Paul73
Well-Known Member
Yeah it’s an 11” bell. I think it’s the throw out rod. I think the pressure plate I got might be throwing everything off and I need to get a longer rod to accommodate it.
Clutch pedal issue
- Thread starter Paul73
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Shenango
Active Member
Check the angle of your clutch fork pivot. Mine was pretty extreme when I finally found it but when it started to crack my clutch pedal would stick half way.
Double check the position of the tab on the Z-bar...
Mopar had different Z-bars, all the same width but the tab that pushes back the rod may be positioned differently.
The rod should be parallel to the bell housing. I had a similar issue on my 70RR talked to our local Mopar guru and he showed me (3) Z-bars all the same width but the tab was positioned differently. If the rod doesn't push straight back, the pedal will not be smooth and can put extreme pressure on bell-housing side Z-bar ball and snap it off due to heavy, forced action..
Just my $0.02...
Mopar had different Z-bars, all the same width but the tab that pushes back the rod may be positioned differently.
The rod should be parallel to the bell housing. I had a similar issue on my 70RR talked to our local Mopar guru and he showed me (3) Z-bars all the same width but the tab was positioned differently. If the rod doesn't push straight back, the pedal will not be smooth and can put extreme pressure on bell-housing side Z-bar ball and snap it off due to heavy, forced action..
Just my $0.02...
My bee did the exact same thing with the exact pressure plate just out of the blue. I found that the bell crank needed servicing with new bushings and ball studs worked like a charm after.
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Doesn't sound like that's the case with the OP, who stated to Dad already he'd replaced the Delrons.
Mine were all replaced, including the actual bell crank itself - and only started doing the "half back"
when the RAM was installed.
Doesn't matter with me anyways, I want the thing out of there. I do not like the feel of it at all.
(Honestly, I probably just miss the feel of the original asbestos type discs).
Daves69
Well-Known Member
For the B&B style, the cover springs need to get the pedal to just past "center up" for the OC spring to lift it to the stop.
FWIW, the MP book has a setup fixture that checks installed finger height as a way to find out. They don't say how it's used .......
I use a ground disc in between the cover and the flywheel bolted down. Measure down from the fingers to the disc with a dept mic for the 1.700".
A few things I've noted over the years if it can help....
A disc that is too thick can drive the fingers down closer to the hub springs. shimming out the clutch cover may resolve that issue.
A turned flywheel, a bell crank sliding side to side, a short, worn, bent, or even wrong pivot, weak cover springs or misadjusted fingers, worn fork contact points, worn out pedal bushings, bad engine or trans mounts, and even a worn out thrust bearing can all be contributors to a low pedal issue.
dadsbee already covered the A-body adjust rod possibility.
Shims may still be available to push the flywheel rearward.
Consider the fork pivot height. A spacer under it with correct length bolts may be best as it moves both, the fork tips and the adjust rod contact point forward.
In any case, be careful on the adjustment. 0.060" is what MP calls for. Too much and you risk running the finger backsides into the hub springs.
Paul73
Well-Known Member
Okay, thanks for the information, I already got a new rod ordered so I’ll try that first since that will be the easiest solution for now and if that doesn’t work, I’ll try something else.
Clutch disengagement should start when the pedal is about 1" down from the full up position. If the pedal can be pushed or "drops half way down", this has nothing to do with the pedal or the over center spring. The problem is further down the line.
I have no idea how you got a 1/8 gap at the throwout bearing and yet the pedal moves that far. Quite simply: you've done something wrong.
With the pedal all the way up and all linkage pressed to take out any slack you should adjust the throwout gap. At this point the pedal should only have about 1" of play.
Things worth checking:
plastic z-bar bushings are in good shape
pivot balls are round - not worn flat
fork pivot is firmly in place the correct way
fork pivot clip is not broken
thrust bearing is attached to the fork
threads on the rod or nut are not stripped
correct length throwout bearing
I have no idea how you got a 1/8 gap at the throwout bearing and yet the pedal moves that far. Quite simply: you've done something wrong.
With the pedal all the way up and all linkage pressed to take out any slack you should adjust the throwout gap. At this point the pedal should only have about 1" of play.
Things worth checking:
plastic z-bar bushings are in good shape
pivot balls are round - not worn flat
fork pivot is firmly in place the correct way
fork pivot clip is not broken
thrust bearing is attached to the fork
threads on the rod or nut are not stripped
correct length throwout bearing
My pedal doesn't come up all the way either, but probably more than yours. Get a longer adj rod. Maybe 1/8" in your case is excessive, all that clutch has to do is release, the small spring at the bell keeps the bearing clear of the fingers. The reason the overcenter spring is there is to help you push the clutch in, not to hold the pedal up. The only gap that I would be concerned about is bearing to fingers.
There could possibly be something bent in your system, who knows what has happened before you. Everyone can agree or disagree about what the overcenter spring is for or does.
There could possibly be something bent in your system, who knows what has happened before you. Everyone can agree or disagree about what the overcenter spring is for or does.
If the clutch pedal doesn't return back fully then U have something wrong such as:
Not adjusted properly.
Wrong components, Z-bar, adjustment rod, return spring..
Just my $0.02..
Not adjusted properly.
Wrong components, Z-bar, adjustment rod, return spring..
Just my $0.02..
Superpro1911
New Member
I had a problem on my GTX. Adjustment was all the way out to the end of the adjuster. Check to make sure the spring clip that goes over the z-bar and into a hole that locates on the nylon bushing on the frame side of the z-bar. Mine wasn’t going into the nylon bushing and caused the pedal to not return and adjustment was at the end like yours. Removed bracket on frame side re-installed and put locator spring in correctly and was middle of adjuster and good pedal return…
mrhemi
Well-Known Member
Definitely have linkage geometry issues there. Once you get those solved, another thing to look at regarding having to pull the pedal back up with your toe, is the pin that anchors one end of the over center spring in the bracketry under the dash. I have seen quite a few of these wear quite a bit through use. When they wear, it can change the geometry enough so the pedal won't return all the way on it's own. The oin should be replaced, but sometimes you can get by with a quick fix by rotating the pin so the spring is contacting a non-worn part of the pin.
NOTE, this is not the solution for your original problem. Just something to follow up with.
NOTE, this is not the solution for your original problem. Just something to follow up with.
Paul73
Well-Known Member
So just following up on this thread, I got the new A body adjuster rod in the mail today and I got it on the car and that solved the issue. The pedal comes all the way up on its own and I have the gap at the throw out bearing to clutch fingers set perfectly. I haven’t took it out for a test yet because I’ve got some electrical problems that I’m working on and currently cannot start the car.
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