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Edelbrock heads

Sjd556

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anyone using Edelbrock e street heads, what kind of rocker arms are you using? Is it acceptable to use a stock style, or do you have to change to an adjustable style. I bought a set for my 383 and they fit and look great, but I’m not sure if I need to toss in the coin for new rocker arms and pushrods(on a budget here). Thanks!
 
half inch lift
hyd cam
even up to 550 with really moderate spring pressure
stock rockers work just fine
lash caps help
double check your spring pressure
and I hope you are running a cam without a lot of spring requirements
BVVC if your cam has a reduced base circle- like a regrind
so what cam and specs and spring specs?
do the dykem swipe test on the top of your valve stems - swipe should not be off the edge
if you are not past the lifter stage of your build use AMC/Magnum lifters and hollow pushrods to provide some extra oil to the rocker cup and pushrod tip (both for lube and cooling)
for iron rockers contact Rocker arm specialists in Redding area CAlif
 
Motor is entirely together with the exception of pushrods and rocker arms . The camshaft is pretty conservative Comp .488/.491. The Edelbrock heads Came assembled so it’s whatever springs were on them. I couldn’t exactly tell you what they are.. i’d rather stick with the stock rocker arm but if I need to change them and there’s not much of a choice ..
 
Motor is entirely together with the exception of pushrods and rocker arms . The camshaft is pretty conservative Comp .488/.491. The Edelbrock heads Came assembled so it’s whatever springs were on them. I couldn’t exactly tell you what they are.. i’d rather stick with the stock rocker arm but if I need to change them and there’s not much of a choice ..
I raced the stock rockers for a long time when the budget demanded it. Eventually pushed a pushrod through the top of one but they are awesome for stock and if it were me on a budget I'd run em with the thought of getting better ones eventually
 
so the so called extreme energy 274? should be mild enough to work with stock rockers
eyeball the rocker motion- the rocker should tilt up closed about as much as it tilts down open
do the dykem check
if it tips down open more add a thin lash cap which keeps you from wearing a grove in the rocker tips
what badbrad just said
 
The prob I’m having is with figment on the Edelbrock heads, I know on stock heads would be fine with that cam Selection.. I called tech support and they said I should go with adjustable rockers and 3/8 pushrods. So changing gears here does anybody recommend an adjustable style rocker arm? Mancini racing offers and 1.6 ratio for under $600 that is manufactured by Harland sharp that I have my eye on..
 
I have a set of e-streets and plan to use stock rockers. I've fitted them on the heads and they clear everything just fine. I've "heard" 3/8" pushrods can have some clearance issues (need minor clearancing on heads).
 
the specs on Edelbrocks website call for a 3/8 pushrod, idk if I would want to use a lesser size. I have a set of stock style rocker arms that I put on to see if they would fit, I see they do, just not sure if they're supposed to be used with the head...maybe I'm overthinking all of this..id rather be able to uses stock stuff(much cheaper)..
 
The prob I’m having is with figment on the Edelbrock heads, I know on stock heads would be fine with that cam Selection.. I called tech support and they said I should go with adjustable rockers and 3/8 pushrods. So changing gears here does anybody recommend an adjustable style rocker arm? Mancini racing offers and 1.6 ratio for under $600 that is manufactured by Harland sharp that I have my eye on..
Wrong. 3/8" pushrods are overkill for that setup and will require grinding on the heads for clearance. Stock valvetrain works absolutely fine with that cam, I use it myself with their RPM head the thing you have to watch is pushrod length. Measure carefully to be sure you get the proper lifter pre-load, you may need custom pushrods from Smith bros or Manton...maybe, maybe not. Yes adjustable rockers are better but not needed for that cam on a Chrysler R/B regardless of what Comp says, unless you're chasing every last pony...and if you were that probably wouldn't be the cam you'd want to run anyway. As Wyrmrider states (he's been around the block with these things) you're good up to .500" lift and can push stock rockers past that (many guys do). The springs on those heads are fine if they are using the same as the RPM heads, I used comp's recommended 911-16 because I had them at the time.
 
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so why do the heads come with 4 studs for the rocker arms? I'm totally happy with that news, it will save a bunch of money and will get the car up and going WAY faster, so thats a relief. just not sure if the studs need to be used or if the hold down bolts for the rocker shafts will work in place of the 4 supplied studs
 
I would go ahead and use their studs, it makes it a little easier to remove/install the shafts with all the rockers dangling off them...my (11-year-old) RPM heads came with two studs per head. And I do apologize if you already know this, but for the benefit of others that may read this and don't know...make darn sure your rocker shafts are installed with the oil holes pointing down, and toward the exhaust side of the heads. Also look at those rockers real good to make sure you have them positioned properly in pairs, each pair having a left and right rocker. They should look like they're kinda leaning into each other, if that makes sense..
 
so would you use the factory spacer with the studs as well? or just the small arp spacer supplied with the heads? as for orientation, I got that down. I guess it merely comes down to a hardware issue of what to use and what not to use...
 
