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Considering buying this 1970 Super Bee. Talk me out of it.

What's so bad about it? Looked like a nice car to me. But it turns out I don't know jack about **** once I get all you guys weighing in.

that's my point....... it looks pretty nice in that video, but it only covered about 1% of everything you need to see, we can assume nothing........ the video isn't much better than the first set of pictures

show us in detail.......inside the trunk, up under the dutchman, the trunk drop offs from underneath, the rocker where it meets the quarter, the bottom inside of the doors, lower inside of the fenders, ect.......

these may have been repaired, maybe not...... maybe done well, maybe not...... you need to be careful about getting buried in a car that turns out to be an auto body abortion

every car I've ever seen that was "built" or "cleaned up" to sell has turned out to be a complete pile........... not saying that is the case here, but we still have no idea

mechanicals are pretty much "fixed price" issues........ body issues, not so much

all that being said, even a video is limiting....... you can't "touch and feel" things....... or hear things clearly.....

I bought a car once sight unseen, with only pics...... but the car was obvious original paint, and every spot weld was where it needed to be; and those were the only 2 things I cared about
 
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What's so bad about it? Looked like a nice car to me. But it turns out I don't know jack about **** once I get all you guys weighing in.
The devil is in the details.

You have to lay eyes and hands on it before making a decision one way or the other. This could require two trips to see the car.
 
For real. There's an odd cult of guys who think pink is big $ due to rarity regardless of condition. I was hanging out with a guy at MOPARS in the Park this summer whose has a whole collection of factory pink cars. And that nice one did go for insane $ at auction last month. But it was perfect. They all seem to ignore the fact that something like this would cost as much or more to restore than it will sell for, and all you get out of it is the hassle. Give me the 50K driver over the completely roached 1 of 1 project car any day.
You can buy Scott Lindsay's 70 Pink V code GTX for a mere 300k.
 
...The other option of flying out and storing it at my brother's until my garage is ready hit a snag when I realized you can't fly with that much cash...
You shouldn't drive with that much cash either, unless you want to make it a donation to whatever police department happens to pull you over that day on some obscure pretext.
 
Still waiting for someone to post a solid, easily restorable, reasonably priced 70 Bee for sale near me.
 
Still waiting for someone to post a solid, easily restorable, reasonably priced 70 Bee for sale near me.
For the last couple years I have been looking very diligently and came to the conclusion there is no point in that course, financially speaking. I've seen plenty of pretty nice drivers go for 40-45K, which could use some work but not to the point I'd call it a restoration. That blue one in NY a few months back sold for 42K and was damn near perfect. Conversely the cars that need a restoration are north of 15K and there's no way you could get them into the condition of the drivers for the difference. So if I can't find the V Code I actually want I'm just going with a driver that needs some TLC, like the focus of this thread. There is a stunning reddish R/T clone for 33K on FB now that looks pristine in one of the groups, posted today, but I can't find the damn link again.
 
My dad was a professional photographer. He taught me early on that the camera is the world's best liar. So the vast majority of photos in for sale ads have never had an effect on me. As eldubb has pointed out, the only ones that have any merit are the close up shots of the at risk areas. I've been fortunate to have only made one trip for an inspection without closing a deal, and that car wasn't horrible, just priced too high for what it turned out to be. It eventually sold for less than I told the seller I felt I was willing to pay. The key to my track record has been determining past owner history before traveling. I posted on a similar thread about the GTX I owned for many years, that photographed poorly, with extremely shabby paint, but turned out to be the best deal I ever cut in my life, twice (I owned it from '83 to '91, and again from 2013 to 2021.)

The car had a two owner history, with highly documented maintenance. Inspection showed nearly perfect original sheet metal, only problem was some lower quarter panel rust on the driver's side, typical even in excellent B bodies. Body work and paint came to $2100 in 1985, slightly more than the car's purchase price. Picture shows it 36 years later, same paint, body still perfect, because there were no hidden problems. Knowing the owner history was critical to all my successful purchases, determined prior to my decision to inspect.

I've tended to own my cars for about seven years, after which I've traded up to a better one. That's consistently how long it's taken me to find what I consider a good deal, made more difficult by the fact I specialized in '68, and '69 GTXs.
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For the last couple years I have been looking very diligently and came to the conclusion there is no point in that course, financially speaking. I've seen plenty of pretty nice drivers go for 40-45K, which could use some work but not to the point I'd call it a restoration. That blue one in NY a few months back sold for 42K and was damn near perfect. Conversely the cars that need a restoration are north of 15K and there's no way you could get them into the condition of the drivers for the difference. So if I can't find the V Code I actually want I'm just going with a driver that needs some TLC, like the focus of this thread. There is a stunning reddish R/T clone for 33K on FB now that looks pristine in one of the groups, posted today, but I can't find the damn link again.
How about an orange clone?

1970 Dodge coronet super bee clone

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Great feedback from everyone. I have purchased many cars and old trucks in my years and even when you look at a vehicle in person let your gut instinct help you to go in one direction or another. Mechanicals can always be easily fixed but I always wanted a car with good bones especially with regards to the trunk floor. The underside of these cars tell you much about the condition of the car. If the car has a solid underneath and is clean, good trunk floor, good history so you can tell some stories and at a fair price go for it. One thing I have found out is that after you get any car home and start running it and looking at it in greater detail to learn what you really purchased there will always be things that pop up and need addressed. As far as leaks, they all leak, that's to be expected with old cars even the ones that are restored because they are used so infrequently especially in the Northeast and gaskets dry out.

Good luck.
 
I always post these threads now so you guys can trash a car and save me from making stupid decisions. Fire away.

Owner has the original numbers matching motor. I asked what he would do to the car with 10K to throw at it as he seems to have been doing upgrades when necessary. He said he'd rebuild the original motor and otherwise the car is solid except for it has a slight run on after turning off the key (timing probably) and a small oil leak.

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Hey....
the 70 Coronet's front bumpers make them look like they are sucking lemons.....Hope that helps :) Good luck however it turns out.
 
I disagree.

The car actually looks like the Bee emblem.

Mine was yellow and black, to boot.
 
Tell me that car doesn't look like that emblem.
 
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