No ****. Thats why you have a fuseable link. It protects everything including a shorted alternator. My point all along is the system is fused including the alternator. You said the alternator is not fused. Thats where you were wrong.
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My friend... just try it... start the engine, disconect the batt and jump out the alt stud to ground... you will see. I think is the only way to convince yourself.
If my car wasn't 6000 miles from me and dissasembled I would make the vid to show you.
Depending on the alt capacity, the engine will stall in a couple of seconds or a bit more... or the jumper wire will heat more or less, but the fuse link will do NOTHING
If my car wasn't 6000 miles from me and dissasembled I would make the vid to show you.
Depending on the alt capacity, the engine will stall in a couple of seconds or a bit more... or the jumper wire will heat more or less, but the fuse link will do NOTHING
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I know what it will do. Nothing without a battery. Again I do not see any relevancy to this argument. You said the alternator is not fused and you are wrong. Thats the point.
Canadian1968
Well-Known Member
And what he is saying is, WITH OUT the battery connected the alternator is NOT fused. The alternator ALONE is not fused
And I keep my word on this... alt ( on pre 75 full load amp system wirings ) is not fused, but the batt.
No ****. Without the battery its an open circuit.
right... and even with the batt conected, STILL the alt is not fused, but the batt which is the ONLY source by its load capacity able to keep alive the short able to blow the fuse link.
Note: with engine running and no batt all circuits are in working order and hot, but STILL the fuse link will do NOTHING on a short. Because WON'T GET ANY LOAD running throught the fuse link.
Except if the short is on the batt post terminal floating around ( and still maybe won't get enough time or load to blow before stall the engine )
Why are we even talking about running with a disconnected battery? My point is ground the alternator, any wiring, or a shorted ammeter to the cluster and the fuse link will blow as it is intended to do.
ONCE AGAIN, BEACUSE JUST THE BATT IS ABLE TO FEED IT!!! AND IS WHERE THE FUSE LINK IS...
AGAIN THATS WHAT IT IS SUPPOSED TO DO. THE WORKING SYSTEM . THE FUSE LINK IS PROTECTING FROM MORE DAMAGE.
BUT NOT A DAMAGE BEING SOURCED FROM THE ALT ITSELF! not even an INTERNAL alt short.
I don't think I have more to add on this... this is a ping pong game, untill somebody gets the courage to make the experiment. From now I think will reply just about the fans deal.
I'm not taking this on a bad mood buddy ;). I understand this is MAYBE a diff point of view. But you can try what I said and maybe you will get why I'm trying to explain.
I don't think I have more to add on this... this is a ping pong game, untill somebody gets the courage to make the experiment. From now I think will reply just about the fans deal.
I'm not taking this on a bad mood buddy ;). I understand this is MAYBE a diff point of view. But you can try what I said and maybe you will get why I'm trying to explain.
I know what you are saying but you just do not get what I am saying. So I will leave it at this. The fuseable link is a safety device. Its purpose is to disconnect from the source of power in the event of a short to ground or excess power draw.
and the load of the power source with capacity to blow the fuse link comes from? LOL
Canadian1968
Well-Known Member
From the start. Your statement. Alternator is FUSED and goes into a buss system. WRONG
The buss/fuse box is direct off the battery. WRONG
The BATTERY IS NOT powering the car!!!! plain and simple the alternator is.
Known fact the Battery. Thats not the argument. Argument is that the link is there and it protects from further damage weather its a shorted to ground wire, alternator or anything else.
My reference is to how cars have been wired for the last 25 to 30 plus years. Showing you they do not source other items off the alternator stud. Not old cars. Unless you got a Tesla the engine is powering the car. [lol]
no, you are saying the alt is fused ( by itself ) which is not, not even the ign system by itself but just by the fuse link on batt line which protects ALL the car, not the alt or the ign system itself LOL, like the dedicated fuses on the fuse box. The fuse link is protecting all the car from the BATT power. Just like the Racing cut off power switches do in emergency case ( adding the ign circuit cut off feature to save from the alt/reg feedback if it happens ).
we are not talking about last 25-30 years but the cars on this discussion LOL
we are not talking about last 25-30 years but the cars on this discussion LOL
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Canadian1968
Well-Known Member
We're not talking about a car 25-30 years old are we?
We are talking about OLD cars.
Your "reference" is what got you messed up. You still fail to acknowledge and agree with the principal of the original electrical system.
The ICE is propelling the car. The alternator is still powering the electronics in order for that ICE to function. And now they don't work without each other . But now we're getting crazy. !
Nacho you are starting to get it right. I did say the alternator was protected by a fuse link. I did not say it was solely on that link. You just made it sound like there was no link. So at least now you admit the alternator was on a fuseable link. My point on the newer cars and individual fuse links off a buss or PDC was how new design and technology has changed. I think we are done.
I do not argue with the principals of the electronics applied here. Reference to new car and truck wiring was only to give ideas on how old cars should be rewired. My main point is anyone is a hack wiring higher amp draw components off a alternator stud. Especially with newer high amperage alternators running on old wiring, undersized wiring, ammeters and bulkheads. Its just plain wrong. There are right ways to do things. If you own or run a shop and do this I hope you have good liability insurance.
No I still say the alternator IS NOT protected by the fuse link… by itself neither as a source or as a power device. As mentioned, if the batt doesn’t exist nothing of the charging or ign system is fused protected, like for example, parking lights are fused still without a batt and engine running… the fuse on fuse box will blow but engine will keep running… because the fuse will blow faster, before being able to stall the engine than a fuse link won’t.
On an alt short and depending of the kind of short, the engine will stall before the fuse link blows. Except if the short persist still with engine off, which in that case, the fuse link will protect from THE BATT power/load
about bigger alts, wiring, bulkhead and ammeter I already have posted what is posible to do and not still keeping the original intended design, with the EXISTANT amp on many threads... and why. Won’t get this to the already highjacked enough thread LOL
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