I respectfully disagree. Suppose a build sheet on a car showed steelies and dog dishes, but the dealer installed Rallyes and delivered it that way and the owner had the paperwork to prove it. Would the judges take off points for the Rallyes? A replacement block isn't what the car was built with, but it is what Ma Mopar decided to put in it after the original blew and so is more "correct" than a block with the VIN off another car some owner dropped in himself. Are you saying that a 70 Road Runner with a replacement block dated after the build, that could have been installed by the dealer as a warranty item, is worth less than the same car with a correct casting number and casting date a month or so before the build but with another car's VIN stamped on it? All other things being equal, are you saying the replacement block car would outscore the car with the correct date and casting but wrong VIN?
Yes, that is what I am saying.
OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer. This is Ma Mopar NOT the dealer. The car is judged on how it was delivered from the FACTORY, not the DEALER.
You are confused as to how OEM judging is done. When you enter judging no one is going to ask you for your broadcast sheet or any dealer documentation for "changes." If they look at anything they are going to look at your fender tag and if the venue is set up to judge the car according to it they will follow that.
Not all cars had a B/S left in them from the factory so you can't ask someone for something that may have never been available to the original owner of the car.
If the venue calls for following the fender tag they will expect the car to be as the tag indicates. However, not all options are shown on the tag that the car may have been delivered with. In fact, the fender tag from MOST plants really only identifies things critical to the body in white, paint, interior, etc. and not things like you used as an example such as wheels.
What I am getting at here is that if the car is loaded with options they will expect all of those options to be correct for the year and model of the car and you will be judged on that as well. This is why a car with less options actually has an advantage over a loaded car, as there is less to judge and take points "away" from the car.
Regardless of what wheels you have on your car or how it actually came from the factory, if the wheels you have were available for that car you will be judged the same weather they are ralleys or steelies as BOTH were available. No one is going to ask you for PROOF that your car was delivered from the factory with the options you have on your car. However, if you show up with a 1968 B body with a six way seat (that was not available until 1969) you certainly will get no consideration other than beig docked points because it is not the correct seat configuaration for that 68 model.
I don't believe I used an engine with a different V.I.N. as an example of more points, but if it has a V.I.N. it better be the right one for the car. If it had the wrong V.I.N. the car would lose points over an engine with a blank pad, but it would have to be date code correct for the time the car was built. A dealer installed engine, weather it is warranty or not with or without paperwork documentation means nothing other than it is the wrong engine with a date code PROVING that it could not possibly be the original engine for that car. The reason for the sliding scale that I outlined in the OEM judging allows for a factory oversight of NOT stamping the V.I.N. Which in the case of correct casting number (certain number of points) correct casting date (in relationship of the time the car was built) more points. You have to remember that the factory made mistakes AND that there are transitional years when it was hit or miss for the V.I.N. being stamped. Then you also have the years that the V.I.N. was never intended to be stamped.
I think where you are confused regarding the value of an engine that never had a V.I.N. stamped in it over a correct year engine from another car with a V.I.N. stamping. This comes from what people are willing to pay for one. As an example, an engine without a V.I.N. has a factory virgin pad with the factory correct broaching machine marks. All someone has to do is have the correct font stamp characters and they can make a reproduction engine that is undetectable. If you have another engine that came from a like type car but of course the V.I.N. is not correct for your car, in order to create a reproduction engine for your car requires grinding/milling these numbers off, then trying to recreate the broaching marks before you stamp it. THEREFORE, there are people out there willing to pay more money for a casting date correct V.I.N.less engine.
I hope this clears it up for you. If not, call me on the phone 928-277-4692 between 7:00-10:00 PM AZ. time and I will discuss it with you further BECAUSE I AM TIRED OF TYPING.:tongueflap:
