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CO is killing me.

My comments are aimed toward the catalytic converters suggestion.
I know the guy that posted it, I was joking with him about it. Dwayne is a good guy but he sometimes over thinks things.
A little **** talk is fine, I hope y'all are friends. I did appreciate his help.
 
Hey… I worked construction, I played team sports..Talking trash is what we did.
 
I read through all the post. Get your self a timing light. Also adjust your carb. It's never going to be like a 2024 car no matter what you do. If you want zero emissons get an electric car and wait in line to charge it.
 
Time and tune for sure. My own motor runs well and is tuned correctly, but it still has noticeable exhaust smell. I recently found out you can buy race style catalytic converters and install and that's supposed to cure the smell. 2 of my classic mopar buddies have some installed with good results, so I have a pair on order from Summit for my car.
Be careful putting cats on carbureted engines - if you run into a rich condition and fuel vapors or raw fuel collect in the HOT cats - it's ripe for a fire.
 
I read through all the post. Get your self a timing light. Also adjust your carb. It's never going to be like a 2024 car no matter what you do. If you want zero emissons get an electric car and wait in line to charge it.
I'm not sure you did read it all. But hey, thanks for... thanks!
 
Be careful putting cats on carbureted engines - if you run into a rich condition and fuel vapors or raw fuel collect in the HOT cats - it's ripe for a fire.
Plus if you run oil with any Zinc it will destroy the Catalytic converter. Fast!! Also you can get a basic timing light with Tach on Amazon for around $50. It wont be the super whamadine model but a basic usable tool.
 
I have '67 Coronet someone put a 383 in years ago. It has an Edelbrock 1411/750 CFM. I don't know what it was tuned for but it ran very rich when I got it. I changed air filter, fuel filter and reset all the mixture screws and tuned it until it ran fine and just at the edge of lean, where it didn't ping or anything. I do not have a timing gun that works anymore but I have ordered a vac gauge and I just got a new fuel pressure gauge I'll add in-line this weekend. My car doesn't run as rich as before, but the CO emissions are bananas. At idle, if I walk around the car with a bit of a breeze, the CO reads 100-500+ PPM. Windows rolled up it's not bad but cruising and stop and go traffic I get sick. I've stopped driving it until i figure this out. It's not an exhaust leak (i couldn't find one and a mechanic who works on classics only couldn't find one), it's the exhaust itself.

Maybe I'm just old and suddenly can't tolerate exhaust. But my wife mentioned it after I took her for a ride and even my niece noticed. Classic CO signs, throat scratchy, headache, lungs hurt. Once I had that happened I stopped driving it. But even working on it I can tell still. And I know modern cars are better, but same day and location I could barely get 20-100 PPM out of a Challenger at the pipes with a 345. Sure, it's a modern car, but it read 0 walking around it. I'm not a mechanic by any means, I'm an IT guy, but I've never had this issue with classic cars before. I was hoping folks had ideas. Most of the posts focus on bad trunk seals and leaks, this a bit beyond that. I can't even get near the thing when it's running. It's a pretty looking war crime at this point.

1. Would a fuel pump at too high a pressure cause this?
2. I can't lean it much more without issues, would a smaller carb help?
3. PCV valve? (Is that valve twice?)
4. Maybe I can't drive a classic anymore?

I appreciate any advice. I'll worry about leaks and slipping a piece of paper in the trunk after I've toned down the exhaust at the pipe. Thanks for reading, all. I forgot to add, I haven't checked plugs yet. So that's on the list.
You mentioned years ago on the 750 Eddy. That particular part no carb is not responsive to tuning. Don’t waste your time on it. Get an Edelbrock 625 AVS -2 . I had that carb on a stock 440 and experienced the same. If you can find articles on your 1411 carb might confirm my opinion.
I have run the Eddy AVS and even a Street Demon 625-750 with good results. Good ign system , maybe MSD box will clear up that CO so you can breathe. First change the carb to 600 cfm Holley vac secondary or 625 AVS-2 , you will be able to fine tune either one of them.
 
Consider:
Does you exhaust come out the back under the bumper ?

Exhaust is clear but leaves some black. The car is rich still, lean had a different stink. It's also hard to tell what is old and what isn't after I leaned it.

I'm not sure you did read it all.

For being as prickly as you present yourself to be, you could do with reading some yourself.

To be clear as a bell for 'ya...you notice your response to the question asked has nothing to do with answering the question?

There is a possibility that your statement of the exhaust being 'clear' means the pipes come out from under the car, past the bumper so said exhaust is 'clear' from any flow restriction. That interpretation involves a bit of mental gymnastics.

