Cheap 440 question on power!

[Moparmatt72]

Some drag radials are in the works..eventually. main reason for wondering is a fellow mopar driver has been talking trash towards me! I think a charger vs. srt4 would be a fun match up at the strips and I think i can take him if I launch right. What is the estimated horsepower and torque before nitrous? I'm guessing little over 300 because stock it had 280? Either way itll be better than what i had before! oh and no cam yet because i am contemplating milling the heads to gain compression so i can run a bigger cam and more hp from it. milling the heads to be around 9.5 to 1 a bad idea?

It really depends on what the SRT4 has done to it. When I had mine it would stay with or walk a V8. When mine still had stock turbo but a lot of bolt ons I ran a 12.8 in the 1/4. Once I had a bigger turbo 60-1 and even more done to the car never did get a good pass due to cracking or breaking forged pistons. Don't under estimate those cars. But besides all that good luck at the track. I'm hopping to get my 72 car to the track hopefully by the end of the year have more fiberglass to buy lol

 

[Budnicks]

I never have liked using an electric WITH a mechanical pump. If the mechanical pump's diaphragm fails, you're gonna end up with an oil pan full of fuel. Not good. Even with small setups, I like running a complete stand alone fuel system with nitrous. There's just so much more control to be had.

Chargerkid ; Rusty I'm sure already know this, If you want to set up a N20 fuel system properly... 2 separate fuel pump systems & 2 separate regulators, so you can adjust each system individually, for what they need, you may want 7-psi at the carb & 5-psi at the N20 or whatever yourtype system/combo power level ends up needing at any given different PSI setting, that way you can change either carb. or N20 individually when needed, with out effecting the other system, infinite different setting that way, you don't end up chasing your tail with carb tunningor N2o tunning issues that way... I suggest that, You run an electric fuel pump separate & always use a adjustable fuel regulator {preferably on both sides of the system, carburetor & N20 fuel solenoid}, completely separately for the N20 system fuel/gasoline side of things, for the added gas for the fuel solenoid side of the N20 system, not thru the mechanical pump, that's the safest & best way, {although you can have the mechanical pump draw thru the electric pump, when not in use, I don't like that set up much myself, I prefer 2 separate systems, even if it's 2 separate electric systems or a mechanical for the engine & a electric for the nitrous system} & that way, then the mechanical pump can still be used for the everyday driver with out the worries of a mech. fuel pump diaphragm bursting or even the constant drone of an electric fuel pump, you can also rubber mount the electric fuel pump & cut down on 80%-90% of the noises.... I'm just saying...LOL...

 

[RamNBee]

I have a the Don Dulmage book and second to the Mopar Chassis and Engine books, it is the most real world, budget friendly info I have ever seen. All learned from his experience with getting a heavy Charger into the 11's.
Norman