Electrical Idiot Needs Mopar-Specific Expert

[71PlymouthDave]

Last year I had a Ron Francis wiring kit installed in my 1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring by a highly recommended electrician, but since then I have had nothing but what I think are ignition-related problems. I have had him and my "gremlin mechanic" look it over several times, but each time I get it back it runs for a while and eventually refuses to start again soon thereafter. It seems to have very low ignition voltage while cranking (the battery is OK since I have it on a maintainer). I know that Mopars are a different animal from Chevys, but since I am a complete electrical idiot I can't diagnose or repair it myself (I don't want to burn it down). I need a Mopar specialist in the South LA/North Orange County, CA area. Any recommendations? Thanks!

 

[Sixpactogo]

The first thing I would look at is the ECU. I would test the case ground with an digital Ohm meter between Neg post and the ECU case. You need a good ground there because without it, the ECU will heat up and open a transister inside killing your spark control until it cools down. This scenario has caused a great many problems. I always verify that ground and also the voltage regulator ground making sure I have a reading of no more that .5 (1/2 ohms)
Not to say that is the only cause but it is where I always start.

 

[jimbosride]

Mopar specialist in Ron Francis wiring ???

Just pull it and go back to the factory wiring

EvansWiring.com : Product Catalog

 

[kiwigtx]

I have had him and my "gremlin mechanic" look it over several times, but each time I get it back it runs for a while and eventually refuses to start again soon thereafter. It seems to have very low ignition voltage while cranking (the battery is OK since I have it on a maintainer). I know that Mopars are a different animal from Chevys, but since I am a complete electrical idiot I can't diagnose or repair it myself (I don't want to burn it down).

Sounds like a screw-up in the ignition circuit - ballast resistor wiring back to the column loom etc.

Factory wiring will get the problem sorted out.....unless this is a race car only, then stay with what you have.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Yeah, because you never hear of ignition issues on Mopars with stock wiring..... Not a Ron Francis fan by any stretch of the imagination but ripping out the new harness isn't the solution I would choose... And if I were to choose that route I sure wouldn't use Evens stuff... I've used two of their harnesses & both had issues.... If you want OE reproduction M&H is a much better choice...

What ignition system are you running? Stock Points? Mopar Electronic? Mallory/Accel/Jacobs/MSD?

 

[eldubb440]

and you may as well hit the welcome wagon...... cause you ain't going anywhere else

 

[451Mopar]

Post some photos of the wiring so we get an idea of the workmanship quality.
It could be many things. You need to test/troubleshoot carefully.

 

[Durandal25]

Last year I had a Ron Francis wiring kit installed in my 1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring by a highly recommended electrician, but since then I have had nothing but what I think are ignition-related problems. I have had him and my "gremlin mechanic" look it over several times, but each time I get it back it runs for a while and eventually refuses to start again soon thereafter. It seems to have very low ignition voltage while cranking (the battery is OK since I have it on a maintainer). I know that Mopars are a different animal from Chevys, but since I am a complete electrical idiot I can't diagnose or repair it myself (I don't want to burn it down). I need a Mopar specialist in the South LA/North Orange County, CA area. Any recommendations? Thanks!

Ground. It's almost always a weak ground. I have two for the 67 Coronet. My 69 Bee was terrible for this same thing.

 

[jimbosride]

Yeah, because you never hear of ignition issues on Mopars with stock wiring..... Not a Ron Francis fan by any stretch of the imagination but ripping out the new harness isn't the solution I would choose... And if I were to choose that route I sure wouldn't use Evens stuff... I've used two of their harnesses & both had issues.... If you want OE reproduction M&H is a much better choice...

What ignition system are you running? Stock Points? Mopar Electronic? Mallory/Accel/Jacobs/MSD?

Have you talked to Evens wiring about your issues .... I put there wiring in 2 cars from headlights to tail lights and engine harness .... also tach wiring .... never had one issue .....

M&H.....
We do not sell any of our Chrysler, Dodge or Plymouth Wiring Harnesses direct; they must be ordered through our exclusive distributor Year One Inc. Simply click on the "Order" button below to be taken to the Year One Inc. website for pricing and ordering information.

 

[Durandal25]

Yeah, because you never hear of ignition issues on Mopars with stock wiring..... Not a Ron Francis fan by any stretch of the imagination but ripping out the new harness isn't the solution I would choose... And if I were to choose that route I sure wouldn't use Evens stuff... I've used two of their harnesses & both had issues.... If you want OE reproduction M&H is a much better choice...

What ignition system are you running? Stock Points? Mopar Electronic? Mallory/Accel/Jacobs/MSD?

I also use M&H. and they are awesome. They simply reproduce the correct harness. The Ground I added from the block the firewall just made it better.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Have you talked to Evens wiring about your issues .... I put there wiring in 2 cars from headlights to tail lights and engine harness .... also tach wiring .... never had one issue .....

M&H.....
We do not sell any of our Chrysler, Dodge or Plymouth Wiring Harnesses direct; they must be ordered through our exclusive distributor Year One Inc. Simply click on the "Order" button below to be taken to the Year One Inc. website for pricing and ordering information.

Yes, Year One is one of their resellers, Classic is another... Neither is on my preferred vendor list... But I choose quality over my preference cause I don't like doing stuff twice...

I talked with the vendor who sold me the Evans harnesses... He offered to replace the harnesses but I don't care to have any more of Evans products....

 

[SlinktRR]

I really like M&H harnesses, very well made and look factory-ish. They look too new and fancy to be factory but the colors line up with the wiring diagrams.

For the ignition problem the forum will need A LOT more info to provide any information. Pictures of the engine bay would help.

 

[robfxrs]

Hey guys, I wish to chime in on this,
I believe sixpactogo nailed it. Now, Im a newbie mopar guy, but on electronic stuff, in general, I think I know some.
so, in addition to sixpactogo basis on ground at ecu, I would run another wire from the ground battery, to the ecu mount. nice clean connections , independent ground.
I am a fan of adding ground wires on stuff. it cant hurt it.
on other situations I have seen like this, this remedy usually solves it.
just opinion
good luck

 

[hunt2elk]

Yes, Year One is one of their resellers, Classic is another... Neither is on my preferred vendor list... But I choose quality over my preference cause I don't like doing stuff twice...

I talked with the vendor who sold me the Evans harnesses... He offered to replace the harnesses but I don't care to have any more of Evans products....

Jamie at Mega Parts has been selling M&H harness' for awhile now. I much prefer to deal with him than Year One, and I can't stand Classic.

 

[71PlymouthDave]

Yeah, because you never hear of ignition issues on Mopars with stock wiring..... Not a Ron Francis fan by any stretch of the imagination but ripping out the new harness isn't the solution I would choose... And if I were to choose that route I sure wouldn't use Evens stuff... I've used two of their harnesses & both had issues.... If you want OE reproduction M&H is a much better choice...

What ignition system are you running? Stock Points? Mopar Electronic? Mallory/Accel/Jacobs/MSD?

Running Mopar Electronic Ignition (Genuine Mopar conversion from points kit).

Yeah, I thought I'd better update the wiring since I'd had a couple of smoke-outs that melted some under-dash stuff. Back when I bought the Ron Francis kit, they were the only aftermarket company using heavy fire-resistant insulation, and I liked the flexible fuse panel. Little did I know how over my head I would end up. Now I need to find someone local who can help me out.

 

[71PlymouthDave]

The first thing I would look at is the ECU. I would test the case ground with an digital Ohm meter between Neg post and the ECU case. You need a good ground there because without it, the ECU will heat up and open a transister inside killing your spark control until it cools down. This scenario has caused a great many problems. I always verify that ground and also the voltage regulator ground making sure I have a reading of no more that .5 (1/2 ohms)
Not to say that is the only cause but it is where I always start.

When you say "ECU" you're talking about the orange box (not the voltage regulator), right? Which of the three posts should I check? Like I said, I'm really bad at electrical/electronics.

 

[71PlymouthDave]

Have you talked to Evens wiring about your issues .... I put there wiring in 2 cars from headlights to tail lights and engine harness .... also tach wiring .... never had one issue .....

M&H.....
We do not sell any of our Chrysler, Dodge or Plymouth Wiring Harnesses direct; they must be ordered through our exclusive distributor Year One Inc. Simply click on the "Order" button below to be taken to the Year One Inc. website for pricing and ordering information.

Evans is in PA, and I'm in CA - I need someone to be able to put their hands on it since I don't really trust myself to not continue to screw this up (which is why I'm asking for a local referral).

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Since your in the South LA/North Orange County, CA area.

@autoxcuda​

autoxcuda is Steve Wall, he's the president of Chrysler Performance West (CPW) the big Mopar club in LA/SoCal

 

[Sixpactogo]

When you say "ECU" you're talking about the orange box (not the voltage regulator), right? Which of the three posts should I check? Like I said, I'm really bad at electrical/electronics.

Yes. The orange box case. Not the posts. You need to test the resistance in Ohms between the orange box itself and negative post of the battery. If your reading is higher than .5 (1/2 ohm), you need to either scrape some paint off of the firewall around the mounting screws or add some star washers that will dig into the paint giving you a better ground. If you don't have a digital Ohm meter, get one. This is not rocket science. Ohms law is very simple. Being a collector car owner pretty much requires some hands-on knowledge of how things work. You can do this. We are here to help you. Just know there are no stupid questions. Everyone on this site was where you are at one time or another. You will be proud of yourself once you get to the point of knowing you figured it out.

 

[autoxcuda]

Since your in the South LA/North Orange County, CA area.

@autoxcuda​

autoxcuda is Steve Wall, he's the president of Chrysler Performance West (CPW) the big Mopar club in LA/SoCal

Try Gasser's Garage in Lomita.

Those cars converted to aftermarket ignitions can be a real pain to diagnose. And some circuits are undersized.

Meaning lots of labor dollars to diagnose, which I'm sure you've already paid out. For the money you've got wrapped up in it, you probably could have bought an M&H repro wiring. But of course that still needs to be installed correctly.

And if it got a aftermarket wiring, most times things were really messed up or someone that swapped it was not knowledgeable enough to fix it. Which means it's got additional issues like the OP has now.