so would you use the factory spacer with the studs as well? or just the small arp spacer supplied with the heads? as for orientation, I got that down. I guess it merely comes down to a hardware issue of what to use and what not to use...
Use whatever setup locates the rockers where you want them. All the stock stuff is usually fine by itself, but I added a couple of thin shim spacers to help keep my rockers centered on the valve tips, and to eliminate most of the unwanted side-to-side movement.
 
okay cool. looks like all ill be needing then is a set of retainers and bolts for the bb rocker shafts, I think the ones I currently have are for small block? the retainers don't fit over the arp studs and the end bolts won't catch the thread at all
 
good advice above
so maybe you have the comp
Magnum 274H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft
Lift .488"/.491"
Duration 274°/296°
RPM Range 1000-7000
either the Magnum or the Extreme energy- actually 3/8 pushrods do help but you are way past that decision point this time around
"Mancini racing offers and 1.6 ratio for under $600 that is manufactured by Harland sharp that I have my eye on..."
If these are roller tip rockers then you will also need B3's shaft relocation kit- read and understand all 4 parts
http://www.b3racingengines.com/techpages/MoparRockerArmGeometry1.asp
so add a couple of hundred dollars to the cost of the rockers
Iron rockers would work just fine but you do not need them either with these chevy profile acceleration level cams and that lift
any questions you could pm Yellow Rose or post back here
IDK if edelbrock bottom taps their heads so screw in a test bolt without the shaft in each hole and measure where it tightens up/ interferes with the tap thread taper then do use that length bolt with a hard washer under the head
IDK if I would bottom tap the heads on the motor but I'd risk it if a measurement with the depth extension on your dial calipers showed a lot of depth below the bolt tighten up point which would allow a much longer bolt- did that make sense?
In a perfect world your bolt would thread all the way to the bottom hand tight
Edelbrock heads may take different length bolts than stock heads in any case-so check-- any comments guys-
 
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/camshaft-comparison-testing/ USES STOCK ROCKERS
Advertised Duration 275/287, Lift .525/.525, Mopar, Big Block, XE275HL don't know where you came up with the old 274 but oh well
hope the below XE is the one OP has not the magnum in the previous post did not the Edlebrock heads come with retainers?
be thorough- check the rocker to retainer at valve closed and check stem seal to retainer at full lift

you can stop reading here- following is more of a rant

gotta luv on line catalogs look up
will the real comp 274 please stand up Search on Chrysler 440- more than just a rocker ratio difference WTF
looks like two profiles with different ratio rockers
obviously for different motors--
big spread on the exhaust obviously left over from poor flowing exhaust heads and iron manifolds
good heads and headers do not need 12 degrees more exhaust
and more exhaust lift is hardly ever needed
first the "Magnum" from above even older profile than the XE274
Magnum 274H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft
Lift .488"/.491"
Duration 274°/296° NOTE 22 degrees extra on the exhaust
RPM Range 1000-7000


COMP Cams Xtreme Energy 274H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft Only Lift .488"/.491" Duration 274°/286° RPM Range 1800-60
others that came up on the search overwhelming
COMP Cams Xtreme Energy XE274H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft Only Lift: .490" /.490" Duration: 274°/286° RPM Range: 1800-6000

COMP Cams Xtreme Energy XE274H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft Only Lift .506"/.506" Duration 274/286 RPM Range 2000-6000


COMP Cams Xtreme Energy 274H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft Only Lift: .519" /.523" Duration: 274°/286° RPM Range: 1800-6000

COMP Cams Xtreme Energy 274H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft Only Lift: .520" /.523" Duration: 274°/286° RPM Range: 1800-6000


COMP Cams Xtreme Energy 274H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft Only Lift: .552" /.555" Duration: 274°/286° RPM Range: 1800-6000
COMP Cams Xtreme Energy 274H Hydraulic Flat Tapper Camshaft Only Lift .562"/.565" Duration 274°/286° RPM Range 2000-6000






 
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:D
 
The prob I’m having is with figment on the Edelbrock heads, I know on stock heads would be fine with that cam Selection.. I called tech support and they said I should go with adjustable rockers and 3/8 pushrods. So changing gears here does anybody recommend an adjustable style rocker arm? Mancini racing offers and 1.6 ratio for under $600 that is manufactured by Harland sharp that I have my eye on..

Ductile-Iron from Crane / Isky. Can easily be found for under $300 used, they're virtually indestructible, I picked up a set for $275 shipped brand-new a few years ago. I wanted the most durable option for a street car.

Good pushrods are absolutely essential, I have to mention Steward Performance. If you haven't heard of Steward Performance, they're typically found in the NHRA circuit. I run Stewards' hardened 3/8" .145 wall pushrods in my 470 low-deck (Edelbrock Heads), they come standard with a 210* radius end.

You would be fine with a 5/16" .120 wall pushrod for sure, Steward offers these, not sure who else does.

It's really the last place on an engine build you want to save money
.
 
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