Deeper dive rust inspection red flags

[Bleep Bleep]

Brand new to seeking out a first classic. Have quickly learned a better practical appreciation around how high a priority the importance of accurately assessing body integrity is to the inspection and the cars value. I get it, for a driver always expect some rust, and there’s no substitute for time with field inspections. Before making field trips it makes sense to get a foundation first?

Specifically sussing out and differentiating expected minor rust issues from areas that can be much more costly to repair is what I’m trying to a deeper understanding of. Generally speaking relative to most b body cars 1) where are the most important areas to look for it? and 2) assess to what degree of rust is ‘ok’ or possibly a costly goner and over a newbie’s pay grade?

If there are recommended sources online or in print for education I’d appreciate the leads.

For ex. is basic frame surface rust self explanatory to recognize vs. being short of catastrophic of course, what does it look like when possibly structurally risky and costly. Any pictures from projects would be fantastic.

Thanks!!! for any feedback for a greenhorn enthusiast helping me get the right driver level muscle the first time.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

Ive used Corroseal rust converter in several other applications with really good success. I’ve read here using a rust converter on automotive rust is also a good way to mitigate progression. What has been the experience here as to what extent of damage you have success, or failure, using with automobile rust?

Thanks again as always!

 

[autoxcuda]

Buy a endoscope camera for $50+/- https://www.amazon.com/DEPSTECH-Waterproof-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B0CRDT2YYY

Then you can look inside the access hole of a frame or down a trunk to quarter turndown, under a rear seat, etc to look for welds and covered up rust repair.

 

[YY1]

It depends on the generation.

63-65 has one set of problem areas, like the cowl for one.

66/67 has another set, like around the rear wheel arch.

68-70 has it's own, like the rear window corners but also the wheel arch.

71-74, and we're back to the cowl and A pillars as well as the rear window corners and wheel arches.

VERY general.

 

[#41]

It's really too big of a question without writing a book. It's not just specific to the year and model of B body, but also where the car is from and how it is cared for and stored. In general, look everywhere water can pool: Floor pans, trunk pans, bottoms of body panels, rockers, window channels, and where panels have seams such as around the deck lid hood, and door panel perimeters. And always remember, if you can see rust bubbles, the problem is 10x as bad as what you can see.

As far rust converters and sealers, they are not all-around permanent fixes. They will slow corrosion to almost zero if the car is kept dry. In an environment where a car continues to see moisture, they only slow rust down. The more water exposure, the faster the rust will work it's way through again. The only way to stop rust entirely is to eliminate it by cutting it out or blasting it away to bare metal.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

Buy a endoscope camera for $50+/- https://www.amazon.com/DEPSTECH-Waterproof-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B0CRDT2YYY

Then you can look inside the access hole of a frame or down a trunk to quarter turndown, under a rear seat, etc to look for welds and covered up rust repair.

Thanks for the tip. I checked it out and appears easy to use and good resolution. Plus I haven’t bought anything from Amazon today. Lol

 

[Bleep Bleep]

It's really too big of a question without writing a book. It's not just specific to the year and model of B body, but also where the car is from and how it is cared for and stored. In general, look everywhere water can pool: Floor pans, trunk pans, bottoms of body panels, rockers, window channels, and where panels have seams such as around the deck lid hood, and door panel perimeters. And always remember, if you can see rust bubbles, the problem is 10x as bad as what you can see.

As far rust converters and sealers, they are not all-around permanent fixes. They will slow corrosion to almost zero if the car is kept dry. In an environment where a car continues to see moisture, they only slow rust down. The more water exposure, the faster the rust will work its way through again. The only way to stop rust entirely is to eliminate it by cutting it out or blasting it away to bare metal.

Yeah, I thought it may. Thanks for the information you could provide. Every point is useful at this stage.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

It depends on the generation.

63-65 has one set of problem areas, like the cowl for one.

66/67 has another set, like around the rear wheel arch.

68-70 has it's own, like the rear window corners but also the wheel arch.

71-74, and we're back to the cowl and A pillars as well as the rear window corners and wheel arches.

VERY general.

Thank you!

 

[Bleep Bleep]

Buy a endoscope camera for $50+/- https://www.amazon.com/DEPSTECH-Waterproof-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B0CRDT2YYY

Then you can look inside the access hole of a frame or down a trunk to quarter turndown, under a rear seat, etc to look for welds and covered up rust repair.

Is that a ‘67 auto crosser?

 

[TopBanana72]

I've noticed a place to look is on the front frame rails just below and behind where the upper control arm is. Particularly the rear mounting. Down on the frame rail you'll see a drain hole there that lets water into the inside of the frame rail. There are drain holes further back, but it still gets filled up with gack and rusts from the inside there. If you can pull large chunks of rust through a bottom hole in that area, your metal is getting thin.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

I've noticed a place to look is on the front frame rails just below and behind where the upper control arm is. Particularly the rear mounting. Down on the frame rail you'll see a drain hole there that lets water into the inside of the frame rail. There are drain holes further back, but it still gets filled up with gack and rusts from the inside there. If you can pull large chunks of rust through a bottom hole in that area, your metal is getting thin.

That’s good intel! Thanks and I’ll add it to the list.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

Buy a endoscope camera for $50+/- Amazon.com

Then you can look inside the access hole of a frame or down a trunk to quarter turndown, under a rear seat, etc to look for welds and covered up rust repair.

Got the side cameras. Definition is really good. Thanks for the lead autoxcuda!

 

[autoxcuda]

Got the side cameras. Definition is really good. Thanks for the lead autoxcuda!

You can even stick it down the fill tube to check for a bad gas tank/fuel.

A selfie stick for your phone camera is handy too. Many times a smartphone on a stick can get to places you can't get your hand to take pictures. Just give it time to focus. Check your pictures after you take them. Takes some practice.

 

[WileERobby]

I've always recommended a check-up by an experienced, knowledgeable professional... who can be just a regular guy that knows his stuff. Also, a magnet is a good friend to have.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

I've always recommended a check-up by an experienced, knowledgeable professional... who can be just a regular guy that knows his stuff. Also, a magnet is a good friend to have.

Thanks! Yep! I’ve a fellow B Body brother coming with me so I’m in good hands …and the magnet is also tagging’ along.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

You can even stick it down the fill tube to check for a bad gas tank/fuel.

A selfie stick for your phone camera is handy too. Many time a smartphone on a stick can get to places you can't get your hand to take pictures. Just give it time to focus. Check your pictures after you take them. Takes some practice.

Damn. Didn’t think of that either. Thanks man!