Dot 5 brake fluid help

[Ratroaster]

Yes that pit is very deep. Lol

Can I not just add dot 5 and keep bleeding the brakes, or should I dissembled the calipers and wash everything with denatured alcohol? Can I add the alcohol to the master and flush that within the system?

BeepBeep.
Dr. "E" had an answer to this question in a edition of Mopar Action awhile back. His
answer was basically to keep bleeding until all the old is gone. I've done this on 2 separate cars and have had no issues with them. In addition to protecting paint Dot 5 does not attach moisture like 3 and 4. An added plus if the car is not driven all the time.
RR

 

[65RoadRacer]

No offense, but it seems that you just want someone to tell you it's okay to do use DOT 5 without a complete flush (less work) and if that's the case, have at it.

But these are your brakes. Do you really want to play around with incompatible fluids? I was a high end parts supplier, a service writer, a body shop manager, a parts manager, a tech editor, and I've worked with guys who raced professionally. As a professional, I would never mix DOT 5 with DOT 3 or DOT 4 on a customer's car without completely flushing all components. I didn't want the liability (DOT 5.1 wasn't available back then). We sold DOT 5 to racers because it didn't cause problems when their rotors glowed red at the end of a high speed straight, it wasn't about paint damage. Some guys had used ATE blue and ATE gold (makes it easier to flush the system of old fluid using different colors) but wanted DOT 5 for the higher boiling point. When they switched to DOT 5, they bought new calipers and master cylinder, and flushed the lines. They were racers... and wanted their brakes 100% reliable.

It's up to you.... sorry to be a Debbie downer for you, but this is just information I have learned over the years.

 

[moparnation74]

No offense, but it seems that you just want someone to tell you it's okay to do use DOT 5 (less work) and if that's the case, have at it.

But these are your brakes. Do you really want to play around with incompatible fluids? I was a high end parts supplier, a service writer, a body shop manager, a parts manager, a tech editor, and I've worked with guys who raced professionally. As a professional, I would never mix DOT 5 with DOT 3 or DOT 4 on a customer's car without completely flushing all components. I didn't want the liability (DOT 5.1 wasn't available back then). We sold DOT 5 to racers because it didn't cause problems when their rotors glowed red at the end of a high speed straight, it wasn't about paint damage. Some guys had used ATE blue and ATE gold (makes it easier to flush the system of old fluid using different colors) but wanted DOT 5 for the higher boiling point. When they switched to DOT 5, they bought new calipers and master cylinder, and flushed the lines. They were racers... and wanted their brakes 100% reliable.

It's up to you.... sorry to be a Debbie downer for you, but this is just information I have learned over the years.

Couldn't agree more.......Do it right the first time.......

Lets say the whole system redo runs 1k and this is based on his OE restoration. When you tally the receipts(if your crazy enough to do so) and you have 80-100k invested......What percentage is 1k at that point?.....Cheap insurance to redo everything. So you dont lose the whole enchilada........

When it comes to safety items budget goes out the window.....We haven't even factored your life at this point.....

 

[PurpleBeeper]

What worries me is that all my brake items are used. I only let the dot3 drip out of all components. So there is definitely residue within all parts.

That's what the alcohol flush is for. The old saying "like dissolves like" applies here. DOT3 is "polar", DOT5 is "non-polar" and 92% isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol (ethanol) is sort of "1/2 way between polar and non-polar". DOT3 & DOT5 don't mix AT ALL, but these alcohols will mix with both. The alcohol will rinse out the DOT3 and DOT5 will rinse out the alcohol. Flush, flush, flush, flush....get some lunch....flush, flush, flush...oh yeah, and flush some more.

 

[Dipstick]

I disagree with that... they can work in the same system, but not together at the same time.

Disagree all you want, read the DOT spec. Tech Rick Ehrenberg has published many rebuttals to the "do not use together in the same system" myth.

 

[1969 beep beep]

Thanks everyone for the great feedback.

After spending a pile of money on my restoration the last thing I want is to take a short cut on the brake system.

I would like to use the Dot 5 just in case I ever get a leaky master and it ruins the paint on my fire wall.

The lines, master and rear wheel cylinders have all been drained but not flushed out. There is definitely a very small residue of dot 3 in these components. The calipers have also been drained, I am sure if I remove the pistons I will find more dot 3 in there.

If I add alcohol to the master can I not just use a vacuum bleeder and suck the alcohol out of each bleeder then add dot 5?

I think it would be best to take the calipers apart. What do I do with the hoses?

 

[R/T]

Before i install the new calipers and cylinders, i tape a funnel or a plastic baggy onto the front line and add alcohol letting it drain, then blow air tru, add more alcohol then blow it tru till dry!

 

[YY1]

I replaced my MC, wheel cylinders and calipers.

New stainless front lines.

I flushed my rear lines and prop valve. with brakeleen.

Quick, easy and thorough.

 

[R/T]

Stainless is tough material, could leak...

 

[dvw]

At worst if it really bothers you pop the end off the wheel cylinder and clean it out. I've swapped after using old wheel cylinders w/o issue. Just bleed until you get pure purple fluid. Bleed slowly it aerates easily. I've been using this stuff since the late 80's. Never an issue. I use it in all my hotrods, even my drag car. Every Mopar master cylinder with the spring wire retainer I've had will seep around the cap. Look how many nicely painted brake boosters and firewalls have peeling paint at shows. It only took me one time to realize it would never happen to me again.
Doug

 

[YY1]

at minimum I'd replace the MC, rebuild the rear cylinders and (if you know how) rebuild or replace the calipers.

 

[R/T]

Calipers are easy if you have a woman around to show you how to install the rubber...it happened to me, same with the Dishwasher door hinge cord!