You are correct; Praise Dyno is now Muscle Car Brakes. From what I can tell on old posts on the internet back in 2006 they had some sort of bankruptcy and became Muscle Car Brakes.
drum brake crash course, or refresher
- Thread starter Billccm
- Start date
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
I understand. I suppose it's also possible the incorrect cylinder part could be part of your original problem. BTW over the years I've had a few times when a brake job needed to "break in". In the old days arching the shoes did make a real difference.
You know, you may be correct. JimKueneman also suggested this awhile back. This might be my first discovery of redneck engineering.
According to my search on Centric parts numbers, the rear wheel cylinder bore is 15/16" and the front is 1.125".
Not worried as the brake in the box kit has new wheel cylinders, so if I go with this solution all should be well.
(JimKueneman will be happy he was right all along)
Ranger16
Well-Known Member
I have read Muscle Car Brakes claims and find them a bit, lets say, too good to be true.
"Ceramic Brake Shoes are less detrimental to the drums, require less pedal effort and less fade giving a more positive braking result in shorter stopping distances."
If they require less pedal effort, wouldn't they have to be more aggressive on the drums?
"Ceramic Brake Shoes are less detrimental to the drums, require less pedal effort and less fade giving a more positive braking result in shorter stopping distances."
If they require less pedal effort, wouldn't they have to be more aggressive on the drums?
66Satellite47
Well-Known Member
No doubt a quality, properly engineered kit would be very comforting. On my '65 Coronet drag car I went from the stock 10" drums to the extra wide (police & Hemi) 11" drums and then back to 10" (a little lighter). All the parts were readily available in those days. Today is a whole different story & the benefit of an experienced expert is sure valuable.
The mechanical engineer I work with says that ceramic will not generate the heat for the equivalent friction of a semi metallic material. Also ceramic to metal contact is a bit more gentle than semi metallic for the same given friction.
I called Muscle Car brakes last month, and although I did not get my questions answered, he did tell me that since regular shoes have a friction of 0.22 and the ceramic shoes have a friction of 'almost' 0.4, so for a given stop the pedal is less between the two materials.
My mechanical engineer colleague gave me this link for brake pad ratings by the good ol'US DOT.
http://faculty.ccbcmd.edu/~smacadof/DOTPadCodes.htm
http://faculty.ccbcmd.edu/~smacadof/DOTPadCodes.htm
Ranger16
Well-Known Member
Very interesting. Wish I knew this before I replaced the shoes after I bought the car in 12/14.
Has anyone used these shoes and can give a personal comparison?
Has anyone used these shoes and can give a personal comparison?
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Well, I pulled the front drums off tonight. The wheel cylinder is a front application type as the rubber brake hose enters at a 45 degree angle. What's odd is that the bleeder is perpendicular and not angled? Anyhow, it probably is some sort of super cheap off shore $3.99 wheel cylinder.
What I noticed tonight is that the drivers side brake shoes look 'normal'. By that I mean the top edges of the shoe are slightly worn and the corners are worn. It looks like a brake shoe should after some bedding in and usage. The passenger side shoe looks like it just came out of the box? It really has no wear whatsoever when compared to the opposite side. When I got the car it pulled badly to the left. I adjusted the shoes and the pull seemed to be to the right, but oh so slightly? Anyhow, it looks to me as if the left side front is doing more braking than the right side.
I will probably have to replace the drivers side brake line from the clip mount to the tee as it looks as if someone previously rounded off the head. I have new rubber hoses that will go on if I keep the drums (or go back to the parts store if I do disc).
I've got to be at the brake shop before they open tomorrow with the drums. I'll let you know the verdict and what I decide to do next.
Thanks for all of the replies and advice. Take care, Bill
I have the Praise Dyno ceramic brakes on mine - not sure if they are representative of the current line of MuscleCar Brake shoes or not. My impressions are that they take a bit of use and heat to start working. My first couple stops setting out on a drive are sort of weak. But after that they seem to work pretty well. I have the manual adjustment only police brakes and I have to be careful to adjust them equally - but once done, if I hit the pedal pretty firmly they haul the car down pretty quickly and straight. I can see that even after years, the very ends of my linings still aren't fully contacting the drums so that shoe arcing business would really be the key to getting the most out of them right away.
SlinktRR
Well-Known Member
I like drum brakes when they are adjusted right. I have big 11" drums all round on my 70rr and they are very stout, I drive those in nyc traffic and they perform on the first squeezes. Repeated hard stops is where those drums don't do well... So high speed stop and go is something I avoid. I am trying out a disc conversion on my 67 gtx project that had 10" drums in the back and 11" in front. I had to piece together parts for that 10" drum brake job as I couldn't find a complete kit with parking brake levers and struts and all that. Done now. Next step is changing the front spindles and running brake lines for my new 15/16" mid 70s spec mopar master cylinder.
Well we can put this long thread to bed.
My friend pointed out immediately a fairly deep bevel on one drum right at the outer opening edge. He then measured the drums and basically I am 0.011 out of spec to be turned.
Dr Diff.....here I come!
My friend pointed out immediately a fairly deep bevel on one drum right at the outer opening edge. He then measured the drums and basically I am 0.011 out of spec to be turned.
Dr Diff.....here I come!
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