Converter stall, launch rpm and shift points... ??

[womanator]

If I was building a trans for the a street strip car I wouldn't use anything but a trans brake valve body.
A couple of things to consider,

1-you would be more consitant with a trans brake because you would leave at the same rpm.
2-you can set the stall chip at any rpm up to the limit of the converter for your launch
3-easier to adjust you reaction time with a rotory rpm switch.

Cons
It costs a little more for the converter and the valve body.

But if you want to win races these pieces will make you more consistant.

 

[67 coronet]

If I was building a trans for the a street strip car I wouldn't use anything but a trans brake valve body.
A couple of things to consider,

1-you would be more consitant with a trans brake because you would leave at the same rpm.
2-you can set the stall chip at any rpm up to the limit of the converter for your launch
3-easier to adjust you reaction time with a rotory rpm switch.

Cons
It costs a little more for the converter and the valve body.

But if you want to win races these pieces will make you more consistant.

if you where building a race car that could be driven on the street,then yes a brake is in order.most street cars are taken to the track only sparsley and are ment to have fun with.i would spend that money in other areas to increase the fun factor,but that is just my opinion.

 

[383man]

if you where building a race car that could be driven on the street,then yes a brake is in order.most street cars are taken to the track only sparsley and are ment to have fun with.i would spend that money in other areas to increase the fun factor,but that is just my opinion.

I have to agree with you also as I did not want to even consider using a trans brake in my 63 since it is a 99% street car that I race a few times a year mainly for fun at Test & Tunes to see how its running and some fun grudge racing with my buddies. My 63 will launch and hook ok for what is is which is a street car with stock suspension other then 3400 lb rated SS springs and Comp 90/10 shocks up front. All else is stock in the suspension and chassis. A trans brake is the way to go if you are a serious racer and want every hundreth you can get out of your car. Dont get me wrong as I am a gear head and like making my car faster but I dont go nuts about it as I know I have to live within my budget anyway. Ron

 

[womanator]

Most my posts are just what have worked for me.
Alot of people want to try different combo's and don't have the money to spend on it.
Just because I post,doesn't mean you have to do it.
If it's all about the fun factor on the street.
A 4-speed on the street is a cool factor.
It's cheaper to put a trans brake in your car then to convert it to a manual trans.
It's no different letting a trans brake go off the button that let the clutch out on the street.

 

[383man]

Most my posts are just what have worked for me.
Alot of people want to try different combo's and don't have the money to spend on it.
Just because I post,doesn't mean you have to do it.
If it's all about the fun factor on the street.
A 4-speed on the street is a cool factor.
It's cheaper to put a trans brake in your car then to convert it to a manual trans.
It's no different letting a trans brake go off the button that let the clutch out on the street.

I enjoy reading your post and do not mean to offend you in any way just stating what I enjoy also. Thats what its all about anyway as of course we wont all agree on everything. Ron

 

[HT413]

Most my posts are just what have worked for me.
Alot of people want to try different combo's and don't have the money to spend on it.
Just because I post,doesn't mean you have to do it.
If it's all about the fun factor on the street.
A 4-speed on the street is a cool factor.
It's cheaper to put a trans brake in your car then to convert it to a manual trans.
It's no different letting a trans brake go off the button that let the clutch out on the street.

Yeah, no worries. I appreciate your taking the time to give some advice. For now I'm thinking I'll try launching using the linelock and see what happens. My converter is pretty loose, I can get it up to near 3000 rpm before it starts pushing through the front brakes .

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

i run a 9" J in my car dart right now. it actually ET's better leaving off idle or just a little bit above then it does if you try to rev it up. doesn't make alot of heat and cook everything that way either. like what was mentioned earlier, i see alot of cars that are so far out of tune they gotta get the rpm's up other wise they fall on there face when you wot it.

http://youtu.be/tBwyPmOzqBQ

 

[womanator]

i run a 9" J in my car dart right now. it actually ET's better leaving off idle or just a little bit above then it does if you try to rev it up. doesn't make alot of heat and cook everything that way either. like what was mentioned earlier, i see alot of cars that are so far out of tune they gotta get the rpm's up other wise they fall on there face when you wot it.

http://youtu.be/tBwyPmOzqBQ

Don't take this the wrong way.
But what you actually are saying is that your car can't put the power that you engine makes to the ground.
When you launch launch at a lower rpm you aren't at peak torque.
What you said about launching at a lower RPM giving you a better et is almost right.
What is really happening is that you are getting a better launch and getting a better 60 ft time.
And a .10th on the 60 ft is about .20 at the big end,so a better ET.

Examples.
My race car.
68 Dart post.
9.00 car
Leaving off the brake at 5500 rpm.
1.19 60 ft time
Ladder bar car,huge tire's.
950 hp
Notice how hard the tire's are working.

Now my 67 Dart.
Probably like you this is my pump gas street driven car.
10.70 car.
625 hp.
Hoosier QT Pro's 13 inch wide.
Foot braking like you At 2000-2100.
Any harder than this I would blow the tire's off.
We use a rev limiter for the launch to leave the same everytime.
Still the 60ft is in the 1.50's.
I can't hit the tire's as hard.
This is with 02-03 Super stock leaf springs
To me the suspension and tire is the limiting factor in how hard I can launch my car's.

Just pointing how I launch 2 different cars.

 

[HT413]

Ok, i have a really dumb question about prestage and stage lights. When staging do I have to go deep enough to turn the prestage light OFF?

 

[SUPERSTOCKRACER]

Wow, that was great, Budnicks, that was great. So I've been reading a lot of guys saying they have a high stall converter but actually launch way lower than the stall. What's the deal with that? Thanks again.

i have a 6400 stall in my 2 nss cars. i shift at 7000 and launch at 2500 rpms.
i tried a loose 8" converter and it stalled at 7000 rpms. if i shifted at 7000 the converter would not drop down at my shift light stayed on and no drop in rpm's.
needless to say trans got real hot and i was going through the converter.
so i upped the shift point to 7400 rpms and i got my drop in rpm but no change in ET or mph.
I was just putting more wear and tear on trans and motor for no reason.
hope this helps.

- - - Updated - - -

Ok, i have a really dumb question about prestage and stage lights. When staging do I have to go deep enough to turn the prestage light OFF?

what you do is start bumping in to turn on top prestage light. wait till the other guy prestages or if the other guy prestaged 1st go in at your own pace.
Then if you want to stage 1st just start bumping in till your bottom bulb goes on. your staged. no nned to deep stage and turn out top bulb.
I usually let the faster car stage last.

 

[1969 charger rt]

OK here is a pic of our street car. I run a trans brake in it and love it on the street. I come out at 4 and shift at 7 and man what a ride lol l

 

[womanator]

1969 Charger RT,
Beautiful Car.

 

[HT413]

i have a 6400 stall in my 2 nss cars. i shift at 7000 and launch at 2500 rpms.
i tried a loose 8" converter and it stalled at 7000 rpms. if i shifted at 7000 the converter would not drop down at my shift light stayed on and no drop in rpm's.
needless to say trans got real hot and i was going through the converter.
so i upped the shift point to 7400 rpms and i got my drop in rpm but no change in ET or mph.
I was just putting more wear and tear on trans and motor for no reason.

Hey SSR, so when you shift at 7400, you are dropping in below the stall as you hit the next gear. Could you explain the thinking here? I think i'll be doing something similar (though at 5000 rpm lol) and was afraid that dropping down like that will slow the car down.

This is something I'm interested in because my motor is a hydraulic flat tappet (dont know what is in the motor so i dont wanna go above 5000 rpms) . Yet the converter stalls at 4000 with the brakes (havent checked the flash) so I'll be dropping down below the stall in the next gear as well. now that I see some people are doing it, i'm thinking the guy who built the car (2 owners ago) maybe he knew what he was doing when he chose the converter after all.

Thanks.


1969, bro, that car is so sick. Even my wife went nuts when I showed her.