Cooling upgrades ?

[CtownChris]

Currently a 71 RR with 383 auto. 26in 2 core radiator. Minor leaks, but never gets over 190 deg running approx 1 hr on highway.

Have a newer 3 core 26in replacement. In for pressure and flow test right now. If all goes well it will replace my current unit and I will add a fan shroud, replace all hoses, clamps, and thermostat.

I am considering replaceing the water pump while I have the fan off and radiator out.

440 Source has one for about $100. Aluminum high flow unit.

Just got todays Summit cataloge and they list a Milodon High volume aluminum unit for Mopar 361-440 for $88.95.

Summit brand High flow cast iron, chrome plated for 80.95

So lets hear your thoughts should I replace the water pump while I'm at it and which one?

440 Source Alum/HI flowfor $100
Summit brand Cast iron/chrome high flow for $80.95
or Milodon Alum/HI flow for 88.95
or other?

I have to do some checking as to left or right lower hose type. Just to be sure it with the replacment radiator.

Or if it ain't broke don't fix it theory and leave it alone.

 

[69 Runner]

You don't need a high volume pump. I drove my 69 Bee to Columbus one year. It had a very nice 383 and the original (but recored) 22" radiator with a shroud and fan clutch. Had a 180 thermostat in it, and it never ran over 180. Ever. Used a plain pump.

But if you feel the need to waste that much money and possibly create a cooling problem because you're moving to much water through the system, feel free.

 

[CtownChris]

Standard flow units are cheaper.
No need for high flow unit for street use your saying.
I just want reliability.

 

[69 Runner]

Reliability. On that trip to Columbus I replaced the water pump on my Bee somewhere in Tennessee (ironic huh) Anyway that was in 89 or 90. When I sold the car in 98 it still had the same water pump in it.

Cool thing about that trip was rolling in to this little town off the main highway. There was actually a Chrysler dealership there so we pulled in and I went to parts where Jaba the Hut was draped over a stool. He says "Can I help ya?" I said "I need a water pump for a big block." He says "A big block whut?"

We found a parts store down the road and pulled in with the 383's cam going chuggida chuggida as always. The guys behind the counter perked up at the hot rod from out of town. They asked what I needed and I said I needed a water pump for my Bee. They pulled SEVEN off the shelf, took them out of the boxes, spread them out on the counter and said "pick the one you like." I changed it in the parking lot of the Imperial Motor Lodge where we stayed that night.

 

[Junky]

A few years ago I was having over heating problems with my 65 Coronet. Added the Milodon high volume pump, a fan clutch and fan and a shroud. Fixed that problem! On really hot days it never gets above 195° unless I do a lot of idling in traffic. Then it may get up to 200°. Running down the freeway, turning 3,200 RPS it will stay between 180 and 190. That high volume pump is working real good.

 

[Ramcharger413]

We used to always use a stock A/C water pump, becuase it had more blades (8 compared to 6) on the impeller for better flow. We also used to run 160 degree T-stats in the summer and 180's in the winter.
Kragens about $45.00 and up for stock

 

[696pack]

I think what everyone is trying to say here is that these systems when new had matched componants.

If you have a smaller radiator, it was matched to a "slower flow" pump. If you use a "faster flow" pump that was designed for a larger capacity radiator, you can move the coolant through the rad. too quickly. It has to be in the radiator long enough to dispell the heat out of the coolant.

 

[69 Runner]

Yes, the A/C pumps have more blades (8) on the impellers to move more water, but the 6 blade ones were used to take less horsepower.

Junky, I would lay odds on most, if not all, of your problem was solved by the shroud and fan clutch, especially if it was a thermal clutch.

Darryl is correct (and I should have elaborated in my first post) it IS possible to move the water through the radiator to fast for it to be cooled off. Also a lot of these new "super cooling" cores they are selling these days don't work well on these older cars. The fin count (number of fins per inch of core) is to high, and they don't pass enough air to cool properly. These cores are designed for newer cars which are all designed to run at HIGHER temperatures than our older ones.

 

[Don A]

Wow, I'm a new member on this forum and just learned something about Chry. water pumps.. Very cool.. Did small blocks also have two different impeller options?? Don A

 

[62MAX]

We used to always use a stock A/C water pump, becuase it had more blades (8 compared to 6) on the impeller for better flow. We also used to run 160 degree T-stats in the summer and 180's in the winter.
Kragens about $45.00 and up for stock

You got it backwards,the A/C pump has 6 blades,also circulates water slower keeping it in the radiator longer for additional cooling.

 

[67 coronet]

if there is no signs of any leak at the weep hole(bottom of the impeller shaft housing)i wouldnt change it.sounds like you are already getting good cooling,why take the chance.
you can move the water too quickly through the radiator,but if you have a good thermostat will not be a problem.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Actually the A/C water pump impellers are smaller in diameter because they turn faster with the smaller pulley. They can also increase max RPM HP because when used with the standard big pulley they take less HP to run. I don't think the style of the impeller (either cast or six bladed stamped steel) has anything to do with the flow output. It's more the diameter.