Cooling our early B's

[Shorthorse]

On the subject of T-stat's from what I've heard (some have posted) they have no influence on a car running hot unless it doesn't open or open fully. The gen idea is to get a faster warm up for those in the cold climates to get defrost/heat sooner, reach warm idle if you have such set up. (Mine's gone with headers) Once motor temp is up, it's up, T-stat means nada intense cold aside. Also some have opined to take it out when cold weather isn't a factor (stored winters). Mechanic buddy advised this isn't a good idea as the increase in flow through the rad is faster, gather more so with hi-flow pumps, where cooling is actually reduced as the rad can't do its job...

I agree with you about the thermostats job. I also agree with your buddy's assessment of whether to run a thermostat (or at least a restrictor) or not because I've experienced it first hand. Keep in mind this was on a race car. Had a 340 in one race car, six cylinder radiator, no thermostat, electric water pump, electric fan, no shroud and the car always ran cool (170-180 tops) no matter what the outside temp was. Put that same complete engine into another race car that previously had a 340, original radiator with a 160 thermostat which also cooled just fine. The newly swapped 340 ran hot and would not cool. We put a gutted thermostat in and everything returned to normal. This was just my personal experience and I don't know enough to explain the difference. As they say, "results may vary".

 

[andyf]

Here is a Hot Rod article where I used my '65 Coronet for some testing: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/holley-hyperspark-install-tune/

It wasn't a cooling system article but if you look at the pictures you'll see the shroud and a 22 inch radiator. The engine makes about 600 hp and it never gets above 180 degrees. The key is the shroud. I also have a big 7 blade fan (clutch fan using the short clutch setup) and a good water pump. I'm using stock pulleys. With a big engine I'd say a shroud is mandatory. You should also focus on pumping as much water thru the radiator as possible. So that means faster pulley speed, a water pump with lots of vanes, etc. More water flow means more cooling on a street engine.

 

[Sonny Black]

always ran cool...'till I put hi output pump on....now over 80F, it will run warmer than B/4...
(older pic)...but same original radiator/shroud...
413 '63 ply.....

 

[glorydays]

always ran cool...'till I put hi output pump on....now over 80F, it will run warmer than B/4...
(older pic)...but same original radiator/shroud...
413 '63 ply.....
View attachment 655941

off topic but where do you find a zinc plated master cylinder cover? I want I want lol

 

[Sonny Black]

off topic but where do you find a zinc plated master cylinder cover? I want I want lol

original equipment....She is not restored....

she was on Velocity Channel last night.......Sticker Shock!

 

[6PKRTSE]

My red Charger always seems to run hot in major traffic. I may add an electric pusher fan for in front of the condenser for next summer being that it is a factory A/C car.

I had an aluminum rad custom built for my 70' Challenger with dual electric fans and -20 An fittings. Everything came out nice & is close/tight but all fit.