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Chrysler Big Block Redline??

You are good to go for rpm, but I have to ask.... a stock 361, 2.76 gears, and a 2000 converter? That is not the right converter for this combo. I assume that you are planning further changes and upgrades?
Correct, I intended something like 3.23 or 2.94 gears with a different TC, the 2000 RPM converter was just a majority vote selected converter, that was supposedly used on a daily driver, but it's too loose of a converter I know that now.
 
The one thing I’ve notice is Mopar lower ends are honestly pretty robust.. you’ll be floating your valves before anything else or it just won’t pull it due to restrictions from intake/ exhaust flow.. Mopars are bitched about for being heavily built especially the lower end and that’s why everyone ditches them for lighter stuff. I personally don’t, ie six pack rods for example. But quality of a rebuild is key and alsways replace the rod bolts every time with arp. This is my opinion take how you wish.
Thank you for your input, honestly I'm in the same boat.

I prefer my parts to be heavy and is able to take the brunt of the stress.
No aluminum parts here!
(Maybe the water pump housing & the radiator)
 
Another joining the chorus here....
A stock 361 won't much care about anything above 4800RPM - and it'll let you know it doesn't
by the way it fights to go any higher, valves a-floatin' and all.
If you want more RPM, build an engine - hell, with those gears, build a dang driveline - suitable
for it. What you have now....isn't.
Agreed, ready to fire the parts cannon and probably a 742 case to fit the rear.
 
My first new car with a 383 4-speed 3.23 sure grip in stock trim would float the valves at 5200 rpms. The same car with headers, ported 915 HP heads, and a highly upgraded cam & lifters, and stock bottom end was consistently shifted at 7000 rpms. Just saying you have no problems with the stock bottom end of your engine, if it's in good condition.
Good deal, I tend to occasionally have the WOT straight road romp usually when no one is around.
 
The main limitation is hydraulic lifter pump-up,followed by the strength of the stock stamped rocker arms and stock 5/16 pushrods. Bottom end is mainly limited by oil pan capacity and whether a windage tray is present. Next is the strength of the stock rod bolts. I would avoid 6000 with stock parts mentioned.
In fact I did notice small lifter tick when I didn't even give it the WOT romp.
Motor saying: No, don't do that.
 
This was some footage I took a while back before I installed a Tach and before I rebuilt the transmission, but from one of the shots tells me I could have been hitting 5000 RPM.
And yes the sketchy return spring has been changed long since.

 
I think it might have a few hundred more rpm in her.
 
I think it might have a few hundred more rpm in her.
In stock form it will probably rev to 5100-5200, but why? It isn't making power beyond about 4800 rpms.
 
You don’t know that
 
You don’t know that
My first Mopar had a 361, ran fine. I was 16. 4 months later it had a 413 and I was off to the races adding hop up parts.
IMO a 361 is a poor place to start when looking for output.
 
This is a copy & paste post I made from FCBO.
Thank you for your time and input.
But here's the question:

As the title says I'd like to know what the redline is for Chrysler BB's in particular the 361, I suppose a 383 is close enough candidate as reference.
Recently I have completed my Pushbutton A727 rebuild & installed a Transgo TF-2 kit with a 2000 stall converter from Hughes performance converters.
Rear gear is 2.76

The motor is stock with potentially a 256/256 cam.
It does have a forged crank which I hope the crank being forged raises the max RPM threshold.

The WOT at 2nd gear will shift just past 4800?/5000? RPM, but I tend to let off at around 4800.
I'm afraid of potentially blowing the motor if it does hit 5000 RPM.

Is 5000 RPM a "safe" WOT shift? Are Chrysler big blocks even capable of hitting 5000 with no unseen unfortunate events to occur?

Thanks for your input.
5500rpm is a safe red line for older stock mopar. It will turn more if the valves don't float, but the real thing is, you say can I run it to 6,000rpm the answer is how long do you want to do it? Brief 6,000rpm would not be a problem either, holding it for a couple miles maybe not such a good idea. Stock Mopar's can pump the oil pan dry at extended high rpms. When I was young and dumb, had a 69 sport fury 383 with a police package on it, would run 130 on a certified speedometer. that was 5,500 rpm and never any issues, used to run it that fast for miles.
 
361 2bbl (I don't know if there ever was a stock 361 4bbl, I doubt it) was rated peak hp at 4400. I'm betting there is NO power to be had above 4500 (or, honestly, 4000-4200) with sixty year old valve springs.
When I was young and stupid, I revved a small block/four speed combo to 7500 at the drags, cause it would. In hindsight, I think my car would have been considerably faster, if I had shifted it at 6500. It took quite a while to get from 6000 to 7500 in third.
 
361 2bbl (I don't know if there ever was a stock 361 4bbl, I doubt it) was rated peak hp at 4400. I'm betting there is NO power to be had above 4500 (or, honestly, 4000-4200) with sixty year old valve springs.
When I was young and stupid, I revved a small block/four speed combo to 7500 at the drags, cause it would. In hindsight, I think my car would have been considerably faster, if I had shifted it at 6500. It took quite a while to get from 6000 to 7500 in third.
My stock 1962 Polara 500 Dart had a OEM 361 4bbl w/727, but not for long :)
 
My '59 Sport Suburban had a 361, Quad, Cast Iron TorqueFlite and a 3.31 SureGrip. 0-60 pretty fast for a 4,000 pound car, 15 to 115 really fast for a 4,000 pound car. First to Second shift was about 5200 'cause I was shifting by speedometer. Second to Third shift would've been lower because of the CI TF's automatic upshift into drive. Max on the other hand, the last time he was at the track, I was shifting 6,000 at WOT. Jerry Stein told me he shifted Teacher's Pet at 6800. He also told me he had 4.71 gears he had made up special.
 
Another joining the chorus here....
A stock 361 won't much care about anything above 4800RPM - and it'll let you know it doesn't
by the way it fights to go any higher, valves a-floatin' and all.
If you want more RPM, build an engine - hell, with those gears, build a dang driveline - suitable
for it. What you have now....isn't.
Someone put a 361 in my Ol' Coronet before i bought it. Damn, It was loose and I could float the valves with ease. Those old bias ply L60's didn't have much bite and the rpm would wing up pretty quick. . Let's see, 361 cubes with a shorter stroke than a 350 Chevy! A long rod, some compression, and some good heads and it could have been a screamer!

My 69 coronet 1a (1).jpg
 
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Someone put a 361 in my Ol' Coronet before i bought it. Damn, It was loose and I could float the valves with ease. Those old bias ply L60's didn't have much bite. Let's see, 361 cubes with a shorter stroke than a 350 Chevy! A long rod, some compression, and some good heads and it could have been a screamer!

View attachment 1694647
Isin't the super red ram from 1960? 1958? A hopped up 361?

That's the only thing that comes to mind as you said screamer.
 
My '59 Sport Suburban had a 361, Quad, Cast Iron TorqueFlite and a 3.31 SureGrip. 0-60 pretty fast for a 4,000 pound car, 15 to 115 really fast for a 4,000 pound car. First to Second shift was about 5200 'cause I was shifting by speedometer. Second to Third shift would've been lower because of the CI TF's automatic upshift into drive. Max on the other hand, the last time he was at the track, I was shifting 6,000 at WOT. Jerry Stein told me he shifted Teacher's Pet at 6800. He also told me he had 4.71 gears he had made up special.
6.8K!! Gnarly dude and those gear ratio's, all smiles per gallons.
 
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