Cutting Torque Converter Dust Shield

[66 Sat]

Can anyone foresee any problems with cutting the torque converter dust shield on a line across where the starter mounts?

Reason being I'm chasing down an oil leak that I think is coming from the oil filter plate (small block) but I'm double checking it's not the rear main. I've removed the dust shield but that requires removing the starter. Not a major operation but still a pain to get to the top bolt. Now the cover is off I need to reinstall the starter to check for the leak, then assuming it's not the rear main (it looks dry up there), pull the starter again to reinstall the cover and then reinstall the starter again. Pain in the butt.
I'm thinking if I cut the cover I can reinstall the small piece and the starter, and then a 2 minute job to reinstall the main piece of the shield at the end. It will also make future maintenance easier (e.g. checking torque converter bolts if suspected to be loose).
I notice some aftermarket shield have an inspection cover built in for this purpose.

My only concern is the cover bending in slightly and hitting the converter if it's not all in one piece.
Any thoughts?

 

[Kern Dog]

I have cut them. I have also run without them.
No gravel roads though!

 

[66Satellite47]

I'm pretty sure that the remaining bolts will secure it properly.

 

[dvw]

Just leave it off. It's got to come aprt to fix the leak anyway.
Doug

 

[matthon]

My stock 64 318 poly has the small built in inspection cover, the 318 I removed from my 62 had it as well, might have it somewhere.

What about welding a small tab to the inside of the starter side, or outside of the larger piece, to keep it from bending in towards the converter?

 

[66 Sat]

Just leave it off. It's got to come aprt to fix the leak anyway.
Doug

Not if the rear main isn't leaking (and it looks dry up there).
I  think the leak is from the oil filter mounting plate, especially as the leak slows or stops once the engine is fully warm. There is oil dripping off the 727 bellhousing, but the oil filter is adjacent to it (small block as I said).

 

[dvw]

If the mounting plate is leaking it'll be dripping down the side of the block and on the right side pan rail. We had a run of cracked small block cam plugs. I don't know how recent your build was. The plugs were Dorman.
Doug

 

[matthon]

Is this a poly 318?
If so, my understanding is the oil filter mounting plate gasket is notorious for leaking.
Fel-Pro 70522 between the plate and block is supposed to be the cure, I bought it but have yet to install.
Apparently some will come with a smaller round gasket, but it is not needed.

 

[66 Sat]

Yeah it's a poly (now a 354 cu in stroker).
The shield is cut and is still very rigid so no worries about it bending in.
I've just got to wrestle the starter back in and check that it's not the rear main.
If it's not I'll take the oil filter off and remove the plate.
I hope it is that, and not the rear main or the cam plug as suggested. I'd rather be driving the car than pulling the engine again.

 

[66 Sat]

Well it is 100% coming from the oil filter plate which I could have discovered without pulling the starter and dust shield but where would the fun be in that?
I wouldn't usually be happy with an oil leak but to see that oil running from the plate and dripping off the sump rail while the rear main remained dry brought joy to my heart.
I'll try to find some time tomorrow to start fixing it.

 

[dvw]

Is this a poly 318?
If so, my understanding is the oil filter mounting plate gasket is notorious for leaking.
Fel-Pro 70522 between the plate and block is supposed to be the cure, I bought it but have yet to install.
Apparently some will come with a smaller round gasket, but it is not needed.

View attachment 1382305

The cork gasket seals the 2 halves of the filter from each other. The dirty side from the clean side.
Doug

 

[matthon]

1962 Plymouth 318 oil leak

 

[66 Sat]

I've just finished putting it back on. Cleaned up the surfaces, drilled some extra holes in the plate for extra oiling, and put a thin smear of Ultra black around the sealing surface and torqued it to 30 lbs/ft. The gasket was new (new stroker build) so I've re-used it.

I'll try it tomorrow once the sealant is cured but I'm confident it won't leak. If it still does I think I'll get one of the billet ones from Summit.
I ended up drilling 4 more holes but now I've noticed the later ones only had 6 holes. Hope I haven't stuffed up.

 

[66 Sat]

Road tested the car this afternoon and it is fixed - dry as a bone for the first time in 2 months since I re-installed the engine.
It's amazing how satisfying it feels to have fixed it.