...and the third quote box indeed was not a reply to his question, but a comment from yourself that applies.


If you are concerned about fuel pressure, how 'bout using a gauge to find out what it is? That beats plumbing in a regulator...then you STILL won't know what the fuel pressure is.

A timing light will (can) tell you a lot more than an initial timing number. Where the vacuum can starts the ignition curve, does that affect the idle circuit, what the total centrifugal timing is at what RPM and whether the weights are stuck/sticking...all of those things can effect the smell of the exhaust.

You mentioned having 'tuned' the carb...but no mention of float levels, needles/springs/jet choices. Does 'tune' in this instance mean you fussed with the idle circuit screws? That's not much in the way of 'tuning'.

Transfer slot orientation?

With the car idling and looking into the carb throat, do you see any fuel coming from the wrong places? That can be a dangerous point of view.

What is your idle vacuum? RPM?

Cam? A lopey cam running 6" of vacuum at idle and 10º of initial timing is going to stink.

Exhaust leaks? Headers on the car with what for collector gaskets? Use Remflex exhaust gaskets . As in, period.

New gas, old gas, you don't know gas?

Good luck.
 
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You mentioned years ago on the 750 Eddy. That particular part no carb is not responsive to tuning. Don’t waste your time on it. Get an Edelbrock 625 AVS -2 . I had that carb on a stock 440 and experienced the same. If you can find articles on your 1411 carb might confirm my opinion.
I have run the Eddy AVS and even a Street Demon 625-750 with good results. Good ign system , maybe MSD box will clear up that CO so you can breathe. First change the carb to 600 cfm Holley vac secondary or 625 AVS-2 , you will be able to fine tune either one of them.
Post 38 #

650 AVS2 or either one of the Eddy 600 s

Peace
 
Well, I didn't read everything.....but did read where the fumes are coming into the car some it seems? My questions are....are ALL of the body/floor plugs installed? Even one that's missing under the carpet can let some come in but the ones in the trunk will let in more. The tail end of the car always has a low pressure area while moving. Is the trunk seal in good shape too? If it's not in good condition, it will for sure pull in exhaust even if your exhaust pipe is out past the bumper.

I found out the hard way about that many years ago with my 66 Belvedere. Not saying that's all of your problem but if the car isn't sealed well, you will get fumes inside even without any leaks in the system and especially so when you have your window down. Having an open floor vent with the windows up will usually help the flow of air from front to back and will help a car evacuate fumes that may be inside the interior. Shortly after getting my 66 I started removing the dozen or so coats of crappy paints jobs and at one point I removed the reverse lights from the trunk lid and that's when I noticed fumes coming in and bad. The rear seat was also out so it was pretty easy for the fumes to travel all over the interior.
 
Don't agree with that all. My masculinity is not linked to breathing in noxious chemicals in any way.
I wear disposable gloves these days when changing the oil or working on the carb and I wear a proper mask when sanding plasterboard (dry wall in USA) or spray painting.
Wanting to stay healthy doesn't make you a pussy.
Guess we won't be seein you in the pits at a top fuel event. Meow.
 
I'm a bit curious as to why you don't have a timing light but you do have an instrument to measure exhaust gases.
A timing light is a pretty basic tool that car guys need to have. I don't know anyone that has any hand held tool to measure emissions. I have an air/fuel meter in the car though.
Old cars, heck...any vehicle with no catalytic converters will have a different smell compared to newer cars.
That's just Colorado, (CA also). I had to leave back in the mid -90's due to their emissions "Shtuf", in order to Tag/Licence a vehicle it HAS to pass emissions. Kinda like here in Missouri a Safety Inspect. Of course last thing I want is some driver out in front at my 11:00 at 80 mph losing a RH ball joint! Cotastrophe city. Many hate it (as I do).
Crazy thing about emission states, It can FAIL safety and PASS emissions, and you be "Good to Go" lol
 
Come on, man...To be a guy and admit that the smell of fuel and combustion bothers you, you should expect to get some pushback.
It would be like a cattle rancher that is a vegan.

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Yeah but I drink beer and hard liquor and you drink Mountain Dew...a soft drink.
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Another off the rails thread. FFS... Winternet is long over guys and too early to start next year's.
 
Two things I’d do-

Check the plug wires. If you aren’t getting good fire, you’ll have a smell.

Trash that eddy. Worst. Carb. Ever. I’ve dealt with several and they are the only carb I can’t tame.
 
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