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Denso mini alternator wiring question

malex

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I'm installing a Denso mini alternator and have a question.

Can I jump the sensing terminal on the alternator to the main power post or does it have to be switched power. The instructions that I found on line says to connect to switched power but on other alternators I've always jumped it, including the Powermaster alternator I'm replacing this with.
What do you guys do, I'd prefer to not run a switched power wire to the alternator if I can jump it.

Can I jump terminal 2 to 3 ?
IMG_4561.GIF


IMG_1807.JPG
 
Damn,
I use the two terminals for the fields and the the threaded stud for power.
The green and blue wires are field but i'm usimg the '70 up charging system.
 
Malex, Is that front motor plate from Mancini? I like that much better than the elephant ears on my GTX.
Thanks
 
Damn,
I use the two terminals for the fields and the the threaded stud for power.
The green and blue wires are field but i'm usimg the '70 up charging system.

I have the green field wire right to the alternator but I never connected it with the other
Damn,
I use the two terminals for the fields and the the threaded stud for power.
The green and blue wires are field but i'm usimg the '70 up charging system.

Oops Silver. Got you back tracking now. Sorry. I just jumped the sensing terminal at the alt power stud and will leave it that way unless someone advises me otherwise.
 
Malex, Is that front motor plate from Mancini? I like that much better than the elephant ears on my GTX.
Thanks

Yes it is. This one came from Hughes but it’s made by AR Engineering. .375 thick.
580DD89C-90D6-4E02-A454-B07303F37A6A.jpeg

Motor sits nice and level with it. The previous steel mounts had the left side of the motor up more than the right side.
 
Putting the girl on a diet?
Hey Hoser, how are you. As a matter of fact yes. Still keeping the wipers, E-brake, horns, etc, fully street legal but I've lightened it up a fair bit. I was surprized but I did the calculations and with this plate and alt upgrade, another 16 lbs came out. That Powermaster alternator I was running was 13.5 lbs alone. It looks like I'm just about done, although, those SR radials are 21 lbs each and QA1 makes some nice aluminum strut rods..
 
I want to trade you cars....Your Car is sooo nice. I am jealous.
But Mike, yours is just as nice and it's faster!
1.40 60'. That's a wish for me..
 
But Mike, yours is just as nice and it's faster!
1.40 60'. That's a wish for me..
MALEX,
I am continued to be amazed at my combo cutting the 60 foots, and 10.19 ET weighing in at 3780 lbs on the start line. I have ordered the following to save some more weight but keeping the headlites, tail lites, horn, turn signals, roll up and down windows, etc to keep is 100% street legal:
1) Pin-on Fiberglass hood ( my current fiberglass hinged hood is HEAVY )
2) Pin-on Fiberglass deck lid (the steel deck lid is HEAVY)
3) Aluminum front and rear aluminum bumper brackets (for my already fiberglass bumpers)
4) Summit Poly Driver's and Passenger seats to replace my 40 lb (each) Recaro type current seats.
Plus, I think I can squeeze another 1/2 tenth out of my ET with my next outing adjusting my rear tire pressure and transbrake launch RPM.
That would take the 10.191 down to 10.141 and losing 140 lbs would knock off the last .141 to get it to my goal.
My Goal is 10.00 flat at around 133 (after the above weight savings),
I think I can achieve that.
PS: My car is NOT as nice as yours.....

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