Clutch adjustment advice (for a hack)
- Thread starter Bleep Bleep
- Start date
Depress the pedal to the floor which stretches the spring and slide large washers between the coils. Let the pedal back up and the spring will come right off the pivots.
Those super stiff pressure plates are really hard on the clutch linkage, the more slop in the linkage the harder it is to adjust pedal height.
Last edited:
Thanks. What is the effect on normal clutch pedal effort and motion (variation in effort with travel, hitch/over-center points, etc)?
It has been years since I drove a diaphragm clutch but they have a lighter pedal feel and resistance. Easier to depress and the return spring is not needed by design.
Runcharger
Well-Known Member
As stated above. The first thing to do is make sure pivot balls are not worn out, pivot ball bushings are new and linkage holes are not wallowed out. These cars are getting really old and there's lots of chances for things not being tight. Personally I don't expect them to shift and clutch like a little toy Honda but then these are the cars I grew up with. I have never owned a diaphraghm clutch and my wife drove the borg and beck in her 68 340-S just fine, so it can be done.
- Local time
- 6:50 PM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 22,146
- Reaction score
- 79,249
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
Sorry to ask. Checked with service manual which helped where this part is of the overall assembly. But just need to confirm where I look. Embarrassed but rather ask. Is what @toolmanmike is referencing in post #2 about an access cover or is the linkage exposed?
Look underneath and you will see a sheet metal inspection cover.
Some Car Guy
Well-Known Member
I bought a 68 charger 4 speed years ago. It had a diaphragm clutch and pedal would stick to the floor, needing an assist with the foot to come up. Found the over center spring, removed it and was 100x better. I no longer want a b&b pressure plate.
69 rr was same way, or maybe I changed that clutch myself from b and b and the spring had to go. Can’t remember. I do know both cars I couldn’t get anything between those coils. Nothing. It’s like the coils didn’t change as the pedal was moved. More like it pivoted on the mount points was all.
So put on the best protection I could and dremeled my way through them. Sounded like a gun blast. I and the cars were unscathed. I recall lining up the blade and getting my head and neck above the area and kinda had my body to the outside of the car. Definitely the most scary work I’ve done on a car.
69 rr was same way, or maybe I changed that clutch myself from b and b and the spring had to go. Can’t remember. I do know both cars I couldn’t get anything between those coils. Nothing. It’s like the coils didn’t change as the pedal was moved. More like it pivoted on the mount points was all.
So put on the best protection I could and dremeled my way through them. Sounded like a gun blast. I and the cars were unscathed. I recall lining up the blade and getting my head and neck above the area and kinda had my body to the outside of the car. Definitely the most scary work I’ve done on a car.
- Local time
- 5:50 PM
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2019
- Messages
- 4,342
- Reaction score
- 3,922
- Location
- Saskatoon Saskatchewan Canada
Did you have permission to take that picture? Or is she just seriously paying attention to the road?
Is this the right? I don’t see where mine has really any space between the washer and the nut? Or do I have to pull back on the fork first to check gap? The spring on mine looks like a heavier gauge? (if that actually means anything)
What do you think?
- Local time
- 6:50 PM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 22,146
- Reaction score
- 79,249
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
Spring there should be nothing stronger than what is need to hold the throw out bearing off the pressure plate and keep the fork from rattling. That spring looks mean.. lol. Hold the adjuster rod, pull back on the fork. You should get a gap of about 3/16 or so...
Thanks I’ll check that out again. Btw, is the general amount of existing adjustment left on the rod relate to the amount of clutch wear by chance?
From the pics we posted the adjusting nuts appear generally around the same end of adjusting rod?
If it does relate to clutch wear does that help determine if the clutch engagement on mine (at top of the pedal stroke) may be indicative the existing clutch is not at end of life? clutch wear? Or a matter of adjusting free play first then checking engagement point?
From the pics we posted the adjusting nuts appear generally around the same end of adjusting rod?
If it does relate to clutch wear does that help determine if the clutch engagement on mine (at top of the pedal stroke) may be indicative the existing clutch is not at end of life? clutch wear? Or a matter of adjusting free play first then checking engagement point?
Some Car Guy
Well-Known Member
I’m not sure you can speculate based on that. I’d order the oem spring.no wonder it’s so stiff. At least compared to later 60s car spring anyway. I’d not think that one should be much if any different.
- Local time
- 6:50 PM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 22,146
- Reaction score
- 79,249
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
No you can't compare adjuster rod settings. Different pressure plates, different set ups, and the picture I showed you can see in that shot that it's not even tightened up yet.
As for "top of pedal", it ain't a truck and dis-engage shouldn't be down at the floor. You should be able to side step a clutch pedal and dis-engage and re-engage a clutch when into it. That's why you don't drive with your foot resting on the pedal, killing the throw out bearing. Even my Wife has that down pat... she's been driving a 4 gear since she was a teenager.
As for "top of pedal", it ain't a truck and dis-engage shouldn't be down at the floor. You should be able to side step a clutch pedal and dis-engage and re-engage a clutch when into it. That's why you don't drive with your foot resting on the pedal, killing the throw out bearing. Even my Wife has that down pat... she's been driving a 4 gear since she was a teenager.
Yeah ok. Granted only the second classic era clutch so not much feel comparison. Never rested a foot on the pedal but guess I’ve just preferred the heel on the floor dis-engage position.
I’ll get used to it pretty quickly. I don’t have any history on the car at all and mainly was concerned if this high pedal kinda automatically translates to plates being worn out and the associated expenses of a replacement.
Appreciate your info here.
I’ll get used to it pretty quickly. I don’t have any history on the car at all and mainly was concerned if this high pedal kinda automatically translates to plates being worn out and the associated expenses of a replacement.
Appreciate your info here.
Oh btw, “Sidestep”? What do you mean.
