the crank or above the windage tray
your pretty good/safe

With the engine off, and all the oil drained back to the pan, I believe it's tolerable for the oil level to touch the windage tray or bottom of the crank, because once the engine is started, the operating oil level drops.

But without a way to see them bubbles when the windage picks up the oil, it's best to be safe than sorry.
 
I agree with using water to get an idea of capacity. I have a pan similat to yours and it is a 10 qt pan. I use a 3 qt accumulator also and 12 qts of oil.
And you're right as an additional qt will be in the filter and such as the engine is running.
I have a windage screen in the pan as well, and the level is below that.
Heck, I have friends that run 15 qts of oil in their race combos!
Good luck.
 
In a every day street/strip type car a pan without a dipstick would not be preferred. For an all out race engine it will be fine as long as you don't have any leaks. I don't have one in my Hemi street/strip car. However, I am also running a vacuum pump.
Are you saying you do not run a dipstick on your Hemi car because you have a vacuum pump?
Educate me as I am leaning towards installing vacuum pump this winter.

Race car only is what this is for.
 
You can add a dipstick to that pan. Weld in another bung and use a 3/8" compression street 90 x (male pipe thread)-screw into bung and mark a dipstick at your desired level.
Mike
 
I have that same pan on my hemi with a crank scraper and the screen windage tray , I run 8qt , never had a problem.
 
I run this same pan. The level ends up being pretty close to the top of the tie rod tube. The factory dipstick will not measure correctly. Even if you modify the pan the stick just bends as it hits the front of the pan. Mine has a boss welded in on the right side kickout of the pan. The pan was filled with 6,7,8,9, quarts of water and the stick calibrated for each level. It takes about 10 qts to get the pan at 8 qts. It's been run as low as 6 1/2 qts in the pan with no issue.
Doug

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The image of the windage screen in place looks like a strong indicator of where the "full" level should be.
That was my thoughts that it should be a little below the screen which puts it pretty much close to the top of the tie rod tube like Doug stated. This pan does not have the kick out for extra capacity like Doug’s has.
 
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