Do you drop steering column to install brake pushrod? 67 belvedere

[TheRealDavid]

I'm replacing my master cylinder. So I almost have the nut loose that connects the pushrod to the brake pedal and it's a pain to get it loose. I purchased some cheapo ratcheting wrenches since there is almost no room down there. I couldn't fit a socket in there. I get the feeling that when it comes time to get the rod back in there I may not be able to get my hand in there to get the nut to bite again. Is there some trick to this, do you move the steering column? I'm just going to suck it up and remove it tomorrow and I guess I'll need tiny fingers to get it back on there.

Story time. Feeeeeeeling kinda dumb.
So I had the typical issue of having the annoying rubber grommet stuck in the old master, my master was so messed up that it came off and just left the piston assembly stuck to the pushrod.
I tried to pull the piston off the pushrod and after spraying some penetrant it actually came off. This is all to avoid removing the damn pushrod.
So I have the new master bench bled, a new dr diff grommet on the pushrod.
I'm about to install it and it pretty much sucks that the bolts want to sink back into the firewall and fall in, the pushrod doesn't want to slide in, **** starts to get heavy and I don't want to drop it so I try to pull it back and it also will not come out.
I pull harder and the damn piston pops out while still stuck to the pushrod since the new master only has a flimsy clip to old it in. sh**!
In all this pulling and pushing I may have bent or broken the brake light switch ughhh, I'll investigate this further tomorrow, hopefully I can bend it back in place if I did and maybe replace the switch if needed.

 

[Kern Dog]

I have learned that doing this work, it really helps to remove the seat. Unless you're thin and flexible, the driver's seat and steering wheel are obstacles that are a bummer to work around.

 

[R413]

Unbolt the column and rest it on the seat so you have room to access the nuts holding the master to the car.
It's easy:
4 screws on plastic cover
4 bolts in firewall plate
2 nuts and one bolt in column bracket to dash.

You remove the master cylinder with pushrod on it, then swap the push rod out of the car.

 

[Billccm]

I've done several master cylinders on B Body cars and just need the seat out. A U Joint with some masking tape helps get to the upper master nuts. Pushrod is a pinch nut and takes some patience.

 

[Ron H]

I've done several master cylinders on B Body cars and just need the seat out. A U Joint with some masking tape helps get to the upper master nuts. Pushrod is a pinch nut and takes some patience.

Yeah, there isn't much work I do under the dash anymore when I don't take the seats out; well two neck fusions helps. Lol, few times I thought about putting wing-nuts on the seat bolts having them out so many times.

 

[TheRealDavid]

OK cool, as always appreciate everyone's advice. @Kern Dog, @R413, @Billccm, @Ron H
I'm definitely a big dude, also sorta in shape and sorta fat. I lift as much as I eat haha. Going to put my eyeballs on dropping the column. I've been doing kinda ok with the seat there, I just think my hands might be too big. I'll update with my progress so some other goofball like myself can maybe save some trouble.

 

[Kern Dog]

I’ve never needed to lower the column to access the master cylinder fasteners.
Over the years, I have tried numerous combinations from manual brakes, vacuum boosted and hydroboost. I’ve been able to get to the hardware every time with the steering column in place.
You need some sockets, a variety of extensions, maybe some U-joint wobbly sockets and good lighting to see.

 

[R413]

Over the years I've never needed to remove the seat. Just drop the column down on the seat so I can work up there.

Get some ratcheting box wrenches to remove the bolt that goes through the pedal that retains the pushrod.

 

[TheRealDavid]

I’ve never needed to lower the column to access the massager cylinder fasteners.
Over the years, I have tried numerous combinations from manual brakes, vacuum boosted and hydroboost. I’ve been able to get to the hardware every time with the steering column in place.
You need some sockets, a variety of extensions, maybe some U-joint wobbly sockets and good lighting to see.

Definitely, my toolbox grows every day. The ratcheting spanner definitely has helped a bunch. Going to look at some swivel u joint sockets. and going to give it another try before lowering the column.

 

[hanks73340]

I just replaced my booster. Definitely remove the seat. Didn't need to lower my column. You will probably need 2-3 extensions with the swivel u joint socket for the socket to get at the upper right nut under the dash. It can be a little tedious but very doable. I was fortunate to do this 2 times in the past 6 weeks. 1st booster I received had a bad Diaphragm. My knees and back are still sore.

 

[TheRealDavid]

I had it out yesterday pretty much left only a few turns on the nut. I think I just threw my patience out the window yesterday and was ready to drive off these san Francisco hills thelma and louise style haha. I kinda see how I'll be able to get the nut through the pushrod again if I keep my *** calm and soon as the nut bites down the rest will be easy with the ratchet spanner. May be able to pull it off without removing the seat or moving the column.

Does that rubber sleeve serve a good purpose? it's still sorta ok, but pretty filthy.

I guess it maybe went over this previous clip that kept the piston from popping out. The screws are gone or I'd reuse it since it's way sturdier than the flimsy soda pop can clip that came with the new master.

also I think my brake light switch might be ok which is a damn relief.

 

[TheRealDavid]

Found this cool list of parts. I thought dr diff was the only one selling those dang grommets. Ram Man / Shop List / Master Cylinder Hardware
***update*** ignore this post, did some research in the forums. Do some research if you decide to do business there.

 

[R413]

For the pushrod retainer piece:
The ram man wants $18
Dr Diff want $3.

LOL

 

[R413]

I just replaced my booster. Definitely remove the seat. Didn't need to lower my column. You will probably need 2-3 extensions with the swivel u joint socket for the socket to get at the upper right nut under the dash. It can be a little tedious but very doable. I was fortunate to do this 2 times in the past 6 weeks. 1st booster I received had a bad Diaphragm. My knees and back are still sore.

A 1973 B-body is a different car than a 1967. There is way more room under the dash to work on the brakes.

 

[YY1]

I'll offer this again-

Get some Stanley brand "medium" depth sockets from wal-mart.

...and I second the "wobbly" extension.

 

[moparedtn]

I’ve never needed to lower the column to access the massager cylinder fasteners.

Darn, another feature ol' Fred ain't got - and I sorta wish he did!

 

[Kern Dog]

Old eyes and a cell phone with a screen that is too damned small. I never make mistakes that stupid when using the computer.

I did go back and edit that. Thank you for the call-out and the laugh.

 

[moparedtn]

Old eyes and a cell phone with a screen that is too damned small. I never make mistakes that stupid when using the computer.

View attachment 1706992

I did go back and edit that. Thank you for the call-out and the laugh.

You're a better man than me, Gunga Din. I've tried to "do" this forum on a cell phone (my giant Motorola).
That didn't go so well. I don't see how anyone does it....

 

[TheRealDavid]

I'll offer this again-

Get some Stanley brand "medium" depth sockets from wal-mart.

...and I second the "wobbly" extension.

I live in San Francisco, wal-mart has been cancelled. I guess I could go steal some from the nearest brick and mortar without consequence, I'll probably order some China Direct (amazon)

 

[TheRealDavid]

As of yesterday I'm officially the worlds fattest contortionist and managed to install the master cylinder without removing the seat or moving the column.

More problems today though. I'm having trouble around the flare nut, when I first tested the master it leaked a bunch when I pressed on the brake.

Today I tried reseating a couple times, but still didn't get it. After some research on the googles I may need to have the line perfectly set to align with the master. I looked at the flare and it seems fine. I used my phone like a borescope to take a look at the master. Going to try to set it again tomorrow or maybe tonight.