Dropping engine temps

[Slap Stick]

Cars today are not the same. They are designed to run hotter for emissions. Transverse engines need an electric fan. If you look at new trucks, they have a Mechanical fan. But, we are all free to do what we want.

Cars today? Every car I've owned back to a 65 SF had a 192° stat in it.
The fact remains electric fans work if done correctly. One of the popular mods on Dakotas is the fans from a Ford Taurus, which seem to work well from what I have seen. I know they keep the Taurus cool, I have two of em.
When I replace the timing chain on my Dakota I may go with electric fans.
I had a 88 Volvo 744T that had an engine driven fan along with an electric.

 

[furyus]

Cars today? Every car I've owned back to a 65 SF had a 192° stat in it.
The fact remains electric fans work if done correctly. One of the popular mods on Dakotas is the fans from a Ford Taurus, which seem to work well from what I have seen. I know they keep the Taurus cool, I have two of em.
When I replace the timing chain on my Dakota I may go with electric fans.
I had a 88 Volvo 744T that had an engine driven fan along with an electric.

Yes, cars today do run hotter.
If you want to run an electric fan, do it.
So, let's talk cost, and complexity. I have a shroud, and a Mechanical fan. I have maybe $150 in the whole thing. The shroud was the most expensive part. So, if I went with an electric fan, I would need first, a really good one. Which aren't cheap, unless I went with a Ford Contour setup. This is where most go wrong. They buy one of the more affordable fans, but they don't pull enough cfm to cool the engine. Then they end up chasing the problem, not seeing the problem is with the brand new fan they just bought. Then I would need to get an alternator that will charge well with the fan running. Then I would need to upgrade my wiring because it isn't adequate for what options it had from the factory. And then I need a controller to turn them on, and off. For me, I will take a mechanical fan.

 

[Ron H]

Had some excessive heat gremlins when rebuilding the poly. It lost some iron with boring out, higher compression, etc. My ride had available options mine didn’t have that were on police vehicles and those having A/C, rare option back then. Seven blade fan, shroud, and top seal. Found those installing and nice improvement; but not completely. Further research found that coolant ratios and certain oils can retain heat. Followed this lead getting more improvement. Only thing I can think of would have included a clutch fan; but so far after 2 years, no need. T-stat’s (functioning properly) have little to do with excessive heat; they just open up sooner or later. Leaving it out isn’t a good idea as this move can overtake what the radiator is designed to do. Aftermarket shrouds can introduce another gremlin if not wary of the air flow, fan placement, and turbulence changes they can create. Electric fans? Some have had great success and others not so much.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Everyone talks about how the wiring must be upgraded, BS! All you need is a wiring harness rated for the amp draw of the fan and a switch to turn it on. This assumes the alternator is good for the combined amp draw of the total accessories.

 

[WileE]

The stock shroud and fan set up has always worked the best for me

Every time I see an overheating question, there's an electric fan involved. These cars ran fine with the stock setup for over 50 years. Then people re engineer it, and wonder why it doesn't work. Go back to a Mechanical fan, and a good shroud, not a giant block off plate that you have. If you stay with electric fans, you will need to upgrade your wiring.

[1] Remove toy fan
[2] Fit factory shroud & clutch fan
[3] Go out & celebrate...