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Correct installation of green axle bearings.

I'm on my 2nd set of green's. The 1st set maybe went 1,000 miles or so and as mentioned, could be I had a set of the infamous bad ones. I've got another 1,000 on the 2nd set, so far so good. If I had a do-over, I'd a just left the oem bearings on the car they were fine; but a good bud who knows his chit about cars prodded me to get them when was swapping out the gears. I really thought on this when going thru the BS of installing the 2nd set.

Remember, that the "my buddy knows best rule", usually unfounded, and may not be applicable. But one must take into account, where "my buddy" acquired his specific information from and compare it the info you (the vehicle's owner) acquired to be able to make an accurate comparison. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
 
Remember, that the "my buddy knows best rule", usually unfounded, and may not be applicable. But one must take into account, where "my buddy" acquired his specific information from and compare it the info you (the vehicle's owner) acquired to be able to make an accurate comparison. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
Can't disagree; wasn't the 1st time I took advice I later regretted. lol
 
Those of us left, that worked daily in a Mopar dealership in the 1970-80 timeframe, remember the the worst part of the 8 3/4 tapered axle bearings were their poor grease sealing characteristics. Even with their double grease seal design, leakage and the resulting saturated brake shoes created safety issues with brake pulling and wheel lock up. Newer design green(sealed)bearings generally eliminates this. My 2 cents!
 
Those of us left, that worked daily in a Mopar dealership in the 1970-80 timeframe, remember the the worst part of the 8 3/4 tapered axle bearings were their poor grease sealing characteristics. Even with their double grease seal design, leakage and the resulting saturated brake shoes created safety issues with brake pulling and wheel lock up. Newer design green(sealed)bearings generally eliminates this. My 2 cents!
What prevents the outer race of the green bearing from spinning inside the axle tube. When I placed my axle in the tube and slid it in there was very little resistance. Seems to me that outer race has the potential to spin and possibly ruin my axle tubes.

20210105_171354.jpg 20210105_165232.jpg
 
The “o-ring”. Now if it just slid in without any resistance, I’d say the housing ends are worn. If new ends are in use, make sure the “o-ring” is on.
 
Now the snap ring around the bearing helps keep it from moving also.
 
Now the snap ring around the bearing helps keep it from moving also.
The snap ring is there. When I tightened the 5 hole retainer plate it snugged things up, but I just don't like the set-up.
I'm committed now. Everything is put together. If it fails I'll deal with it then.
 
It’s not gonna fail. Did you put in the inner seal? That will help keep the diff lube from going onto the green bearing.
 
It’s not gonna fail. Did you put in the inner seal? That will help keep the diff lube from going onto the green bearing.

"Its not going to fail"....Never say never....if/when the differential lubricant washes out the bearings "sealed in for life" grease, you'll have the opportunity to go back to the Timken Tapered axle bearings with the factory end play adjusters....and be glad you did.... just my opinion of course.....or green bearings vs Timken Tapered axle bearings discussion reiteration #10+.....
BOB RENTON
 
"Its not going to fail"....Never say never....if/when the differential lubricant washes out the bearings "sealed in for life" grease, you'll have the opportunity to go back to the Timken Tapered axle bearings with the factory end play adjusters....and be glad you did.... just my opinion of course.....or green bearings vs Timken Tapered axle bearings discussion reiteration #10+.....
BOB RENTON

Going to bed but last comment. I had the sure grip (I think that is what it is called) posi put in. I'm not a differential guy but I assume if I go back to the tapered bearings some sort of (insert?) will need to be put in between the axle ends???

20210104_150122.jpg
 
Yes, the “thrust block” would need to go into the sure grip. Also you’ll need the adjuster on the pass side axle.
 
There ya go Bob, quoting me saying never to say something won’t fail and then go on to say that the bearing seal will fail and wash out the sealed for life grease. So which is it?

Gee, you don’t think diff lube has ever got through a Timken, ruined the brakes? Seriously, the guy is using Green Bearings, quit trying to tell him or anyone else looking at this that Timken’s are the best way to go! You still running bias-ply tires? These cars came from the factory with them, so why run a radial? I could go on, but I won’t ruin this thread anymore, so to the OP, I apologize. If ya want to hear from me or have questions, just send me a pm.
 
I've bought a set of Yukon axles from Quick Performance, they send the lugs, bearings and retainers uninstalled with their standard replacement sets. I called to make sure I was getting everything right, and asked about the design improvements to the Green bearings. Was told pretty much what you here are saying, the retainer and O-ring secure the bearing housing sufficiently, but also was told the outer diameter of the housing is slightly undersize on purpose. With production tolerances of the 8 3/4's day, the bearing race in axle tube ends is rarely precisely aligned and the early RP-400 bearing design could get bound up and destroy itself. The MO-400 design solved that problem.

Dr. Diff's tech section spells this out as well:
Why Green Bearings? - Quality Body Shop Drivetrain (doctordiff.com)

I haven't installed my new axles yet, bought them as a preventative step as the laps build on my Belvedere at the strip.
 
I've bought a set of Yukon axles from Quick Performance, they send the lugs, bearings and retainers uninstalled with their standard replacement sets. I called to make sure I was getting everything right, and asked about the design improvements to the Green bearings. Was told pretty much what you here are saying, the retainer and O-ring secure the bearing housing sufficiently, but also was told the outer diameter of the housing is slightly undersize on purpose. With production tolerances of the 8 3/4's day, the bearing race in axle tube ends is rarely precisely aligned and the early RP-400 bearing design could get bound up and destroy itself. The MO-400 design solved that problem.

Dr. Diff's tech section spells this out as well:
Why Green Bearings? - Quality Body Shop Drivetrain (doctordiff.com)

I haven't installed my new axles yet, bought them as a preventative step as the laps build on my Belvedere at the strip.

In order to keep the on going love-hate relationship and much heated discussions about this subject alive, and to your point, its not too late to return the Green Bearings for the tried and true Timken Tapered axle bearings.....and say goodbye to your problems.....regardless of your intended end use.....
BOB RENTON
 
There ya go again.
 
Well...there ya go again...
 
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